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HVAC allows folks to live in the damndest places. Never been there but the one's that have tell me I've got it worse with the humidity here. I had a tshirt from the French quarter, "it's not the heat-it's the stupidity".

I'll have to get a picture. Give me an hour, not near the car at the moment.

I haven't a clue. I plugged the hose under the TPS circled in yellow to get my car to run after removing egr crap. I don't remember it having anything to do with the distributor or canister? Seems like one of the two hoses off the egr went there and the other to that thermal vacuum switch on the warming plate. It's been a long time and I've forgotten, sorry.

I had to plug that hose when I deleted the egr stuff so I'm gonna say that's it. Vacuum diagram

Payback for Buddy's flatulence throughout the night. He eats so fast his food isn't digested enough until about 1a.m then he lets them rip. He used to sleep opposite of me, his head at my feet and the fart cannon at my head. Covid-19 to dog poots.... Now that's my flatulence written out.

Look for the vertical line molded in the cap. That's #1. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/correction.jpg

I just connected with some of my best friends via text message. We are going to our favorite Mexican restaurant Friday night and eat, I mean get falling down drunk and eat nachos and salsa, to celebrate our vaccination and the positive effects it has made on our lives. Getting back to normal is a mind bending thing for me. I'm so happy! (hopefully it'll last).

I have mine at full advance and it runs fine. By that I mean loosened the bolt and turned it all the way clockwise. Fyi, I'm not any kind of trained mechanic just seat of the pants and what sounds good to my ears. You seem curious to figure it out which is good in my opinion.

Has the ring around the bottom or top of the seal somehow come loose or slid out of it's seat? I think that cheap compressor would work. Hook the bottom hooks on the lowest ring of the spring and the upper on the retainer. Use a small telescoping magnet to catch the valve retainer clips. I think it could be done with a big socket on the retainer and rubber hammer, magnet to catch the clips. I've read that before. Good luck with it Alex.

I'm sorry for not reading up the thread but something that I did once was put the valve cover gasket on upside down. There's a difference at the front and if you get it wrong it'll leave a little gap on the thermostat housing side. Sorry again I don't know about the hissing, could be a snake up in there?

I forgot that you all switch to a higher price "summer blend" to reduce smog. That's a run around for more profit I think, charge higher for cranberry sauce at Thanksgiving kind off thing. I'm glad I won't live a whole longer. I love life but it's getting really hard to stay positive these days. I'm getting screwed every which a way it seems and our leaders don't seem to care. Reverse immigration? like a reverse mortgage.

My first and last electric contraption, I hope.

Did? Still do. Although only half the seasoning packet at my age. Z parts are expensive!

That's one of the many free FSM downloads this forum has.

Just topped off at $2.75 a gallon. Most others are at $2.85 now. Six 2 sided pumps all shut down but one. They're learning not to be greedy finally. No gas and nobody stops for beer or milk.

Another thing I'm not sure has been mentioned is our straight 6 L motors are pretty much identical to the older Mercedes and BMW six cylinder motors. Surely there's more mechanics besides the Porsche one you've used in the past. As the L motors were used in north America from 1970 to 1984 there has to be a mechanic in Panama that is familiar with the motor.

The only reason I see removing the head is if you plan on taking it to a machine shop and have the work done. You could drive it to your mechanic and have them replace the seal or seals without removing the head. If you plan to give it a try yourself the valve spring tool would be much cheaper for head ON replacement. The one I have for head OFF is expensive and harder to find. Question for the gang as I'm not sure if one of these would work or not. I bought it for something I cannot remember what though but I've pretty much only worked on Zs since the late 80s. I know the cam style copressor is the easiest but wouldn't one of these $20 compressors work for one seal?

I think that would look pretty cool on your gold, right?, car. You should photoshop it the way you want it and look at a a bunch. That's what I did, even though I'm shitty at photoshop it still helped me decide.

Looks like your's came with the bolts for the rear 3 piece. I ended up buying stainless locally and buffing them to a nice shine. futofab.com didn't include the bolts when I bought mine. Maybe they do now?

I ordered the black ones from futofab.com but they got back ordered. Lucky for me I was waiting on the MSA black Friday sale to get black Rewinds when I found out the bumpers weren't available. I decided to go with the gunmetal grey with the polished lip and the chrome bumpers. I'm glad it worked out that way. Too much chrome and glass that all mix in together to give it a nice look.

If I remember right, the wire under the seat is the one that finally made the light go off so I'll plug the G/Y back and see what happens. Thanks

What does it warn me of?

Closer...

Mine's a '77 with a ZX distributor so no help with the last two questions and a maybe on #1 at the brakes. My green/yellow stripe goes to the proportion valve down low. Mine is unhooked and I'm almost positive it was done so the brake light inside the gauge would go off. There was another wire under the passenger's seat I unhooked to finally get it to quit burning. I check the fluid all the time and rarely drive it but when I do it has good braking for that old of a car. Not a big fan of caution (idiot) lights on the dash. Fuel, temp and oil pressure is all I care about. 👍