siteunseen

Get some boxes and zip-lock baggies to put everything in, label what it is with a Sharpie. Take pictures of everything, you won't regret it. This is the best book by far to get if your like me and need to read about the cars before rebuilding. It covers mainly the drivetrain, engine and transmission. Here's the thread on "waking the sleeping beast" that Carl Beck wrote up. It's for a 240 but worth a read as a lot of it overlaps with the 280. Post #8... The book you need to read about 3 times before you ever even start disassembly. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

You bought vales and guides already, as seen in the pictures you posted. You replaced the Far 311 cam with a street able Schneider. What all was changed with the new cam? There is a lot more to that than just swapping out the actual cam. With your new parts already bought and paid for just go ahead and take the leap. Have the head rebuilt, new valve seals that will not interfere with your cam's lobes. Make sure all valves are cut the same and seating properly. Don't get in hurry finding a cylinder head rebuilder. Find one that is recommended by mechanics or even better some machine shops. You've got time now moving to Spain and getting settled. Make a plan and budget. Don't waste time or money.

These guys will help you with your car, they love to help. .https://forums.hybridz.org/search/?q=petronix&quick=1 We are more original equipment hence the name "CLASSICZCARS"

Nothing is sacred anymore.

Here's the basic grounds that should be cleaned and shined up. It doesn't take too long, an hour at the most, and really helped my EFI 280. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Those are good. Battery and alternator seem fine. I do believe you could have starter issues.

My gauge reads just like yours, needle lines up on the right side of the M but like everyone else's it isn't too hot. It's the gauge. Those laser temperature guns work good but if you don't have one a meat thermometer worked for me. This is idling in my garage, thermostat open and flowing coolant. I see your choke light is off. Glad you got that fixed.

I would have the starter tested for sure. It's easy to get off on these cars and free testing at chain stores. Also clean and tightening the wires really good could help. Might be a bad ground or the spade connector on the solenoid needs cleaning and crimping down a little tighter. I did that backwards . Check the wiring 1st then pull the starter. Sounds like a shitty remanufactured starter to me. I've learned to have them tested before I buy. Starters, alternators etcetera. You should check the voltage on the battery when it won't crank, possibly low of water/acid or a failing battery. Do a 24 hour 2 amp charge and make sure the fluid is topped off. Leave the covers off while charging and put an old rag or towel around the acid/water holes. Should show around 14 volts while running, 13 at least. Cold weather is a battery killer.

What is it that welders put an oven to heat up before welding? My Dad's welder guy had a refrigerator and an oven in his shop when I was a kid, WTH? I asked, welding rods in the fridge and the oven was to bring up the temp on some kind of metal before he started working on it. That's something I never learned, like playing guitars, that I regret. Practice, practice, practice...

It's about as difficult as changing out the spark plugs. Loosen the compressor on the bracket, push it towards the motor. Loosen the alternator on the bracket, push it towards the motor. Take the belts off. Take the belts to an auto parts store. They will measure the length and get you replacements. Put the new ones on and use something like a broom handle to pry the alternator and a/c compressor away from from the motor to tighten. I get them tight enough that they will twist about a quarter turn. Check the tightness after you've driven your car some. It's easy.

This is about the best tutorial I've ever seen. It's a 280 which is a little more difficult than pulling the head on a 240.

I remember that. Some of the guys said they don't have it or use one.

There's a simple way to check that metal filter up front but they are only $20 so couldn't hurt replacing it anyway. Try pinching the fuel hose before the metal fuel filter by the charcoal cannister on the passenger's side. It should be as hard as a rock on the bottom hose going into the filter and just as stiff up top coming out of the filter.

Yes, simple questions as always. Why are we on choke cables now?

You might something in poly. Like these. https://zcardepot.com/products/steering-rack-mount-bushing-kit-poly-240z-260z-280z?variant=19275362828401&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bshopping&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAtNK8BhBBEiwA8wVt92l0s3I1MktXfZGgSWcjj_S1zKE6Vbl0uzlyb8xJfixg1XhPOWw-yhoC0toQAvD_BwE

This is easy to do if you already have a gauge spliced in. I put about 4ft of 5/16 hose between the fitting and the gauge. Unscrewed the gauge from the fitting, put the hose on the fitting with a good clamp, shoved the gauge into the other end of the hose and put on another EFI clamp. Zip tied it to driver's wiper arm and drove around for a day or two. Put the PSI numbers on here.

These are important. Pull them apart and shine the connections up, maybe some dialectic grease too. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/runningrich/bullets.jpg

I "hoovered" that picture off the internet from the comfort of my recliner so I don't have a clue. The release button sticks up farther than my '89 325's did if I remember right from 20 years ago. Seems like it was flush with the housing?

My '72 has those for the female lock like this picture. It's a 69,000 something or another VIN.

And where the EGR tube connects to the intake manifold. Mine came loose and rotted a hole in the aluminum.

I will award you a big chocolate chip cookie for all the hard work we've read about and seen pictures of, turd looking valve cover deduction = 1 chocolate chip. There's a quart of milk waiting at the finish line.

Here's something you might find useful. I think they're synthetic though but a good read when you have time.

Try pinching the fuel hose before the metal fuel filter by the charcoal cannister on the passenger's side. It should be as hard as a rock on the bottom hose going into the filter and just as stiff up top coming out of the filter. Easy way to check that filter. I had a clogged up filter and it would run for a few minutes then after the sediment fell back down it would run again but only for a few minutes. Good luck finding your gremlin.

Mine is a Jefferson county, Birmingham plate, and I'm in Etowah County. They do it by population for the 1st. 2nd 3rd or 4th counties are 1,2,3 and 4 then it goes to alphabetic. So mine is #1 Jefferson county but I live in #31 county. Our only requirement is an original tag made by a prisoner in between rapes.

You must keep a current tag in the car? That's kind of silly if you ask me, redundant. Georgia has some high DMV taxes, all those roads...sheesh! The tags are 5 years right? after inspection? Sweet hell Alabama.