siteunseen

Would you sale it? I'm only about 45 minutes from H'ville and wouldn't mind the ride if shipping would be a hassle or a ton of $$'s. Thanks

I'm going through mine ('77) now- new outer tie rods and boots- and it doesn't have any zerks. Can't break that big screw looking thing loose. I've read to apply some type of graphite or teflon spray on the slide parts before the boots go on. I sure wish I had the grease fittings though. Maybe install them? Drilling and tapping that cast iron would be tough plus filings getting in the old grease. I need to read FSM section.

Do you have a drivers side front bumper rubber piece?

I'm putting the master set on my '77. And I'm taking my time as suggested, replacing a few a weekend, starting with the front while my motor's out. I can't speak of the ride yet but the old rubber was rotten so it'll have to be better. Best deal I found was $165 to my door from http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/es-7-18102.html

I had some gasket material, that dark gray stuff, that I laid over the port side of the head and tapped out an impression with a small rubber hammer. Then with an Exacto razor knife cut it out and and taped it to the intake and saw the difference. I have read some info off hybridz about the restriction being inside the plentum of the intake. The square exhaust ports matched up perfect with MSA's 6 to 1 header. I don't have the bigger throttle body or anything other than the header. I was thinking (big mistake) that just rounding off the edges or "flowing" would help get a little smoother air flow coming in the head but maybe I'll just leave it be. I'll read what I can find out there. Thanks for your replys.

My intake holes are a little off from my cylinder head. Is it worth the time grinding it out or just leave it? Maybe try and make the air flow better by rounding off those edges. It's a bare intake so no worries about shavings getting into things. Suggestions please.

I read hours of internet stuff on oil pumps and never got the yes or no I wanted. A lot of people say M111 is the one to have for more oil pressure. I e-mailed a service tech at Melling and his reply to the difference in M111 & M152 was "The pumps use the same gerotor sets @1.570 thickness. They use different bypass springs. The M152 has a slightly higher bypass pressure. I bought the M152 from Advance for $45 after promo code.

I had a ZX one time. It seemed like Lincoln Continental compared to what I have now. Very comfortable.

The air flow meter needle could be stuck in the wide open position. I had that problem before. Take the cover off and give it a look. Also you might look at the TPS right below the AFM, small black cover that can be poped off, that needle arm could be sticking too.

Wasted on your schooling. These are grown men, show some respect and type words.

I'm sure we're talking about the same thing, the tapered pin has threads on top with a hole for a cotter pin. I had to wedge the fork tool in between to get the nut loose. I will replace both sides now because I have the whole rack and pinion mechanisim off the car for urethane bushing swap out. Thank You BeerManPete. I have a question for a BeerMan and hope I don't get in trouble asking on this forum. I usally drink canned beer in the summer and switch to bottles in the colder months. Well for some reason the bottled beer has started to give me a horrible headache so I've gone back to cans and no longer get the headache (unless I drink too many). Have you ever had this problem? Maybe if I poured it in a mug? Bottled taste so much better to me. It's the King of Beers Lite that I drink. Thanks for your experience.

The bolt/stud coming out of the passenger side tie rod turns freely. The other one doesn't. Would that mean it's gone bad? turning like that? Probably should replace both sides at the same time? They're not very exspensive from rockauto.com. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hey there. A free Z, that's great. A lot of parts I've bought from local auto stores. Here are a few online places that are very helpful. Have fun! http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html, http://www.jdmgallery.com/information/s30-manuals/s30/, http://www.motorsportauto.com/sale/, http://www.blackdragonauto.com/, http://www.zcarsource.com/, http://www.courtesyparts.com/240z-260z-280z-parts-s30-1970-1978-c-7724.html,

I started thinking about the 30 year race motor builder saying that the journals should be polished the way the crank turns and went back and did it again. I found a pretty simple way and am happy with the results. Also went to walmart and got a rifle cleaning kit for the oil holes. Worked great. Now all I need is the block back from machinest. I will have to find something to do until then (that's meant to be a joke as there's hundreds of things to do). Maybe I'll watch that football game everybody's talking about.

Thanks Guys. I'm definitely going with a turbo pump.

Using a screwdriver to turn the oil pump before the first start up would run oil through my motor right? And that would be good right? Does it turn clockwise coming in from the distributor hole? If someone decided to put the turbo oil pump on would they need to get a turbo oil pan that would be deeper? Then probably have to get a longer pick up tube to reach all of the pan? Sorry to be such a pest but can't decide on what oil pump. Thanks for any advice.

I'm refreshing mine, new rings and bearings, so I like what y'all are saying. You guys are great! Thank You.

Read this on Connecticut Z Car Club "Because my old oil pump was so worn I went ahead and replaced it with a new L-series turbo model from Black Dragon Auto. The one sold by MSA and the Nissan dealer were too pricey for me, the Black Dragon model was only $69. The model Black Dragon sent me is an ITM brand 057-1057. It’s nicely machined aluminum and appears physically identical to the Nissan pump. I opened the case up and it does have the 40mm long rotor, so this is the high volume turbo model. When I started my engine it idled at 20psi and goes up to 40psi at 2000rpm, and 60psi at 3000 and up…creating constant high pressure. This is different from the older pumps I’ve had which only added 10psi per 1000rpm. ITM interestingly lists two other models for the 280ZX turbo manual trans and turbo auto trans engines but I can’t find those pumps for sale online. Their website lists the 057-1057 for the cars below, I suspect this supercedes those older L-series models". I think that's the one for me. Sorry Mr. Monroe but I agree with steve91tt, more is better for my car.

Everything I've read says the '83 ZX Turbo oil pump has a bigger rotor/blade than the others and flows more oil. "How to Rebuild L Series" by Tom Monroe says "it will put more of a load on the distributor and oil pump drive gear and is not something to add to your engine unless specificly needed". Maybe someone will tell us if more is better or not.

I cut a piece of 600 the length of the journals then taped it together, few drops of oil too, then wrapped small rope around the paper like people do a stick when making a fire (like in Blue's picture). Back and forth very lightly then went back with 800. They were all in good shape to start with I just feel better now.

You get a feel of when to move the rope around. It's a dance like all the other stuff that makes them fun.

I forgot about my "How to Rebuild" by Tom Monroe. He tells how. Thanks anyway.

Is this something I could do or just pay somebody at the machine shop? I wouldn't do a hack job because I'm in no hurry. Anybody's advice please.

I decided to rebuild mine after seeing all that carbon on the inside and grease every where on the outside. But it's project to keep me busy through the winter and not a car that I have to drive a lot. Also am replacing all the rubber bushings associated with the suspension and cleaning up the engine bay. Rings and a timing chain kit with a new oil pump and new bearings and the gaskets, everything's going to be about $800 including the suspension kit. Hopefully it will run again and already looks much better. Decisions, decisions.

I just put mine in high gear and rolled it to turn the motor. Bad idea when I asked the good folks on here because of what Zforce says about tension on the chain. Someone showed me that one can be bought from Autozone for $15. So I bought one and use it all the time now. It's alot quicker for the hot valve adjustment. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Actron-10-Amps-remote-starter-trigger-switch-with-heavy-duty-neoprene-leads-medium-current-clips-open-to-1-2-in-rubber-boots-and-ergonomic-handle/_/N-25eo?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=remote+starter&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=476887_0_0_