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Wow! Maybe I'll put these on my Camry.

A car with a known history behind it would sell quick right here. I'm with Wade, stay away from ebay & craigslist and show it to the masses on this forum. We gossip more than a beauty shop full of women.

About 13K on that hood.

If you decide to go with MSA, great company!!, use your classiczcars.com Member ID, 17476 for a club discount. I can't remember if it ask for that specifically or like a coupon code. It's not much but it'll offset their shipping charges a little and every little bit helps spend on something better you want.

Something else people do to theses old cars to prevent sediment/rust from entering the fuel pump. They're cheap and it takes about 10 minutes. Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation Lots of good info on there Tech Tips

Call your local Nissan dealer with this part number, they might can get them or buy them off e-bay. 240Z 260z 280z Fusible Link Covers Two Genuine Nissan | eBay

Call your local Nissan dealer with this part number, they might can get them or buy them off e-bay. 240Z 260z 280z Fusible Link Covers Two Genuine Nissan | eBay

When I saw that the engine bay wasn't the same color as the car.

At first I thought it looked to be a re-paint, but it looks now like the engine has been out and the engine bay has been sprayed with something like undercoating maybe? Find your color here 70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery Then look for a silver sticker in front of the radiator for the color number.

I've always thought that to be a "mechanical wives tell" myself. Hasn't happened to me but I write what's on my mind.

I had a thought...look out! What about the old hot start problem? Would the OE hardline hold heat too much? Just asking because you guys live in completely different heat zones. Down here in the Deep South, mine is cool to the touch while flowing fuel and heats up very little on shut down. i know I won't win this but just thinking out loud. Cheers!!

It looks a lot easier, of course. He's got a gift for figuring stuff out.

My whole '77 was an experiment for me but not fun, high anxiety until I put 500 miles on it, then super fun!

That's too easy! How'd you mount your FPR?

Sucky brakes = front end crash?

The aluminium rail stock has a 1/2" hole already through it so a 3/8" NPT tap will thread the 2 ends. 1/4" NPT tap threads the 6 injector holes, can't remember drill bit size though. And the brass hose barbs I used were 5/16 x 1/4 NPT times 6, and 5/16 x 3/8 NPT times 2. Make sure and use High Temp thread sealer. I at first used something red, maybe Loc-Tite and after a few drives it started to drip on my heat shield. It was only the excess red sealer on the outside of the rail, no fuel ever leaked but after I found that Permatex stuff that was opaque colored I took it all back apart and resealed all the threads then removed the heat shields and repainted the horizontal one. Looks today like it did then, no drips, no nothing. Very happy with how it turned out and it really does simplify all that mess. I can take the rail with all 6 injectors still connected off in 10 minutes.

Congratulations! It's nice to hear it from you too.

I ran a low pressure fuel line from the '78 or newer FPR, only 1 inlet & 1 out; $30 from rockauto.com, to the return hardline without trimming or moving it. The fuel rail was fairly easy and $50 bucks is all it cost but I already had the 1/4" tap and borrowed a drill press. Oh yeah the cost: $20 for the aluminium fuel rail stock of ebay, Raw Dash 6 Fuel Rail Extrusion Sold by The Foot RMR 019 | eBay, I bought 2 feet. The 3/8" tap for the ends cost $10 from a local plumbing supply house. All the fittings, 1/2" for the ends and 5/16" for the 6 injectors plus a tube of high temp thread sealant from Permatex was the other $20. Most important thing was making sure everything stays level in the drill press when drilling the holes and your bench vise when your tapping the threads. I'll try and find the measurments for the holes. Post #21, Thanks again to Willoughby, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-systems-s30/43897-make-fuel-rail.html I didn't put in a barb for the CSV, ran a "T" off the back end, left to the FPR and right to the CSV. Find somebody with taps & drill bits.

Well after a year without red gas I guess i should delete that filter and give it to my guitar picking friend, I don't stay lucky too long. Maybe I'll buy myself a guit-fiddle.

I cleaned my gas tank and lined it with Red Kote, that's the reason for that filter, to look for red gas. I guess I've been lucky with those glass filters because I've had them on everything from boats to lawnmowers and have never had a leak but I take care as to not offer any metal to glass contact, Zip-ties. As for the pressure rating I've never seen anything on the packages and that one has been dry since I first cranked it on August 8th, '12. I'm overly cautious inside my garage because I live above it and am constantly checking for leaks and smelling for them too. That glass is thick and according to my buddy that plays they make a good guitar slide for 1/4 of the price at a music shop.

Thanks Fastwoman for the info and part #s. I was initially trying this out to see if it's what was wrong with my stumble at lower RPMs so I ran it into the cabin to play with while driving, $5 from a local Radio Shack. Well it was exactly my problem! Now I will buy one like you say and permanently mount it inline with the coolant temp sensor wires above the intake. I've got that 240 paid off and can now finish my 280 with new interior and a sound system so the potentiometer knob I have in my console volume hole has got to go. Well after re-reading everything I'm still wired up like Blue's so CW=more fuel, CCW=less fuel. From Tech Tip " Note: the center and shorted pins on the pot are connected to the sensor and the other pin is connected to the ECU if you want to add more fuel by turning the pot clockwise."

Here you go. I've got more too. It's not pretty but it works.

I did solider those together so do think I'm right in more volume = more fuel? I know all I have to do is read the plugs after a few drives but I'm lazy and would rather type in the A/C than pull the plugs in my hot arse garage.

Walmart had one so I bought them both, G3 & G2. G3 is 3/8's G2 is 5/16's. My 280 tank has a bigger supply so the G3 is it but on the 240 it's 5/16's and the G2 fit like a mother's hug, lovingly tight!

I apologize madkaw, it's my FI '77. By what I read in the Tech Tip is to turn the pot clockwise for more fuel, think of a volume knob on your stereo, so lefty loosey would turn my fuel supply/volume down? I'm about to go for a rip and see. Wade it's Twurk not Twerk, google "Ying Yang Twins Thug Walkin'". Songs 3, 11 & 12.