siteunseen

Could be 517, Beige Metallic.

That's a nice car and not too rusty for being as old as it is. You probably should replace all the rubber associated with the suspension and steering components before undercoating. Clean all the electrical connections you can, the engine bay looks untouched so they're most likely corroded. Here's a helpful link, Tech Tips What's the color code number by the radiator? Looks like a yellow color. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/

It looks like the wheel at the top of the web page under the facebook connect button, the very top where your notifications and username is and log out buttons.

I wondered what that was! So you can't call somebody a ****head?

Ghost is right, I can hardly see it but it does look good. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/images/dto_garage/users/15388/1383.jpg

On your brake light issue when you unplug the bullet connector does the light go off? Mine did and I just left it unplugged, I think it's a safety switch for low fluid that goes bad. Just make sure the reservoirs are full when you pop the hood every now and then.

On my '77 the brake light stayed on too. There's a wire under the master cylinders I unplugged and now it stays off until I pull up the E brake. Read post #14, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/29292-brake-light-wont-go-off.html.

I think you have a car that's like my dog. Different everyday, but I love it.

Neato mosquito! I found my local dealer from 1971 on this thread, Datsun/ AMC dealership. I remember a joke too. Guy takes his foreign car in for repair and the mechanic says "you want it Datsoon?"

When I was trying to figure out my mid range stumble I thought it was the TPS at first, turned out to be the coolant temp tweak fixed it. If you pop the cover off and watch those vanes while working the throttle rod you can see if its making contact when it should and coming off the contacts when it should. I pointed a camera at my tach and put the monitor on the roof when I did mine. Maybe you could get someone to sit in your car and hold it at the right RPM's? I cleaned the contact points with a fingernail file, the metal kind as to not git gritty crap inside there like sandpaper kind.

That's right at the range the the Throttle Position Switch comes off the contacts. Look at this, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html Uhm, I was a little off but not too bad. "In addition, the ECU also senses when the driver removes foot from accelerator and activates a "coasting mode" aka "Fuel Cut Mode". When the RPM is above 3200rpm and the TPS is in idle position, the ECU cuts off fuel until the RPM's drop below 2800." Maybe your TPS needs adjusting? Somebody on here recently washed their engine bay and got the thing wet and had similar problems.

I think it's the M30 engine that is similar to the Z's L Series engine, straight 6 with overhead cam and timing chain. I had a '89 325is that I drove into pieces, best car I've ever owned, sold it in 2010 with over 300K on it. It had a cast iron block like the Z's have. Nissan parts are so much cheaper than BMW's it makes owning one or more a lot easier to do, for me anyway. You'll see that a lot of the folks on here also have Beamers. That car is sort of a mystery to me, I heard it was in Atlanta but someone said otherwise. Gray with white stripes and flared fenders to accommodate those wheels, beautiful. It's a 240Z, find you one!

I was told 12/08/09, but the guy was drunk.

I used the thread type anti seize on my intake and exhaust gaskets against the head. I wish I had used it on the front cover portion of my head gasket to let the front cover slide in better.

That's true on all pop ups that want you click No Thanks, always click the X in the top right corner and usually you won't get it again, at least in my experiences.

You can only wonder why there's a '77 FPR on there? My 1st Z I bought for dirt cheap because it would only idle. Popped the black cover off the AFM and the vane was stuck at wide open throttle from sitting I suppose. Have you taken that cover off and checked it out? Here's a Tech Tip from Atlantic Z's that shows what I'm talking about. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

I recently lost my dash lights, but brought them back to life plus brighter park and head lights. http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf But hopefully your dimmer knob will do the trick as Fastwoman says. It's on the right side of your steering wheel. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/24526-dimmer-switch-location-73-240z.html

I had to do it early so I'd have money for gifts for my family, 16x7 Rewinds and a new stereo.

Click Go Advanced. Scroll down to Additional Options. Click Manage Attachments, a small window will open. Click Add Files, then click Select Files. Find your picture from your camera or your hard drive, then in that box click Open then it'll close and go back to the 1st small box. Click Upload Files. They should appear on the bottom left of the light blue bar at the bottom. Click Done. That's how mine works.

if your FPR has 2 inlets on the side and the return on the bottom, vacuum up top, it's for a '77 and older. They changed in '78 to 1 inlet. Motorsport! Fuel Pressure Regulator, 75-77 280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

That was great! I was hoping for SRV, Pride and Joy at the end but ZZ Top was a smoother finish. 2 thumbs up.

They've got some good pump gas in Stoughton, Massachusetts.

I filled mine up with fuel as it is now my DD car, my truck smells like a dog. My Camry bit the dust last night after I relapsed into my road rage problem and stomped the throttle. I think the timing belt slipped a few teeth.

I bought an Exedy kit for around $125 when I was putting my motor back together, low on funds, it does OK but doesn't grab like I'm used to. I've read Nissan stock clutches are really good.

That was easier than I thought. Anyone who hasn't yet should spend a few hours cleaning this switch, I've got lights I don't remember having. Headlights are a steady beam now and my dash lights are brighter too. Thanks again to MikeW. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/17688-repairing-240z-combination-switch.html.