Everything posted by siteunseen
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250-300 HP, give or take 50HP
It's stout! So fast the side marker blew off. 1972 Datsun 240 Z
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I may be buying a 280Z soon, need some explanation on differences with 240Z
The ZXs have their blinkers in the bumpers, 240s are below the bumper, the 280s are just right!
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Available '73 240z,,,, was what the private message said.
Rust bucket? Looks more like a rust shot glass to me.
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New to the forum, and to the Z... Va
Looks untouched, which is good and bad. Good that it's original but bad because you've got a lot of work to do. You're going to need to pull the valve cover off to oil the valve train before cranking it so there's your chance to clean that. You're going to need to clean the electrical connections, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html. After draining the tank put a cheap clear fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation. Open the air box behind the front bumper and clean all the acorns out then get a new filter, they're cheap. Get a new metal fuel filter, passenger's side of the engine bay up front. Once you have new filters in you could straight wire the fuel pump to build up the pressure, which is about 30 something PSI so be careful, and look for fuel leaks around the clamps and maybe a rotted hose or 2. Change the oil and filter with cheap stuff from Walmart for the 1st time. Drain the radiator and flush it out, pull the old thermostat out and loosen the bottom radiator hose to flush out the engine coolant passages too. That's the first few hours. Oh yeah, I wouldn't spray the engine off with a hose pipe. I know it's tempting but a good Scotch Brite pad and some Simple Green with lots of rags works fine and keeps moisture out of the electronics. You've read all this before but I'm drinking coffee and it's raining! Again, a GREAT looking car.
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Why do people still buy cars from this company?
Unions, in my opinion.
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New to the forum, and to the Z... Va
Looks like a good find! Put up some pics of the engine bay too, sometimes these guys can spot problems just by looking at one. And read post #8 before you start cranking on it since it been sitting so long. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/introductions-z-stories/22619-waking-sleeping-beast.html He talks about carburetors and you have fuel injection but a lot of good info none the less. Here's some really good stuff too, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html
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76 Alternator upgrade wire splicing
I learned some helpful tricks for soldering by watching a Youtube video, stiff wire with alligator clips on the ends was the best one. It was frustrating compared to butt connectors but since it was my injector connectors I didn't want miles of electrical tape looking at me every time I opened the hood.
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E88 head on an N42 block
159.1 kilowatts = 213.356614 horsepower That's strong! N42 have dished pistons?
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Oil pressure ?
Does your '75 have the smaller one or the bigger one that looks like a fuel filter? My late '77 has the bigger one and it reads strong pressure even at idle although it gets lower when the oil is hot at idle. But at 3k RPM it reads 3/4's of the gauge. 1977 NISSAN 280Z Oil Pressure Sender / Switch
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With Ceramic Coated Headers, do I still need the heat shield?
After reading about excessive heat I decided to clean mine and paint them with high heat aluminum rattle can. VHT Flameproof for headers. Some serious heat comes off my header runners but above the shield it's not hot at all, my fuel rail is even cool to the touch, all your wiring and injectors will last longer if you use them I would think. At least use the horizontal one, IMO. You can put it on afterwards if you decide not to use them now, I took mine back off to paint it satin black. And I had to trim the vertical one for mine.
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HELP! Upgraded alternator in my '75 280z but headlights now won't work.
Well I learned something today thanks to ZedHead and google.com/images. :classic:
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HELP! Upgraded alternator in my '75 280z but headlights now won't work.
Where's your other fuse-able link block? Don't they all have 2?
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My "new" Z
Me too! though it was 20 years and a couple of Porsches later. $1,700 is great for that car. That's what got me back to Datsun, away from Porsche, way cheaper to keep up and just as much fun. I just put one of those front spoilers like you have on my 280 and love it. Handles better on the highway at speed.
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Recurring question, no seeming answer...
Do you have the hose that runs to the BPT from the BCDD? It's red in this picture. That gave me trouble with my high idle when I removed the EGR stuff.
- My Project Z.
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Fusible links - Fuel delivery issue
It helped me realize I'm not the only one! But we've got new parts and new knowledge!
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Sorry to be Redundent - Help
"Pay it forward" has new meaning to me after the help I've received from these nice folks on this forum. I'm always trying to return the help too but it's premature mostly. :stupid:
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1978 280Z - Just interesting to look at. Why a Z is not an investment.
I've got pretty much the same car, runs good just needs a paint job, with only $3,000 out of pocket and $20 of that is in Band-Aids and Neosporin.
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Sorry to be Redundent - Help
Fusible link refresh, the very bottom of the page. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html
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1978 280z No Power to the Starter
Those 2 "Security" screws are a PITA. I used a Dremel to cut a slit in them and then a flat screwdriver to turn them out. One good thing is they're not too tight so just a small slit will give you enough grab to turn them. Leave the phillips head screws in to keep weight off while you work them out. You might could use one of those extractor type drill bits to get them out, I don't have one but do have a Dremel. It's not too hard, just slow, and you have to be extra careful around the wiring.
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80's time capsule ebay
That's the same town my 240 came from, West of I-65. Could be the same guy, him and his Dad were into Z car's.
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Urethane air dam
I bought this from JEGS for $167, Xenon #3125. Took about 4 hours to put it on, I had already removed the front bumper and half of a finger nail a couple of weeks ago. The instructions were as clear as mud so I thought I might make it simple for the 9/74 to '78 one. The instructions say remove the body pan? You only need to remove the 2 small 1/4 panels under the headlight buckets. If you leave the middle skid pan it gives it something to rest on. Though it's not secure and could vibrate I'll end up putting a bolt or screw or something when I drive it again. Squirt the bolts and nuts a day before you start. I used the bottom of the turn signals as a reference for measuring down in the middle. I buggered the holes out a little, a little adjustment before tightening down. It turned out good, I'm happy with the look for now, fiberglass bumper is next!
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Car was just painted......
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Car was just painted......
That looks great! You'll get a lot of looks from that color.
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Just ordered my Rebello 3.0, now what
How old is your radiator? You'll have to remove it, might as well get a new one.