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I'm vested in a 401Z plan.

Those wouldn't rust but other than that obvious observation I couldn't say. I think you'll be fine with the lock washers it's just a shame MSA has that great header with that crappy stud kit you could get at any hardware store for way cheaper than $20 they charge.

I see that too! Mr Beck said in a post the other day that $5,000 would buy a rust bucket down in Florida. I got a steal on mine.

I'm sorry for not having this sooner, I was a little late waking up this morning. I went through my re build file and found this number on a receipt, Nissan #14039-W1500. I'm almost positive that's the smaller ones on my head studs in the middle because I bought 10, the other 2 are the big ones posted above. And the anti-seize isn't a must so don't sweat it if you already have them in, it was recommended in a book I went by to prevent corrosion and rust in the future. Did you put the longer threads on the stud in the head? I'm asking because I have about a 1/4" of threads above the nuts on mine but I put the short end in the head.

Is that heavy duty wiring harness from BD the same one Z's on da brain makes? Says it pulls power off the battery instead of the combo switch.

25 lbs on the studs? No. Barley tighten them in the head, the nuts on top of the manifolds do all the work. And use Anti-Seize in the head holes, steel going into aluminum.

Theses are the ones I used on the ends because they break sooner, 2 I tapped out to the #10 size. They were for an 8 cylinder Nissan truck. The smaller ones are a part number close to what's in the picture but I can't remember right now. If you go to the dealer they'll be able to find you the ones, I believe he said they are on older Altimas and other smaller motors, I think they were #8s. Just make sure it won't finger tighten, the out of round manifold nuts will just turn on a couple of threads with your fingers but if you tighten it then take one back off then you've ruined the self locking function. Sorry I can't be more helpful but it's been awhile and my nogin ain't too spongy anymore. If you have a Fastenal in your area they'd probably have them.

I'll guess for an ATV?

Get out of round nuts from your Nissan dealership. The ones from MSA spin down too easily on the stud threads which means they'll spin up too causing another exhaust leak. Or you could re-torque them once a year.

Thanks for the pictures, it looks great, and the moral support. I'm about 2 years in myself and just now starting on the outside! I'm waiting for a front spoiler just like your's. I'm having it painted Gunmetal grey to match my wheels and want the bumper satin black. Then have the car sprayed original 305 blue. Thanks again for some inspiration.

Here's my pictures from when I did mine. Glad to see you went with the color of grease, I did and then read the black was less likely to squeak. Something about graphite?

My Mom's always had Jack Russells, they're as nutty as a squirrel's turd. Pile up some blankets and they'll be gone for hours. She has a hard time with keeping their nails filed down too. They don't sit still!

Muriatic acid and Red-Kote worked great for me. Z Tech Tips Ball and Socket Compression Rod (AtlanticZ.ca) It's not a ball and socket tip, it's tank removal and cleaning. Then put a filter out of the tank, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation

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Sorry, I can't help you there.

Pictures of it installed or laying on a bench? I'll get you some from inside my car but i don't have the the panel itself out of my car.

I have that in my favorites, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/su-carb-technical-articles/41940-quick-dirty-su-tuning.html

They run better with a thermostat. Nissan recommends 170 degrees for tropical temps. Also try spinning your fan, if it spins too easily the fan clutch maybe worn out. Maybe 1 revolution with your hand on a new one, cold, they're oil filled. What does the needle show after 25 minutes? Colder?

When I bought my 240 it was my 1st carbureted Z and I was thinking the reason I was cranking and cranking with the choke lever pulled was the carbs needed to be filled with fuel. Turns out my valves were out of adjustment. After getting them back to specs it cranks on the 1st turn over with full choke. They weren't unusually loud though so it was just luck that I even checked them, actually it was a rainy day and bored to death project. I'm no certified mechanic but I think they DO need the CSV just like my 240 needs to be choked. I left mine unplugged accidentally and knew right away something was wrong but your '83 may be different than a '77. Take it out of the manifold and put it in a glass jar to see if it's squirting fuel, 2 phillips head screws I think. Maybe the connector is bad or needs cleaning? Good luck! Oh yeah, UNPLUG THE COIL WIRE before test cranking.

Which spoiler is that? I'm about to buy one from JEGS, it's a Xenon #3125, and was curious about the urethane being wavy. Seems like I read more and more about that problem. Thanks for any advice.

Make sure the "Bullet Connectors" are clean and plugged together firmly, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html. More on EFI, Z Tech Tips EFI & Fuel (AtlanticZ.ca) || |Â |Â Â |Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â |

Do you pull the pressure off the steering wheel lock as you try and turn the key? I have to do that on mine if the front wheels aren't straight. They're should be a sticker in the glove box with the key code, maybe a new key would be easier? My 240 has a new ignition installed, the guy I bought it from said the old one was worn so bad the key would fall out. I worked at a hardware store out of high school and made keys, house keys and auto 2 sided ones. When a customer brought one back saying it was too hard to turn I would smooth it down further with the wire wheel on the machine, always worked better. If you have access to a bench grinder with a wire wheel give it a try, when it gets too hot to hold you should stop and try it to see if it's any easier to turn. That's my $.02.

Could very well be the TPS, here's adjusting tip http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html. Here's AFM info too, click on EFI and FUEL. http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html Has it just started the jerking or is it a problem you've had? I've read FI cars don't run good with bigger cams is why I ask. Old Yeller's a fine looking car!

Your throttle plate might be all gummed up causing the sticky feeling gas pedal. Lacquer thinner and a tooth brush fixed mine.

Here's Blue's Tech Tip for head removal, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/42420-77-280z-head-removal-%5Bstep-step-photos%5D.html When I did mine I used my longest screwdriver's handle for the wedge then pulled it out with Vise Grips. Worked for me. And also went with Felpro, dry. You might want to upgrade your headbolts while your there, turbo ZX from MSA, seems like they were $100 though.