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Yes I was able to cure it but at a greater expense than a injector cooling fan from the ZXs. I did all of it while rebuilding my motor, you know the old "as long as I'm here I might as well go there too" adage. Getting rid of all the emission stuff and spaghetti pile of hoses that were there were my main goal, we don't have the inspections in good old Alabama. If you could find one of those fans that would be the easiest fix until you're ready to go a lot further, headers and a straight through fuel supply. I love what Zed Head said, "For the sake of the passengers in these embarrassing situations, please."

Where did you get that quote from? I didn't read that in his post.

Here's a start, Z Tech Tips Ball and Socket Compression Rod (AtlanticZ.ca). I did it and coated mine with Red-Kote. EDIT; It's not about ball and socket compression rod, it's how to rehab your gas tank, click on it.

Here's what I've read about that, never done it though but there's info in the archives about it. You can pull the valve cover and shine a flashlight down the passengers side of the chain to see how far your tensioner is pushed out. You're not supposed to see any of the metal on the plunger or very little. A 1/4 inch would be the max I'd think, 1/2 inch and you need to move the sprocket to the next number. here's something to look at, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html

Hello Mike! How many Z mechanics does it take to screw in a spark plug? 1, he holds the plug in place and the world spins around him. Heard that a court ordered AA meeting but it was how many alcoholics does it take to screw in a light bulb. Keep coming back!

Re-posted from another thread mentioned in post #1 here, thanks Zed Head, you're a REAL problem solver , I'm shooting in the dark. "I didn't mention that I have the ceramic coated header from MSA. That could be important as I've never had the hot start problem since the header and new injectors on a open fuel supply with the aluminium rail and the FPR out the rear barb to the return line to the tank. It recirculates but not on top of the intake manifold." As soon as I can find one I'll get one of those infrared thermometers you can point at something to get the degrees and get some readings while it's hot, then after it sits for 10 or so minutes.

"But you doesn't have to call me Johnson"

Calling Captain Obvious! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/51640-steering-rack-disassembly-refurb.html

I didn't mention that I have the ceramic coated header from MSA. That could be important as I've never had the hot start problem since the header and new injectors on a open fuel supply with the aluminium rail and the FPR out the rear barb to the return line to the tank. It recirculates but not on top of the intake manifold.

So if it gets current only with the starter, it's squirting some fuel when the starter is engaged? I'd like to think it gets a little shot on start regardless of the temp, it has to help.

So the Cold Start Valve does not squirt fuel anytime the motor is hot? Wouldn't that be beneficial on starting regardless of the temp? My Exmark mower has to be choked EVERYTIME I crank it, no matter if it's scorching hot. Not full choke but about half, always. I thought the CSV shot a little each time you turned the key.

I think he means coolant temp sensor. It has two bullet connectors about 8" from the thermostat housing. Here's some pictures of the connections on top of the motor but he could mean where the wiring harness connects to the ECU. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html, 4th picture down.

Are the plugs dark? Is your choke adjusted right? Sounds rich to me. Pull the plugs and put up a picture of them.

Sounds like 3 days of driving clogged up your fuel somewhere, try a new filter up front. You should put one between the tank and the the fuel pump too, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation

I went out there and the motor isn't locked up, and the transmission is a close ratio for sure. Paid him $25 and he's going to put it where I can get to everything better. I'll have it in a few days, I hope!, and will put up a picture.

I'm not too smart BUT an aluminium fuel rail with the FPR on the back end is pretty simple.

What does the "RC39" stand for? I found a 2+2 '82 at a junkyard with that written on the engine bay ID plate, FS5W71B RC39. I've looked and can't find out what it means. That tranny and the motor for $150. It's an old junkyard that the kids of the deceased owner are cleaning up to sale the land, they're crushing everything old and there's about 5 Zs out there but they're ruined from sitting out so long. Thanks for any information someone might have.

Skim through this for the info you're asking about, The Datsun Workshop Cylinder Head page

It's stout! So fast the side marker blew off. 1972 Datsun 240 Z

The ZXs have their blinkers in the bumpers, 240s are below the bumper, the 280s are just right!

Rust bucket? Looks more like a rust shot glass to me.

Looks untouched, which is good and bad. Good that it's original but bad because you've got a lot of work to do. You're going to need to pull the valve cover off to oil the valve train before cranking it so there's your chance to clean that. You're going to need to clean the electrical connections, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html. After draining the tank put a cheap clear fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation. Open the air box behind the front bumper and clean all the acorns out then get a new filter, they're cheap. Get a new metal fuel filter, passenger's side of the engine bay up front. Once you have new filters in you could straight wire the fuel pump to build up the pressure, which is about 30 something PSI so be careful, and look for fuel leaks around the clamps and maybe a rotted hose or 2. Change the oil and filter with cheap stuff from Walmart for the 1st time. Drain the radiator and flush it out, pull the old thermostat out and loosen the bottom radiator hose to flush out the engine coolant passages too. That's the first few hours. Oh yeah, I wouldn't spray the engine off with a hose pipe. I know it's tempting but a good Scotch Brite pad and some Simple Green with lots of rags works fine and keeps moisture out of the electronics. You've read all this before but I'm drinking coffee and it's raining! Again, a GREAT looking car.

Unions, in my opinion.

Looks like a good find! Put up some pics of the engine bay too, sometimes these guys can spot problems just by looking at one. And read post #8 before you start cranking on it since it been sitting so long. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/introductions-z-stories/22619-waking-sleeping-beast.html He talks about carburetors and you have fuel injection but a lot of good info none the less. Here's some really good stuff too, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

I learned some helpful tricks for soldering by watching a Youtube video, stiff wire with alligator clips on the ends was the best one. It was frustrating compared to butt connectors but since it was my injector connectors I didn't want miles of electrical tape looking at me every time I opened the hood.