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Mine is a 9/'76 build date but titled as a 1977. When I buy things they call it an "Early '77" with the sloped rear deck. Is yours sloped up at the rear, by the hatch or flat? Do you have a factory 5 speed? When I went to download the '77 FSM from Xenon it was a "coruppted file" according to my computer and wouldn't let me download it so I got the '78 manual.

Put it in water and see if it dissolves, you may have some old Quaaludes. Don't kill the cat.

You've got that great trait, do it right the 1st time! I see you have a HUGE garage to keep the Z out of the weather but here's something to look at Grannyknot did and hopefully I'll get it done before paint. Post #12, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48317-what-do.html

I've never done this but some people use an unlit propane torch to find intake manifold leaks. The RPMs will raise when it sucks in the propane at the leak. Or maybe a can of ether would work? google.com it. Good luck.

Like all things Rednecked, it works purty phuckin good.

Doesn't the '71 have 2 choke levers? Are they both pushing and pulling the cables completely? Here's how I learned to do the valve adjusting, PictureTrail: Online Photo Sharing, Social Network, Image Hosting, Online Photo Albums. Doing them cold will get you close enough for your 1st time. But you gotta go back and do the "fits, or doesn't fit" when the motors hot some day. That Haynes manual will make a good beer coaster while you're reading this forum.

Wow! how'd I miss that. That's a great car you have there.

That's #6, the one closet to the radiator is #1. I don't think that's lean, it looks really rich like it's not firing. Hook it in the plug wire and put it close to something metal and have someone crank the car over to se if a spark jumps. Could be a loose wire. Or a bad plug? Or a bad wire, swap one over if it doesn't spark.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-2222?seid=srese1&gclid=COGdjrL3lr4CFU4R7AodJSAAAw, I think that's what is on the car in the picture. Or this Bosch,http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-0280160001/overview/ I had a lot of sleepless nights thinking about this, not really, boost vs. vacuum and how it would work on my car. Never could find a good enough explanation so I went with the single "IN" FPR for the '78s. Zip tyed to the firewall wasn't my end goal but as you can see from my pictures, looking past Billie Jean Dance, once I got it running right with the coolant sensor tweak I haven't even cleaned the engine bay up. Just driving it and enjoying the rides with my dog, it's funny as hell watching her try to anticipate the shifts. When my hand goes to the shifter she leans forward, then I pin her to the seat until 6,000. If I leave the door open just for a second she's in there, and loves it my PETA friends. After some coffee and my meds kicking in I think it's the Bosch in the picture. It has to be the Bosch, I don't see any vacuum source.

The oil changes were a little less frequent, 13 qts. of Kendall GT gets exspensive, but if you can afford a Porsche...

She's the bait!

I think fins would help. My go karts had finned heads to catch air.

My only mistake (:stupid:) is I didn't check the levelness and the up and down plumb? when I tapped the 6 injector holes. 4 are straight and 2 aren't, but they're separated so only a OCD person like myself would notice. I would, of course, not get in a hurry and check the levelness between each drilling. I guess the force of my drill press caused the rail stock to move in between holes. Clamp it with cardboard or luan wood works best on the press. Use plenty of oil or spray lube on the drill bits and the taps. This is the only thing that wouldn't melt down onto my heat shield, Permatex High-Temperature Thread Sealant (.2 oz) 59214: Get the best Pipe Sealer & Teflon Tape at Advance Auto Parts. Let me know if I can help. Cliff Oh yeah, I didn't drill the ends just tapped the threads. The hole is already perfect from rossmachine. Oh yeah again, I didn't do a barb for the CSV, just T'd out the back. One goes to the FPR the other side to the cold start valve.

I used muratic acid to clean mine, as Blue did here, Z Tech Tips Ball and Socket Compression Rod (AtlanticZ.ca). Worked great. Then sealed it with Red Kote, $20 bucks for a quart. Put a glass fuel filter right before the fuel rail, no pinkish gas. Very pleased with that stuff.

Without a taste test I'd have to say they're breath mints. Probably was a smokers car, I've heard that was Kool back in the 70s.

There's 2 with aluminium rails in that thread I linked, Willoughby Z and 280~Master. They live down here where it gets pretty hot so they might be able to share their experiences on the hot restarting problem.

Same here!

"Oh, I see!" said the blind man. I ended up getting the vacuum gauge out and left the timing light on my bench. Turned it until it got the quietest and was pulling the highest vacuum, then backed up a smidge. Hooked up the light and it was on the V before 20. So I'm guessing that's about 17.5. Called my other cars mechanic and he said he had one of those good timing lights and if I brought him lunch Friday, he'd do the total advance thing y'all speak of. Thanks very much for helping me understand.

When I rebuilt my motor I put the new timing set at hole 3 for more low end power. Reading Blue's tips I've found that will increase the timing 8 degrees with a new chain. I've also read that a good setting with the E12-80 distibutor is 12 -14 BTDC. So for an initial setting I should see the pulley mark line up with 5 on the timing scale for a total of 13 degrees BTDC? I've overloaded my thinking to the point of confusion. Thanks for any help, Cliff

The enjoyment of changing plugs in the Z compared to the 911, that's enough to switch back. I remiss. That was enough for me.

Donate to the club, those are skimlinks I believe. After I got the gold star they went away, worth every penny! When your motors hot that aluminium rail feels cool while idling doesn't it? I made my rail too for 50 bucks and still have the measurements if anybody wants them, thanks again Willoughby. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/43897-make-fuel-rail.html, #21. My old injectors had one small hole in the pintle, new ones are the hole thing with a spray hole in the center, Standard FJ707Ts. I'm glad things are better on your Z.

Thank you guys! It'll be here Saturday. tlorber I would like to say thank you also for the other option.

Anybody have any ingenious ways to fix this without replacing the console? '72 240Z, I've taken the ashtray out and slide the cover open to hold it steady with my hand for now. One of those plastic screw holders have broken. Thanks for any ideas.

Blue's telecomm company's going to see the correlation of broken down systems and broken down Zs soon.