siteunseen

I just wanted to write something so I'd get the green arrow. This is great!

If you have a Nissan dealership close by they were .61 each, $7.32 in May of '12.

That's exactly right. 240 adjustment is by turning the backside bolt, it's big; Crescent wrench, the 280 has the vertical bolt for adjusting tension, 12mm I think but it could be a 14mm. 240 top mounted pulley 280 lower drivers side

Put a new 3 row brass and copper 280 radiator in my '72 240 and a full shroud. Radiator fit great just hangs lower because of the added transmission line cooler cavity. Dumb a## me didn't get all the parts before I started so I'll have to wait until Monday morning for the different shape lower hose, every chain store has the upper but no lowers. Beers are on me, literally.

I'd get the new o-rings too and the newer hex head hold down screws, Nissan part #01121-02981, don't have the number for the o-rings, they came with my FJ707Ts. Check your old holders for cracks then don't over tighten the screws on installation, that's what causes the cracks.

Post #6 also has some photos that might help, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/52166-choke-lever-mount-broken-under-console.html

So you have a stage II? Which company? and do you like it or wish you had gone bigger? I've watched your videos and enjoyed the chirp into 3rd gear. Thanks, Cliff

I'll be searching for the right head gasket thickness and if that lowers the compression too much I'll go with the stage III. Hybridz here I come. I'll have to take a Valium though, those guys can be intense. Maybe I'll just be safe and get the stage III like Dizeased suggest, I'm not going racing.

Well I can hardly wait to measure the seals that are on there now. They're the same blueish green color as the Fel-Pro # SS72686 recommended in the hybridz link. The head came from a knowledgeable Z guy it seemed. His Dad was big into Zs and held onto this E31 head and the Weber 40s for his son who unfortunately had to sale the project, lucky for me though. The only thing I'm doing different than his plan is using flat pistons instead of the dished ones that came with the deal. He too was saving for the cam kit when his new paint and body shop's bills jumped to the front of the line. Life happens. Thanks guys for the help, I can't read or buy y'all's experience.

I'll say $5,000 for a decent car, another $2k getting it reliable and $4k to $5k for a top notch paint jod. There are some very prone areas that rust to look for, https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+rust+areas&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=iwK_U9rdNtW3yATDxoG4Dg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=620, plus check the gap width all around the doors hood and hatch. Definitely wear some old clothes and get own your back up under the car, take pictures to look at when you're at home on a bigger screen. Make sure the car is painted the same color in the engine bay as the body, if not it's a repaint and will not be worth as much.

Everything I've read says get the bronze out and replace with steel. If you can find a local machinist that is familiar with our engines I'd go that route, Datsun Parts LLC, from what I've read isn't too concerned about quality control, it's more about moving products. Start at post #44,http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/52438-steam-powered-z.html#post459944 The full monty, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/51401-bronze-valve-seats.html

I'd like to run SUs now and a Weber triple 40s set up I have for later. If it was your car which would you get? Stage iii or the competition? F54 with flat pistons Type intake exhaust duration stage iii .490 290° 242° competition .530 306° 264° Information from here, http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/2004-05/page176.pdf

I measured and converted to mm the size of the pulley, it's close to the Napa one so I think that would work. I would have to remove mine to get the bearing hole size and I'm sorry but I'm not doing that, that thing's in a tight spot. The fan and the top radiator hose would have to come off. Anyway here's what I have, width 13/16's= 20.6 mm, overall outside diameter 3 11/16=93.6625mm. Napa one is 19mm by 94mm.

It has a info plate on the compressor I can get a picture of, the pulley I can get you the measurements later today. It's probably close to that Napa one in that link.

I've been through a '77' from the front bumper to the rear but couldn't have done it so easily without this, Tech Tips. He's got a '77 too, lucky for us! His name is Blue, people call him Blue.

My last hole at #6 was so wallerd out I had to go bigger and the 1st hole at #1 under the thermostat housing had a heli-coil in it that I drilled out and went bigger. Do you have the N47 intake manifold? If you do, does it have any rot around the EGR tunnel where the tube from the exhaust manifold connects? My '77 did and another guy, Rossi, had the same problem with his. Here's a picture of mine after I sawz-alled the EGR mount hoping I could have it welded up. No way said my welder so I lucked up and found an early edition N47 without the EGR openings. Oh yeah, I'm pretty sure the OE size studs for our cars is what's on 4cyl. Altimas, at least that's what I remember the parts guy saying when he was trying to find the larger ones.

I put 4 of these on my N42, 2 on the ends and 2 in the middle. Came from my Nissan dealer, I think they're for a Titan pick up.

I got this a couple of years ago and am ready to get the cam kit for it. I've read go wild not mild to prevent detonation problems, but cam specs are all over the place so advise me please. Can't decide whether to put it on top of an L28 with flat pistons or the L24. It's got the big intake valves and steel seats, also teal colored valve seals. All new a few years ago, never been bolted down. maybe I should use the N47 I have.

February 1972. I'm about drunk with happiness (beer) from that result! I've decided to go ahead and take it apart and make it as new as I can, steering wobble at 80mph, radiator dripping coolant etc., she's an older girl that needs a vaginoplasty. Don't google images of that word. Thanks Zkars & Chas.

I was reading trying to find a good clutch to order and stumbled across a thread about adjusting the slave cylinder. "What can you adjust on a slave cylinder" I said to myself, buy a new one and be done. But boy oh boy was I wrong. Thanks to Arne and someone that goes by Dogma I turned that rod out 2 threads and left black marks in front of my house. YeeHaw! I love this forum.

You've asked a lot with a few words. Here's more reading for you, Z Tech Tips EFI & Fuel (AtlanticZ.ca) || |Â |Â Â |Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â |

I say to stay with the original color because of the engine bay is the same. But at least something close. I like the darker greens for the candy effect. 70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery

Is your's mounted in front of the valve cover, compressor on passenger's side firewall by the fuel pump? usually a York brand. Here's a "kinda" picture. It's the very top pulley. I'm at work now so I can't get one of my other '72's which is mounted on the drivers side of the motor. I'll put you up those later today if someone hasn't already. here's something with Napa part numbers, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/20142-c-idler-pulley-rebuild.html and google.com, https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+a/c+pulley&rlz=1C1SNNT_enUS361US361&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=rAG8U7K2O-a48gHf4YEI&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw&biw=1093&bih=508#imgdii=_ Here's those pictures but I forgot that I'd taken the belt and pulley of the other car so I've taken one of a 280's pulley. I boxed all my Z parts up this past weekend and put them in storage but I'm pretty sure the 280's close enough to the 240's set up. The last one is my 280 with no belt, silver. First 3 are the York set up, the pulley is under the top radiator hose where it connects to the thermostat housing. Well the pictures shifted, the drivers side compressor on the 280 has no belt, the rest are the one on the passenger's side fire wall. One last thing, the top mounted pulley is adjusted by 1 big nut looking thing. The lower mounted pulley is adjusted with a threaded rod going through the mount.

Nissan part #90909-E4100 for black. My guy charges me $.88 a piece, packs of 10, just bought 30 and they're still available from the dealer.

That stays full of gas while you're driving around. It keeps a steady flow to the fuel pump even when you're going through a turn. The supply line is coming from it. I'd call it a baffle.