siteunseen

According to Dashtop's web site it's right, 240Z

Mine have a pharmaceutical magnet under the drivers seat. What I did today was put the steering rack poly bushings on #918. With the car up on ramps and no weight on the steering or suspension it was simple. I had already prepared myself for unbolting the motor mounts and jacking the front up a few inches, but NOOOO thank goodness.

After a good drive my ashtray is hot enough to light a cigarette it seems. I've got the 2.5" exhaust so maybe that's my heat source. My reverse light switch used to leak a little too but it's the same level as the fill plug so I always thought I had too much in there, it has quit doing it. Maybe it's bone dry?

So where does the plug from MSA go?

I've found 2 12oz cans of R-12 and a can of the oil. Might just put the oil in and save the freon for next year. I don't know much about the A/Cs and will be pulling the motor out this fall. I'd hate to waste the 2 cans unintentionally.

I tried sneaking up behind a horse, of course.

I talked to a machinist. He says the cylinders were cleaned up and that widened them by .030". That's why it has the .030 over sized rings for the stock pistons. He's an old friend of my Dad's and laughed at me! He said to clean the hell out of everything and bring it to him for measuring to make sure it's all going to work. I can get bent out of shape when I don't understand things, that's why I'm still single and half nuts.

Straddle a ditch......

I wasn't in my right mind when I posted that last night. I was wondering if .030 is a common cylinder over size after a machine shop honing. I believe that is the reason for the part number to be 6124 030. I definitely will do a dry fitting before installing these rings that came with the block assembly.

My F54 cylinder holes measure 3.4" after a good cross hatch honing. I've got some Hasting rings, 1.5 1st 2.0 2nd then the oil ring 4.0, for the ZX pistons. Does that -030 at the end of the part number mean thirty thousandths larger? Would 3.416" be too tight? They're cast iron I believe. Thanks for any help/ideas/opinions, Cliff

That'd be easy to get that look. MSA black fiberglass bumpers, Motorsport! Fiberglass Bumpers - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts $350, Xenon #3124 front spoiler Xenon 3124 Xenon Front Air Dams - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS $168 from Jegs.

As long as the tail light section is original you should be able to get it back. But if you don't have the original bumpers you could leave the bumper covers on and just get rid of the side molding. I like the looks of some of the front bumper covers. I'm looking at MSA's kits, Motorsport! Full Body Kits - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

I've got a friend that has the 414 in those big tanks I'm just not sure which to use but you're right, E-bay would be a sure thing. Those are the yard sales I like, when they don't have time to check everything. Maybe I could find some between here and Addison, MI. The 127 Sale-The World's Longest Yard Sale

No help here just my buzz. My '77 buzzes 6 times when I turn the ignition to ON, I wait until it stops then crank it. My '72 buzzes when I put it in gear without the lap belt fastened, that's annoying when I'm just moving it around my garage.

That's the one my late '76 build date but titled a '77 with an oiler cam plus spray bar N47 has. It has paper thin gaskets too.

I think you could find a better one too. I've got a set of triple Webers and have been advised to leave them off, they are a pain to get right and the original SUs are much more user friendly especially to somebody that's not familiar with carburetors, like me. Having a high pressure ZX fuel pump with Webers which only need around 3 lbs does not make sense to me. I think it would be a lot more tinkering than driving, not fun for your 1st Z. Here's #110 original paint, that one on E-bay looks more pinkish to me.

Hey Hardway. Did you use the barrel clips from Nissan on those machine screw size #4-40? I've painted mine with the flat black and am ready to put the pins in and was wondering what you used. It looks like the barrel clips are removable if i ever needed to. Here's the clips I'm speaking of, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/33399-installing-emblems-drilling-through-paint.html post #13. Thank you.

The carpet helps keep the interior road noise level down on mine. I found some nice thick rubber mats at one of the chain stores that fit perfect, probably Advance but I can't remember. Without the carpet when I shut the door it makes a "ting" sound, with the carpet it's more of a "thud" sound. You could take the carpet out and see how you like it, it's not fastened down; at least mine isn't.

I used ARP turbo bolts when I rebuilt my '77. After 500 miles I re torqued them as their directions recommend. From the ARP wb site, " Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs (or bolts) are re-torqued after the engine has been run." The Official ARP Web Site | Manufacturing

Meguairs Clay Bar kit from Walmart and a pack of micro-fiber towels. Then O'reilly's for the Meguairs #7 Show Car Glaze. I'm going to do my Camry this weekend if the weathers nice. The clay barring didn't do too much on this car, I've washed it about 10 times. The direction say it's for contaminates on the surface of the paint. The clay was white and barely had an orange tint to it after I did the hole hood. I'm sure it'll do better on the Camry as it sits outside.

The #305 280 is like I had in high school. Bought it 3 years ago for $1,400, no rust at all. Messed with it for 2 months with the help of Fastwoman and Ztrain and of course Blue's Tech Tips, got it running good and realized I wanted to keep it. 9 months later it was all new except paint and carpet, it's my Buick. The #918 240 is the 2nd 240 I bought, the 1st one is red with white interior. If I could walk into a Nissan dealership and order a brand new 240 it would be exactly like the 918 I found on craigslist.com. Got it for a song too. Now I have ebony and ivory 240s. I will sale the red one sometime soon because I need the garage space, 3 slots and 5 cars but of course the Zs get the 3 slots. Anyway the 305 blue 280 will stay as my Buick like car (GT) and the 918 will always be my sports car. I had always been a motorcycle person but got sick of waking up in the ER. This forum with all the information and positive personalities has changed me forever from bikes to Zs. My Mother loves y'all for getting me off the bikes.

Anybody put 414a in an R12 system? I know some folks have put 414b Hot Shot in theirs but I can't find it around my area, not sure if it's still available. I can get 414a and my HVAC friend says it's a direct drop in for R12 commercial use, freezers and coolers, but he doesn't know about older auto systems. Thanks for any help, Cliff EDIT: Maybe I've got that backwards, sorry. I'll read more on it.

I dropped mine and cleaned it then coated with Red Kote, replaced all the hoses to the evap tank too. It was a jobbie job! Here's the thread, half is the tank work the other half is about our shoes, we have fun on here. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/funnybone/52471-developing-story.html

And sure enough it did, after a lot of washing and waxing. Meguairs #7 Show Car Glaze is great stuff. When I got it home, After beers and #7 yesterday,

This one works great with the ZX dizzy, http://www.amazon.com/Crane-Cams-730-0020-PS20-Performance/dp/B000CIO1F0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406738019&sr=8-1&keywords=crane+ps20