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Has it ever ran for any amount of time? just short runs then it sputters out? Mine was doing that when I first bought it. It was a crudded up fuel tank. It'd run long enough to clog the filters then leave me stranded somewhere in the neighborhood. To confirm this you can run the fuel lines into a small gas can and bypass the tank. I strapped one in front of the radiator, 2.5 gallon jug, and drove very slowly around the neighborhood for about an hour without any problems. I would put in a ZX distributor with electronic ignition and get rid of those points. It's easy to do and cost me about $150. $100 for a remanned distributor and $50 for the ZX coil, ZX cap and plugs from amazon.com. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

I went to check in with my machinist today. He has the block done and is waiting on moly plasma rings from Hastings. He wants the expansion core plugs for the front and rear of the block, I'll put the sides in after painting it. Promised to have the block ready before the July 4th holidays. I'm going to put one of the E88 heads on there for now. I might get the E31 and cam kit back from him and send it to someone else, I have the feeling he doesn't want to mess with setting it up. I've learned a valuable lesson from this, I should never say "Take your time, I'm in no rush". I told him that in February thinking I'd have it by April or at least May, WRONG! Nice guy though so pitching a fit wouldn't speed him up any, probably wizz him off and make things even slower. He's the only guy in town. Sorry to post my work in your thread but it was quicker to find.

Did you have to thin that chassis paint much? Seems pretty thin already and from I read on their website they recommend 5% acetone. I usually do 30% to 50% on most other paints. I use a gravity HVLP gun to spray a bunch of light coats, maybe that's why I have to thin it down so much? Thanks for any tips.

I used my shop vac hose with the flat attachment for crevices slid under the garage door this past winter when I rebuilt my carbs.

$20 car cover to keep the dust off. Will it run? You say you're going to roll it in the garage? If not I'd pull the valve cover and soak the valve train with oil as well as the cylinders through the plugs like you said. Spin the motor somehow.

They look like small section of a drinking straw. You put them over the valve stem so the the seals won't tear on the collets slots when you're sliding them on.

Putting the whole box of bushings on your car would be thousand dollar job to me. It's a lot of work. Some I couldn't get to until I pulled the motor. The rear control arm bushings are still left over in the box. But you're an honest lady so I'd charge you less. Smiley face emoticon. Read the tech tips under SUSPENSION. You'll see the hyper flex install. In red like yours.

Yes sir! I'm going with one on my 280 when I finally get it repainted, light years from now though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1975-1978-Datsun-280Z-Lower-Body-Side-Stripe-Kit-S30-Fairlady-Z-/150768731524?hash=item231a844584&vxp=mtr 240s broke the line.

The word "thump" is what got that reply. They're notorious for that noise when shifting gears when the differential mount is worn.

Here's something about a resistor for the tach I found on atlanticz's Tech Tips. It's not saying if it's by the ECU or the TIU though, but Fastwoman's right as usual. This is the original wiring on my 77 280z (Credits to Wayne Lewis!!!) Notes: Red and Green carry trigger signal to ignition unit. (These will not be used) Blue wire to -neg post on ballast block will now go directly to -neg post on coil. (the small blue jumper wire can be discarded). This wire carries the ignition pulse to the ECU's pin 1 and it also goes to the tach after passing through a resistor (see pics above for ECU and resistor). The ECU triggers the injectors from this pulse.

Hey Redwing. When I first got another 280 after 20 something years of driving other more expensive little cars with round headlights I read everything I could find. I knew more about the "cars" than I did the one in my garage. I'm gonna guess this is the helpful tips you found, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html He has a '77 280, lucky for me, and likes to take pictures, lucky for us all. You should bookmark that link, I use it just about everyday. It has a EFI & FUEL sub topic. My 240Z had a black wire that was loose at the distributor. When I hooked it up my tach came back to life. It runs to the coil also. Can't say for sure if was black with a white stripe or solid black, sorry, but that's probably your problem. Look around the coil and the ballast resistor, driver's side fender.

Are those the ones from MSA? I found these on e-bay that I'll probably use when I get new paint. They're more expensive but look closer to the originals, IMO. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1970-1973-Datsun-240Z-Lower-Body-Side-Stripe-Kit-S30-Fairlady-Z-/150768731520?hash=item231a844580&vxp=mtr

I agree, Ztherapy is a great model for small business owners. They've got it right. Can't wait to see the new paint. What code number is yours? Will you paint the spoilers with the radar paint? SMILEY

I'm 6 feet tall and I absolutely have to put mine on ramps or jack stands to do anything besides pull the dipstick.

If there's no oil stains on the floor, that motor is burning it. Could be the rings or the valve seals. Get a loaner compression gauge from your local auto parts and do a compression test. I've read if you don't use the "condom" on the valve stems when installing the seals it causes damage, maybe a slight tear. I've never installed them myself so I'm just repeating what I've read.

I had a 1984 944. Loved it too, had an Audi 4 cylinder but was very quick. Great braking, seats were low like the Z's. Drove under my buddies Camaro leaving a parking lot. $2,000 to fix the headlights and paint the front. The lights were the kind that roll over and up, connected together with a bar. A few months later a guy turned in front of me and I couldn't stop in time. T boned his van. Went to court over fault, he was in his 70s going to the mall to walk at 7am. I was 21 and supposed to be at work at 7am so I ended up eating that one, paid $5,500 for it with a cracked windshield. Paid $800 for the new glass then $2,000 for the rear ending accident. Over 8 grand I spent and drove it for a little over a year. Great car though! Traded the totaled 944 for a ZX straight up. 8 years later I bought a 911SC, that was a mechanics car for sure. Took me half a day to change 6 spark plugs and held 13 quarts of high dollar Kendall oil. I'll stick with these Zs until minimum wage goes up.

Kinda biased but I LOVE IT!!! It'll make an early impression on some other kids too.

The oil pressure sending unit by the passenger's side motor mount, to the right of the oil filter, could be bad. Clogged up or maybe just a loose wire connection. They are cheap too. Unplug the wire and clean the brass on the unit, then squeeze the wire connector so it will fit nice and tight. That's what I would do first.

They have the events listed now. http://zccazconvention.com/conventions/2015/?page_id=12

The American version

Possibly, we can talk then you decide. I'll send you a PM when I get back home. Captain Obvious I apologize for the misspelling of your surname. I must have posted with my phone and I use autocomplete as much as I can, sometimes the glare causes me to make mistakes.

Acura NSX

Ignition unit

With a good fuel delivery system I don't know of a bad S30 (240 thru 280s, '70 to '78). My opinion. '73 and '74s had some emission carbs that are frowned upon by most folks, but they can easily be replaced with the earlier carbs. '75 was the 1st year for EFI so by '77 & '78 they got the bugs worked out. You want carburetors or fuel injection? The bodies are the same just some interior differences and the bumpers were upgraded per DOT laws. My favorite is the simple '72.