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I'm glad you said that Blue, I couldn't figure out what he had. Is it a four barrel conversion?

Great! I love this forum. I actually thought about cutting a couple of flat washers last night. I can call some body shops and see if I can get one, or maybe the chain stores may have them? Thank you both! I'll get on this as soon as I can calm myself down enough. That's about the most nerve racking thing I've done in awhile. This is an educational endeavor for me, the E31 is next. EDIT: Hooray, the chain stores do have them. I would probably loose some blood if I tried to make my own.

The E31 & E88 came with the one on bottom, I think. The N42 had the newer design, the one on top. I bought an N42 that had been changed over to internal oiling cam and block off plates on the cam towers. Spray bars are prone to failure, so as Captain Obvious says "CHECK YOUR SPRAY BARS". Great looking motor you have there!

Those aren't made for an L head and if you drive them down too far the valve guide will cause them to "bulge" out between the little spring and the metal base of the seal. You can see the gap at the very bottom between the inner spring seat and the metal base of the seals. I'm worried I went too far. I'll put another, uninstalled one beside these and take a closeup picture to help judge, my eyes are finally showing their age.

If you can get $50 dollars worth of stuff from Advance Auto, put TRT30 in the coupon code when you check out and you'll get 30% off. Pick it up at your local store, no shipping charges. The good carpet is made by ACC and the best price I've found was on ebay.com. Rockauto.com is good, they may have the ignition switch? I got my rubber kit with a project car I bought. It came from from MSA as a whole kit, I've read they don't sale the kits anymore you have to buy it it in pieces like the hatch kit, the doors etc. I'm not 100% on that though. I've had my best luck with amazon.com, overall. Spend some time online, get the part numbers you want and google them for the best prices. In my experience.

Want any opinions on these seals before I go any further. Are they bulging too much? The valves will stay up by themselves so they are sealing pretty tight, I guess. I did #1 exhaust last night with a plastic piece of tubing to drive it down, bad decision. A 13mm deep socket works better, more control and the socket is perfectly even top and bottom. Thanks for looking.

Your pedals look look sorta worn, could be 160,000?

Thanks Rossiz but the seals I'm using have the metal base that can't be pushed down with your thumb. Most people use deep well sockets but I'm using a short piece of 1/2" PEX tubing. After seeing these I got the idea. Oh yeah, I've got the straw looking sleeves, cut in half, just enough to cover the stem's groove. I'm using Permatex assembly lube, that red stuff, and so far it's working great. I'm going oh so slow though.

The end that connects to the valve is smaller than the other end that connects to the tube coming out of the block. Here's a picture showing where it goes, the red line, and the block tube is covered with blue painters tape. here's another block picture with the tube sticking out,

With all the things that are missing, I wonder if the motor may be locked up? If I had a non running car I'd probably let somebody take some parts they needed. After you take the plugs out and squirt some oil in the cylinders you can put a 27mm socket on the big bolt inside the front pulley and try and turn the motor. Take the valve cover off and oil the cam stuff first though. They turn clockwise, looking from the front, towards the driver's side.

Thanks Madkaw. After a lot of reading, I can do it either way. I'm gonna measure how far down they can go without bulging the rubber at the top. Inner spring seats then the seals, valves next and so on. I had to add a new tool for the valve train work. Hands-free magnifying glass;

Clarify my rambling. Can I put valve seals on first then push the valve stems in from the bottom? Thank you!

Can I not put these viton seals on the guides then gently push the valve stems through? Seems easiest since they don't sit on the very bottom anyway. I could get the seals on first then put the condom over the stem tip and twist it through. Or should I do it the way tom monroe does the OE seals? Valves in then push the seal over the tip. Seems to me it's the same thing if the metal base of the viton fits tight onto the guides anyway.

I didn't what the heck that was. Workers polish a new sculpture in the shape of a giant oil bubble at a tourism resort built near the first drilling well of the Karamay oil field in Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region, China, August 9, 2015. Photo: Reuters "New sculpture in the shape of a giant oil bubble." 11 Aug, 2015Workers polish a new sculpture in the shape of a giant oil bubble at a tourism resort built near the first drilling well of the Karamay oil field in Xinjiang Uighur 11 Aug, 2015Workers polish a new sculpture in the shape of a giant oil bubble at a tourism resort built near the first drilling well of the Karamay oil field in Xinjiang 11 Aug, 2015Workers polish a new sculpture in the shape of a giant oil bubble at a tourism resort built near the first drilling well of the Karamay oil field in Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region.

Bottom left corner of this picture where it says "AFM connector". Some refurbished ones for sale, https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+afm&biw=1280&bih=620&tbm=shop&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAWoVChMI2IS5pYWkxwIVysyACh0XJwtB&dpr=1.25

When I first got my '77 it would suddenly die when I pushed in the clutch. The BCDD was out of adjustment. It's something that lets them gradually drop in RPMs to keep from stalling. Another thing that may have happened, the EFI connector by the battery may be loose? It may have just been letting you know who's the boss. Mine does some weird stuff sometimes too, but it has never left me stranded. Gremlins.

Here's where the AFM ground goes, thanks atlanticz for the picture.

Parts stores loan those out if you need one. There's a lot of diagnostic testing you can do with one. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/

Does anyone have any ideas on something I could use instead of buying the tool? I'm getting my ducks in a row and think I may need something to get these all the way down. From what I've read my fingers aren't tough enough. Thanks for any ideas. Cliff

Most of the local chains around here have a Dorman #85803 socket for $2.99. http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/electrical-socket/dorman-electrical-socket/600544_0_0/ http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Form&langId=-1&searchTerm=dorman+85803&vehicleIdSearch=-1&searchedFrom=header

I'm not too sure. I'm hoping the ground would've found another path. There's 3 bolts holding It to the plate. Maybe some more knowledgeable folks will jump in. I would think It would smell funny if it's burnt.

When you have debri inside the tank it takes awhile to get far enough in the system to cause problems. Before I found out about the filter right out of the tank I was buying the metal filters that go in the engine bay 2 at a time. I had to change them about once a month, didn't do that too long. Does it do better until the fuel level gets low? I remember reading where one guy was having problems with his but didn't have time to clean the tank so he put a strong magnet at the lowest point to attract the rust so he could drive it. On my carbed car it was so bad it wouldn't make out of the neighborhood. It would sputter until it just quit, then I could pull the hose and blow back towards the tank until I heard a gurgling sound, put the hose back on and drive it home. When I finally drop the tank here's what was in there, almost a pound of crap.

When I get back home from my sheep herding job, later today, I'll snap some.

From hybridz, a guy moved his fusible links inside the car.

My Nissan and Toyota daily drivers as well as my Zs have a place for them and the puller tool. Maybe they thought of them like the ashtrays?