siteunseen

Hey Rossiz, I thought I'd share some information I've gotten from Jeff G 78 on his 02 sensor placement on the header. He just put one in, Innovate MTX-L 3844, and said there is very little room down there where the header runs against the tranny so the right angles of the bung are critical. I know I had to grind off some of the transmission so my 6 to 1 header would fit on my '77, it was touching before the grinding. I'll put up what he told me in a PM, hopefully he won't mind. "The bung comes with the kit. Most bungs are 1/2" tall, but the one that comes with the kit is 1" tall, so if you buy a bung, you might want to get a tall one. Get a plug if you don't plan to install the sensor right away. The instructions say that the O2 sensor tip should be flush with the inside of the collector to protect it which is the reason for the tall bung. The sensor body and lead wire with a 1" tall bung is very tall, so finding a spot where it fits is critical. It has a range of angles where it can be installed from vertical. I came very close to screwing up. I thought I had the angle right when I marked it, but I underestimated the length of the sensor plus the wire. I should have tipped it up a few more degrees. As it is, the sensor wire touches the transmission and could rub. I will add some convolute to protect it. The bung is also flat on both ends. You will want to grind the pipe end to create a saddle so it fits the shape of the pipe to make welding easier. It took 5 minutes with a die grinder to get the shape close. A friend TIG welded it for me.

If you'll pull the valve cover off and the fuel line that goes to the rail then actuate the pumps arm by hand it should shoot gas out. You could have a clogged banjo bolt filter on the front carb, the float valve may not be opening or closing (I can't remember which allows fuel to flow through). Just throwing some common issues around. You can check for fuel in the float chamber by sticking a straw down the overflow bung on the cover instead of pulling it off. I know it's easy to get them off but those blasted cork gaskets are a pain for me.

Now they're Beck Arnley branded, http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/beck-arnley-electric-fuel-pump-152-0253/18035735-P

I actually thought about that after I got my new spring compressor set up for our heads, it's fun. I must admit the beers I was sucking down had me thinking about a lot of stuff. Siteunseen's Cylinder Head Shop Bartering Welcome

Thanks Mark. I've heard isopropyl alcohol, kerosene or mineral spirits. I will try this but honestly I didn't do the lapping properly. I only did a rough cut until the sound changed which in hindsight was just the grit wearing down. I'm not in any hurry especially now that the weather has finally loosened it's grip down here so I just picked up another set of valve seals and will do the lapping the right way then reassemble. I found some great spring compressors that make it soooo much easier it's almost fun.

I've got new set of seals coming in later today. I'm going to redo the lapping on all of them because I didn't read enough. I never did the fine grit finish. Lesson learned at $20 for another set of seals. I'm learning how to use my spring compressor too, that's a plus. That thing is fantastic once it's setup for our heads.

I can put a pen light down the runner and see light. It could be a bent valve but I'm going to lap the crap out of that little baby first. The springs are on nice and tight too. My thinking is what someone brought to my attention, maybe you?, about the cylinders compression with a leaking valve.

Get a wrecker service to say they've had it for 90 days and want to sale it for storage fees. There's a form they fill out, the state issues a title to the wrecker company. They sign the back and you carry it to the title department with a bill of sale then a title comes back in your name. Works in Alabama!

Yes, it's an E88 I just cleaned up and put new valve seals in. The E31 is the main head, waiting on machinist to get some basic stuff done. (You know what I mean on that)!

Zed Head that makes sense for my car's need to add more fuel, it had a huge vacuum leak. But after fixing all that it still needed the potinometer to fine tune the stumble at 2000 to 2500 RPMS.

"Dodge is a damn fine car! I ran over my first wife with a Dodge"

My experience with clamping off the return line, it ran better with more fuel pressure. I put a potentiometer inline and it runs like a champ now. Can't speak about the leak down problem though. Steve you're are a true Southern Gentleman. You inspire me to do better things in my life. Cliff

The others are me!

Thank you, thank you! I have read a little more into the lapping process and of course my short attention only allowed me to buy the stuff and start lapping, instructions to the wind. Now I realize I should have lapped with the straight dope first, then mixed a little water and go finer. Amazon has those two sided cans for $12, oil based too. I need to think of something else to buy for free shipping, that'll take about 1 minute. Thank You Captain! Oh yeah, I went to Back Forty last night and had a blast. My life's not over yet, the more I work on these cars the more I can walk away from them.

I would put a fuel pressure gauge on your car. You can put one on a 4 foot piece of hose and zip-tie it to the driver's wiper arm and watch it while you drive. $10 dollars worth of stuff from Lowes, the gauge is in the pool supply section as a replacement for the pool's filter gauge. Please do that before you spend $270. There's a lot of folks that run an aftermarket pump without any problems. My $.02 worth, I bought a new Bosch for $250 and there was nothing wrong with the original. I had to put a potentiometer on the coolant sensor wire, $5 from Radio Shack to finally get mine to pull hard all the time. It's all right here, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

Thank you Sir! After seeing that, I'm guessing they do. I tried lapping it a couple of times yesterday. It helped, I do believe. I'm going to try a more aggressive grit now.

Aww yeah, back like my favorite video.

Thank you for the offer, I'll keep that in mind because that's exactly what I bought ("Obviously")! I need to think more about my problem. I haven't tried any type of liquid yet, just the old mouth over hole redneck check. All of them, but that intake, I can suck until my eyes get blurry. That one, not as tight. I'll figure out how to measure the straightness of the valve first. Thank you.

I'm wondering if the valves rotate under tension while the motor is running. I had a leaky intake valve, turned it 180 degrees and now it's tightly sealing. When I put that head back in use will that valve possibly rotate in relation to the valve seat? Thanks

They all sealed up tight except #2 intake leaks a little. I'm about to do something stupid I know. I'm going to lap it without pulling it back through the valve seal. Q tips and patience hopefully will work.

That's very similar to what is on my 240 from Cullman, AL. Have you ever dealt with Paul's Auto Shop, Green Cove Road Huntsville, AL? I have receipts from where some other work was done from there in 2000.

That's really interesting. I found something that is close to what you have. They think the chain on the clutch disengages the cruise control. https://www.reddit.com/r/Datsun/comments/38shj5/what_the_hell_am_i_looking_at_1978_280z/

It's one of those things you just have to do to know what I mean. When I sat a new valve seal next to a bare valve guide I could judge where it should end up on the guide. Then using that other guys measurement of .550" from the top of the metal "barrel" base of the seals to the outer spring landing I had another reference point on the valve guides. The neat thing is both of those measurements hit at the bottom edge of the locking groove in the guides. So after lubing EVERYTHING, I pushed the valve through then put a cut in half "condom" over the valve tip. Put the lubed up seal over the end, holding pressure with my finger against the seal and valve tip I barely twisted the valve and it popped right through the rubber hole of the seal. Twisted it down onto the guide with my fingers as much as I could then with a 12mm deep well, I used a 13 the first time but the 12 was perfect, I started tapping until it covered the locking groove on the guide. Then went around the gap between the bottom of the barrel and the inner spring seat with angled feeler gauges, 026, 025, 020, 019 for 090" total. They are perfect I must say. They will stay up by themselves but if you tap the 2 that are next to each other on each cylinder they will do a slow motion styled fall until the valves hit the cardboard the head is sitting on. It's really easy once you get your feet wet.

Measure twice, cut once. That was so easy after I did some measuring. They look great and all drop at about the same rate, not staying up like the first two, too tight of a seal. .080" all the way around the seal bases and the inner spring seat. Thanks for the feedback, it gives me confidence. 8^)

Well I have a benchmark now, I read all the other pages of the thread on hybridz about those seals. I don't have an attention span. "I installed so the top of the steel barrel was about .550" above the height of the naked outer spring perch. This seems to leave plenty of room inside."