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I used some stuff from Eastwood, Diamond Clear Satin. I'm hopeful it won't yellow or peel off. It doesn't lay on top, it soaks into the fresh aluminium I'd glass bead blasted. It was my first attempt at sealing aluminium, I love that fresh look. Thanks for doing this, I'll be interested in your findings. The head on the bottom has been media blasted and sealed. The one on top has been steam cleaned at a machine shop. EDIT: I'm pretty sure these are after the Diamond Clear, the one above was just after cleaning.

Staying true to the Topic Title? Mystery fuel warning light

I'll add some height to the mole hill. When I was younger I always forgot to take that thing off before I put a new plug in my KX 80 dirt bike. It was a 2 stroke and I went through some plugs lugging around the neighborhoods trying to be quiet.

Woesa wowsa! I'm a frayed you're right Mr Knot. Thats been run a good bit more than I first realized, using my new phone and old eyes. Don't get another head off ebay, you'll get screwed. Maybe get by with another cam and rocker?

Happen to mine after a rebuild. Lash pad or rocker arm guide, I've heard them called both, came off the vale spring retainer then the rocker arm slid off the side. Shouldn't be a problem. Find the lash pad. Pry the valve spring down with a long screwdriver using the cam as a pry point, in between the slick lobes, the rough part of the cam. When the springs are compressed you can slide the rocker back on. Do a valve height adjustment and it should be fine. Most likely feel off because the valve was too loose. I flipped out when it happened to me but after hearing from the members here on how to fix the problem it was really easy. Never happened again either. 12 years sitting you'll need some other preventive work before cranking your car.

Air filters for your carburetors? If so, which ones do you have? I have the P/N for the stock oblong filter from Nissan, 16546-E3210, and K&N has a replacement filter. Nissan,

Hey George, I've got the Nissan P/Ns for the heater hoses and valve. It all cost around $100 from my local dealership. Let me know if you want them. Cliff

Mine had a terrible shake when I first bought it, rotors were warped and the tires had flat spots. New tires and brake pads, had the rotors turned too. No more shaking steering wheel. Here's a write up on going to a ZX electronic ignition and getting rid of the points, big improvement. Not sure what the difference would be for an automatic, dual points? The 240Z wiring diagram is towards the end of the article. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html You can get a rebuilt ZX distributor from just about any parts store, the one for a '79 is a good one. You'll need a ZX coil and distributor cap and rotor button, wider gapped plugs too. Cost me less than $200 for everything but I had the ZX mounting collar already, you can buy one from zcarsource.com, http://www.zcarsource.com/distributor-mounting-block-280zx-79-83-used_8_77859_66512.html If I remember right, the ZX coil is 1.5 amps, I use a Crane PS20 Fireball.

You can bypass the gas tank with a gas can. Run a hose from the gas can to the "IN" nipple of the pump, then run a smaller hose from the fuel rail's return line into the gas can. A 2.5 gallon plastic can fits perfect in between the radiator and grill on my 240. Or when it won't restart, pull the supply hose off and blow into it until you hear gurgling from the tank. I'll show you what was causing mine to quit after a few minutes then restart after all the crud settled. Not rust, it wouldn't stick to a magnet, just crud that would crumble like dirt in my fingers.

Funny how life works out for good folks.

Sounds like the flux capacitor to me, you need to go back to last week. Naw, I'm kidding. You'll have to give a lot more hints to the problem. I'd start by looking at the spark plugs.

I wish I could hear a squeak out mine now, too loud. Going one day this week and have a resonator installed.

Learned to put the head on a block on a cart with wheels.

My fuel light is to the right of the map light, under the clock. '77 280Z

Done! Had to use a lash pad off the p79, thinner brought it closer to the pivot end. They're not perfect by any stretch but they look good to me for a temporary e88. Learned some things too. Happy Hour has started at my local pub (my house).

Oh, okay you mean checking the wipe patterns with the hot specs. But I should go back to cold for the first cranking. Thank you Blue.

But doesn't heat expand metals, so an exhaust valve set at .10 cold will expand to .12 when hot on it's on?

What to do? Tom Monroe says do the run in set at the cold specs, then after you shut it off set to hot. I have a Schneider cam kit that I'll be using someday, , and the cam card says set the valves to cold specs too. It'll be awhile before I crank it so I'll read up and see what others are doing. I'm going to continue checking the wipe with them set at .10 and .08.

Okay, that makes sense. Before I crank it and run it 2,000rpm for 20 or 30 minutes I should set them on HOT specs. They are a little wider, great thinking. Thanks a million, again!

Hot??? I've read cold, a few times. I'm lucky this is my hobby. I've learned something I've never taken time to practice, patience.

I've been doing one then removing it. I turn the toe of the lobe 2 times over the pad. The dye barely comes that way, if I put moly lube it wouldn't I don't think.

Thank you for confirming what i was thinking. I over reacted a bit, anxious I guess. So far it's easy, just slow. Luckily I have 8 .175 lash pads and I had to use one so far. I think it maybe too thick but it brought the wipe closer to the valve side than the pivot end of the arm. Still not perfect but much better. I'm doing the easy ones first and using a spare rocker arm and a big screwdriver to compress the springs.

Dykem dye on the rockers contact pads first, let them dry. Grease the cam lobes. Do one rocker at a time. Should I put any grease on the painted rocker pad or leave them dry for the centering wipe check?

Mine would buck and stumble until it got over 2,500 rpms, then pull hard. I couldn't figure it out and carried it to a mechanic that worked on these cars back in the 80s. He adjusted everything back to spec and the problem was still there. He clamped the return line to raise the fuel pressure and it ran better. I almost bought an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the high dollar one that works on these cars, Airtex maybe? Anyway, after reading some post from Fastwoman about the ECUs drifting out of specs from heat and old age I put a potentiometer in the cabin from Radio Shack. Ran some speaker wire from the bullet connectors through the firewall, it is still laying in the passenger's floorboard. It's a volume knob type that cost $5. After playing around with it my car runs great now. I can turn it and get better gas milage on the highway, I can turn it and watch the temp gauge get cooler or hotter, it has been fun to play with. Now I want to permanetly install one under the dash, right before the ECU, with a finer adjustment using a small screwdriver. Like this, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/37549-purs-like-a-kitten/page-4 Post #66

More vulnerable to what, NOT getting away with cheating people? Good lawyers?