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My "more air more fuel quicker spark equals more rpm" theory is not true for SUs. They' adjust for the air flow by the piston lowering and raising. Sorry

My thinking is/was going to #2 gives me 4 degrees timing advance which in turn would allow me to back up the distributor timing 4 degrees, evening things out initially. Then when the motor is broken in and loosened up I could get more power by adjusting the carbs and adding that 4 degrees back to the distributor's timing. Before I rebuilt the motor I was at full advance and it topped out at 6,000 rpms. Now I've opened up the ports to match the head gasket and added a header with 2.5" full exhaust, moving more air leaning out my carbs hopefully. Then I want to add more fuel and more distributor timing for more rpms. It's a new timing kit, yes, and it is tight. Both bright links are on their sprocket dimples, cam and crank. So at the very worst, what y'all are saying is that I will still have my distributor all the way clockwise, full advance? EDIT: Could I take a Dremel and lengthen the hole on the adjustment plate of the distributor for more advance? I have the '79 ZX E12-80 distributor. EDIT #2: I think I'm worried about a problem I had before rebuilding. Hopefully it won't be there now and the advance will not need to be as severe as before.

Thank you all. Madkaw, that makes it too easy! DJWarner I had to run my distributor all the way clockwise before the rebuild so I'm hoping #2 will give me some adjustment there. If not I'll go to #3. When I rebuilt my 2.8 I set it up on #3 from the beginning and have been very happy with how it runs. I won't drive them enough to stretch the chain. Honsowetz says it in his book like NVZEE posted and I noticed on this build Tom Monroe uses #2 on the L20 he builds in his book. Zed Head, yes the tight side is tight, I learned that the hard way when I was trying to time the oil pump last year. Always go clockwise with the crank bolt and never back up, make another rotation instead. I really need to use the FSM more, I wish I knew it as well as you do.

Does this look about right for number two with a new chain? All my other indicators are showing top center and I'm thinking if it's advanced it should be ahead of the thrust plate line. The dowel notch is to the right side of the line half way. Please let me know if I'm wrong, it happens often. Thanks, Cliff

I apologize for even asking without reading back over the older post. That's the motor you "STOLE". I remember now and yes, you'll be buying tires.

Yes, I would agree it's been cut. Do you have dished pistons or flat topped?

I had big plans for that 240 but decided it was too nice to hot rod so I'm leaving it as stock as I can, 2.4 liter. Matched the ports to the intake and header, smoothed everything down on that temporary E88. I'm going to refresh the original E88 this winter and swap them out someday. I have an E31 with 280 valves just sitting waiting on steel valve seats, damn machinist! When I finally get it done I have a cam kit to put in and then on top of an F54 bored .30" over but I can't decide what car will get the better motor, most likely I'll put it into my 280. Cam kit from Schneider, http://schneidercams.com/270-80_FL6.aspx

That's funny. I've sprayed everything with white lithium grease and it guarantees to stick and lubricate.

They have it down pat, that's for sure! down pat (or cold) phrase of down 1. memorized or mastered perfectly. "she had the baby's medical routine down pat"

Here's a shot of the switch for the choke light and the plug for it. The light is yellowish orange and is below the radio on the console, seems like there is a red hazard light there too? I just woke up and can't recall yet.

I can't show it now, it looks like I'm having a boy's baby shower now. The next pics will be with it sitting in the bay.

When it does get wet, washing or rain, pop the hatch open and dry the flat area. They stopped the drip edge about six inches short and it puddles on the sides.

Boy oh boy am I jealous of your car. It's so nice and shiny, everywhere! I'm finally ready to bolt my tranny up and drop it the motor/tranny back in, when my transmission guy gets off his arse.

I had cleaned my 280s a few years earlier and learned a few tricks that made it easier. Muriatic acid cleaned it and Red-Kote was what I used to line it. Cost about $50 for everything to clean the inside of the tank, $30 for the red-kote, $10 acid and $10 for a quart of acetone.

The hardline under the battery is pretty bad on the outside from battery acid dripping on it I suppose. I'm just going to cut off the last few feet and clamp on some rubber fuel hose up to the fuel filter. I have a clear filter right out of my gas tank's supply hose, Fram G2 worked best for the 240's smaller hose. I ran a glass filter at the beginning of the fuel rail for a month or so and changed the stock filter on the passenger's side a couple of times. It took about a month to get clear fuel up to the glass filter at the rail, I don't drive it much. If you're brave enough to try it, blow some high pound fishing line through the hardline and pull a .22 caliber brass gun cleaning brush through. I was too worried about it getting stuck, that's an old trick my Dad told me to do. I think blowing air and maybe some lacquer thinner through there should be adequate. I just put extra filters on mine and changed them when they got dirty.

There's a evaporation system in the hatch, passenger's side. The hoses get hard after some time so that makes dropping the tank a little more of a hassle. You should replace those as well. Nissan hoses that are still available are HIGH DOLLAR. I bought all mine from O'reilly's for $60. There's a good thread on here showing what I'm talking about. Let me see...here it is, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/24181-rating-the-factory-240z-fuel-vent-hoses/ Here's another good read, lots of info towards the end on hose sizes and ways to make the 180 degree bend, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/17542-treating-insideoutside-of-gas-tank-with-por15-products-and-removing-evaporation-tank/page-3 Some photos of mine after sitting with a half tank for many years.

Thanks for any replies first of all. Is the crank nose pulley originally the block color, blue/green? Is the TDC pointer yellow cadmium? If so any recomendations on a paint color alternative? Maybe a brass or gold hobby paint? Thanks, Cliff

The starter won't fall off if you remove that one bolt. Clean that area with a wire brush or sandpaper to get a good ground. Do you really need to replace the whole cable or just put a new terminal on it, the part that goes around the battery post? They crack and break pretty easy and are replaceable.

I'd buy one of those.

Finally got some me/Z time. It's a little sissy looking baby blue in the pictures, flash I guess, but it looks okay in my garage and then the engine bay. EDIT: the crank nose pulley will be changed to a pinkish BLACK. Looks bad painted blue looking here; It's a work in slow motion progress.

Well that went right over my head! Easy to do. If it runs take it to a machinist.

maybe you can read the part number from Nissan for the bigger one. I think he said it was for their Titan pickup, been a few years since I bought one. Seems like it was a M10x1.50. I did the bit increment method then tapped the threads.

Here's more helpful reading that may solve some problems. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

It didn't bond with the primer. I've painted a lot of stuff in my life and this is a first. The only time something like this was when I put semi gloss latex on an oil painted door at a friends place. It's like a bonding agent is missing and I do lightly sand between coats. It's all over with and nice and slick now so I was venting earlier, leaving bad feedback on our forum too.