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I used to put a spare behind the tag, on one of the tag fastener screws/bolts. Then I found out that was everyone's secret hide. Now I have them zip tied on the rear frame behind the rear tire. BTW, my USA '72 does not have the spare key spot we're talking about.

Seems like there's a rod with cotter pin that goes to auto transmission you could unhook and try and move the selector to neutral. I've seen that somewhere before, not positive it's a Z thing. Hopefully it's just stuck drums.

Click outside of the ad and it'll go away.

The temperature here has been ideal for Z trips but the flipside, time to do as much property maintenance as I can before the heat and humidity set in. I am trying to figure out a "bubble boy" with A/C I could get in my car wearing. Summer hatch with a small window unit running off a generator? Well damn. Can't add photo??? Anyhow, I'm loving this weather here.

Well there's your problem right there, California Datsun. I used Hasting chrome faced rings on my 240 rebuild. Any machine shop can get those and the price was reasonable.

You can also put the pickup hose in a Jerry can of gas and bypass the whole tank and crap. That's how I nailed my my problem down. A 2 gallon jug fits perfect in front of the radiator. Bungee cord to keep it upright.

Thump on the tank to make sure you have gas. The gauge could be off. Mine is. If you haven't yet, put a Fram G2 filter right out of the tanks supply hose. That way you can see if it has gas if this happens in the future. Take the gas cap off and see if it'll crank. Sometimes the vents get clogged after cleaning and sealing the tank. Try sticking a red straw off a spray can, WD-40 type, down the vent bung on the float chamber. If the carb has fuel that straw will be "bouncy" feeling. Good luck with it. I couldn't get out my neighborhood for a week until I figured out my problems.

I put a few gallons a year in my '72, it's 93 with 10% ethanol. To be honest the most problems I've read on here is a result of low fuel chambers. Get the floats right then you can adjust the carbs & timing correct. I tried and tried for a month then went to basics like my Dad taught me, now it's rock solid.

I remember Fastwoman talking about Goodyear EZ coils for bending rubber hose. That may be in the links Namerow already posted? I'm using my phone and it's a pain trying to type.

I drove one backwards to get home. Had to replace the tranny. The fluid flow is next to nothing going backwards.

I found this early this morning looking for a paint brush. The return is the small hole and as I understand it's the restriction that makes up the fuel pressure for our carbs.

I like the p90 better after comparing them side by side plus better designed chamber than the e31. I'm not liking it too much after I unshrouded them for the bigger vales. The runners in the p90 are better from what I've read, straighter better flow. P90 is the dirtier one.

Paint store and 88 two bedroom apartments in 11 buildings I'm stuck with "managing". Paint mixing, rental property, cylinder head repair, manicures and income taxes done here. Taxidermy work is seasonal.

My '72 has what I call wire arms. 2 wires about the same as clothes hanger size. 280 has a solid looking arm.

I'll know tomorrow. I have the e31, how to modify book for measurements, my dial calipers for measurements and my Sony high res camera in my trunk to take to the paint store. Feed it all on here and see what responses/ideas I get.

Check out this spreadsheet walter moore put together. Distributor advance curves.xls

Something else I'm considering. Cam on top of flat piston block. Keep the EFI with my potentiometer fuel enrichment tweak. I can richen it up so much it will go dead. Wonder how that will work with the .460 cam?

I bought a .460 Schneider cam kit in 2015 to put in my e31 that has the new bigger valves. I tried shrouding the valves and smoothing the intake runners. Am not happy with what I did so it got shelved. Now I found this p90 that is a better version of the e31. Peanut shaped combustion chambers are newer and supposedly better. I'll post as many measurements that I can between the two asap and let you all help me decide what head to put $850 cam kit in. Running a ben moore paint store by myself and it's feast or famine there for 10 hours a day. So this gives me something to do during slow times which seem less now that I'm the paint king #1. Anyhow I'm getting my fingernails greasy again which is nice and raises my Datsun blood pressure again after a 5 year hiatus. More tomorrow...

So far so good. Now I know why it was so clean and made that slight pop noise when the valves came out. Dover cylinder head did a refresh sometime in it's past. The heat sensor was on the rear.

I feels soft and squishy like assembly lube. I'm thinking the p.o had the good sense to coat it real good before storage.

#10

Definitely glue with fuel resistant black rtv.

Trade with you? That's cool as hell right there.

Just realized your pic is a front carb. Mine are the rear. Things look a lot different.