Captain Obvious

I'm kinda confused by a couple things. First is... What are you considering a "new method" for sealing? If the new method is the use of steel bushings pressed into the carb body, then you are mistaken. That's not new. That's how the carbs have been produced all along. Steel bushings pressed into the bodies, and (presumably) honed to alignment and size after being put into place. In other words, the carbs never ran the throttle shafts directly against the soft aluminum of the body. There was always a steel sleeve in there. Second thing that confuses me is... Why?? I mean, I see there are clearly impact marks and someone broke both the body and the steel bearing with an inappropriate amount of poorly aimed force, but why? What would make someone resort to hammering on the end of the throttle shaft? Was it stuck SO bad in the body that was the only way they could get the shaft out??? Why???

Those are cylinder head temp sensors for the ZX. Used on the P79 and P90.

Haha! Like this:

Yup. We got into some of that in those threads I posted: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/66276-brakes-dragging/?&page=2 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/66168-brake-master-cylinder-identification/

Any outlet restriction would not matter either*. The master cyl bore bore is the same diameter and the two circuits are in series. That means that at the master cylinder (and until downstream of the proportioning valve), It will be the same pressure in both circuits. The circuit closest to the firewall won't build pressure until the circuit towards the front of the car builds pressure (or bottoms out mechanically). In fact, neither circuit will build braking pressure until they both do (or one of the two bottoms out). Maybe there's something "safer" in having the main braking circuit (the front axle) be the one that builds pressure as the second circuit.. Or maybe there is less volume required to be moved in the drum brake circuit before the shoes contact the drum so they put that one at the front of the master cylinder? If so, it would take less pedal travel before the other circuit (front disks) builds pressure. Brake experts would know for sure. And that's not me. *Except on transient changes.

Nice!!

I don't have pics of the older style of master cylinder exploded, but this is what the later one (with the front circuit closest to the firewall) looks like: Here are a couple other threads with pics and significant discussion about master cylinder operation: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/66276-brakes-dragging/?&page=2 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/66168-brake-master-cylinder-identification/

Hahaha!!!! @madkaw

That valve is supposed to be open when the piston is at rest (not pushed in) and closed when the piston is pushed in. In other words... When your foot is pushing the clutch pedal in, that valve is closed. It opens by catching on the little retaining pin you were questioning about the color. The function of that valve is allows fluid to fill the plunger area if necessary, but then close off when the piston starts to move so hydraulic pressure can build. The tip of the pin rides in that long groove, and when the piston is at rest, that pin pushes against a small weak spring and opens the valve. Valve closed: Valve open: Easy-peasy.

There's no way I would trust epoxy on that. You need a replacement.

From the fische... From Sep.-'71 To Jun.-'72) JET-NEEDLE (N-54) - 16354-E8800 JET-NEEDLE (N-58) - 16354-E8810 I'm thinking the N-54 is for the manual trans and the N-58 is for the auto.

Excellent! So I've got an EK hatch (I know it's not really an EK, but all the cool kids call them EK's). It's my daily and it's never intended to be the project. It looks like asss with failed paint and it's a slow pig, but I'm in it for the gas mileage, not for the performance. Only thing that annoys me is my prior daily was a First Gen Teg, and it was fun to drive. Not super-performance, but way better than my current Civic. And the thing is.... It got about one MPG MORE than my EK. Enjoy, and try to remember where the project time and money should go!! Haha!

Haha!! How far from the original subject do we want to stray? With apologies to the OP....... I've got a 6th gen Civic (96-00). I always hated the steering ratio. Always felt like I needed to readjust my hands in the middle of a turn because I needed more wheel rotation. Got fed up one day and started experimenting... The pinion gear on the end of the power steering spool valve has eight teeth. The similar pinion gear from a third gen Integra (93-97) has NINE teeth (one more than the Civic). Problem is the spool valve bodies are different so you can't just toss the whole Integra body onto the Civic steering rack. However after poking around with both of them in my laboratory, I determined that the GUTS are interchangable. So it's a "simple matter" of pressing both valve assemblies apart and reassembling the Civic valve body using the Integra spool valve. Then reattach the modified spool valve onto the original steering rack and put in back in the car. "A child could do it." Take the valve off the rack: Pressing a spool valve apart on the hydraulic press: Spool valves. Integra on top. Civic on bottom. Note that the Integra has a tighter pitch on the gear: Pinion gears. Civic on left. Teg on right: How did it turn out? Fantastic. Would I do it again? If I had the sub-frame out - Maybe. If I wasn't going in for something else? - Absolutely not.

Well that's my DD and not supposed to be the project, so I put as little time and effort into it as I can. LOL! So... The answer to the question about what engine did I put back in is "The same one that came out." I only pulled it because it needed work done on multiple sides of the engine and at that point I thought it was just simpler to pull the whole thing and do everything with the engine out. Belt side needed new timing belt. Bottom side needed oil pan gasket. Rear side needed new engine mount (taught kid how to drive stick). Transmission side needed new main seal and clutch, etc. So since I needed to work on left, right, rear, and bottom, I just pulled the whole thing out to do the work. I did do one "bonus" item... I pulled the subframe and put in an Integra steering gear for a faster steering ratio. But that car is not the project.

Over the past few years I've purchased a couple things from Spark Surplus and can attest for their legitimacy. I'm not sure where their "surplus" comes from, but they are a legit entity. Don't always know any details about what they have, but with that many auctions, who would?

Did this a couple years ago on my daily:

Thanks for the offer bud! Appreciate it!

Thanks Bud! Yeah, I'm OK, but honestly have been better. I got covid at Thanksgiving and am still working out a couple kinks. Still. Hoping 2023 is better than the end of 2022.

I don't even know what to say. This should be ripe with all sorts of great comments, but I'm in analysis/paralysis.

For some additional input about air dams... @Av8ferg

Yeah, if I took my car into the dealer for a problem and it came back to me with that huge thing on the hood "to fix it", I would not be very happy about it! "Massive"... In your part of the world, that reminds me of other things like "snarlin", "bone dry", "hobblin" and the Good Ship Grease.

Couple comments... First, the Obvious one. That's a master cylinder, not a slave. Second... Be real careful about burrs kicked up into the cylinder bore as a result of the tapping operation. If there's a burr in the area swept by the cup seal, it'll chew it up right quick!

I'm pretty sure the brakes are supposed to rub when you hit the brakes.

It's part of a line from an old Beatle's song. "No thank you please, it only makes me sneeze. Then it makes it hard to find the door." But they mispronounce the word "the" a little bit, and it sounds more like "dee", At least to me... After sniffing the houseplants. https://youtu.be/Ag6wyMNLv_A?t=34