Captain Obvious

Q - Overheating after modifications, what am I overlooking? A - The cork you left stuck inside the radiator outlet tube. Glad you found your smoking gun and fixed the problem, and I think we've all been there, done something like that!

Well that's certainly cheap enough. If that really works for the 29F400, I'd' spend the fifty bucks to buy one of those. You wouldn't happen to have any 29F400's laying around to test with, would you?

ZH, I wouldn't be surprised at all to learn that the same base injector with different lengths of rubber tubing resulted in multiple Bosch part numbers. Muddies the waters looking for potential replacements, but makes perfect sense. And thanks for the additional info. I read through the old mailing list blog, and there's some good stuff in there. I really wish I could figure out some way to verify that the injectors in my car are appropriate. My PO was known to make some questionable choices in the pursuit of performance, and I don't know if he thought "well larger injectors will give more gas, and more gas means more power, right?" That would be the kind of thing he would do, and I have no way to know for sure. I guess I could assume the prevalent belief target of 188cc/min to be accurate and measure a couple of mine to see if they're anywhere close to that.

I don't know when some of those modifications started coming from the factory (instead of being done at the dealers), but I think by the time they got the 74, most of that stuff was landing already done. Like the holes in the air cleaner and the fuel line insulation. Dlobi, If you hadn't seen that 73-74 fuel modification documentation before, there's some really great stuff in there. And it's clear that a lot of the modifications and remediation work was being done "on the fly". I've heard lots of stories about heat related issues with the carbs, but thankfully I've never personally experienced it. And not to turn this into a for sale thread, but I think I've got a spare flat top air cleaner around here that I could part with. Send me a PM if you're interested.

I don't have one. I'm just curious... Have you got a pic of what you're looking for? Good luck on the hunt!

I agree with your old timer. Same situation as the U-joint yokes to me. I think you are putting an indeterminate, movable squishy plastic surface in an area where it is important to have a predictable hard determinate surface. Does that make me an old timer as well?

Thanks guys. I've continued my web digging, and it just gets worse. Fans out like a spider web to a thousand different numbers and options. I've got aftermarket (salmon colored) in my car now, so I can't even look there. I also can't test them and use that as a "standard" because they were put in by my PO and I have no idea what he used, or if they are the correct ones or not. Zed Head, Can you please double check that P/N you mentioned? There seems to be at least one dyslexic style typo in that number, and maybe more than one? Can you take a look? Other avenues and places where I've found info? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I've got two Bosch catalogs here that don't have a listing for the Z, but have a listing for the ZX. Both of those catalogs list Bosch P/N 1 660 062 060 for the injector. But it's not the typical 0 280 start to the P/N and I can find very little info online about it. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Tomco catalog says their P/N 15511: http://www.tomco-inc.com/Catalog/fuel injectors (port).pdf And there's an interchange section near the end of the catalog where they say Tomco 15511 crosses to a whole bunch of Bosch injectors, including the 105. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Catalog found here: http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/NISSAN_FUEL_INJECTORS.html Says Bosch 0 280 150 125 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Bostech (remanufacturer) catalog says: http://www.bostechfuel.com/gfiquickcat.pdf Lists a whole bunch of Nissan numbers and crosses them to their rebuilt version Bostech number MP4210. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I don't think there was ever a manual summer/winter flat top air cleaner. The FSM makes a big deal about the ATC (Automatic Temperature Control) air cleaner. They got rid of the manual summer/winter valve and used the new fangled automatic one instead. One of the many, many Z design items that marked the steady slide of "automatic" and "convenience" from 72 until 96. You know... As the weight went up. If you've still got a nipple unconnected, I can take a pic here if that would help. I (think) still have a 74 air cleaner around here somewhere and can take a pic of the back and label all the connections. And about the snorkel... There's no way that snorkel is the limiting factor on the amount of air getting to the engine. Those little holes surely can't matter for the 200 cc displacement change between 2400 and 2600. I wasn't there when they designed it, but I just don't see it.

Does anyone have a number for the flow rate of the original OEM factory injectors? And how about a Bosch P/N for the original? Anyone have documentation for this kind of info? I'm sure it's out there, but I'm also sure someone else has already gone hunting and has that info at their fingertips.

Glad to help continue the existence of a set of flat tops. So I got a question... That nipple on the back of the air cleaner is supposed to go over to the throttle opener solenoid, but you've already got a vacuum tube connected to the solenoid. Looks like it's leading up to the front carb somewhere? What's that hose connected to? And my read on the little holes on the air cleaner goes like this: When the incoming air is warm the ATC control valve on the snout brings in air direct from the snout opening. But when the incoming air is cold, it changes the valve and pulls in air heated from the exhaust manifold. But even when the valve is set to the exhaust manifold intake position, you'll still always mix in a little bit of cool fresh air from those little holes.

The holes are stock. The clip on the top of the air cleaner is meant to hold a vacuum tube that wraps around the front snout air intake and actuates the thermostatic temperature controlled air flappy thingy. The one that pulls air from the exhaust manifold until it warms up. And as mentioned above, the small hose nipple connects a tube to the throttle opener control valve. It's the clean atmospheric source to disable the system when the speed is below 10 mph. It should connect to the solenoid valve here:

Haha!! I was wondering if that was going to go completely unnoticed. I'm sure you've seen deeper trolling than that! It's not trolling if it's true though!!

Haha! So the "E" stands for "empirical"! That's awesome! I never knew that! Drilling that hole through the center isn't going to be a huge amount of fun either. Sounds simple, but probably won't be as simple as it sounds on paper. They use a special cutting edge geometry for brass that isn't as grabby. You'll know what I'm talking about the first time the bit grabs and spins your chuck in the tailstock. You have a set of collets for the lathe? They lend themselves well to this kind of small, high accuracy work. It's nice to be able to work on one end, cut-off, and then spin the part around to work on the other end with pretty good accuracy using just a collet. And your idea of making a block to help locate the holes is a good one. I do that kind of stuff all the time. I've got so many little special purposed fixtures around here that I've forgotten what some of the old ones were for! I'm certainly no machinist, but you know how to reach me if you need a sympathetic ear!

Cool. Sounds like a healthy path. But why are you trading down from the 77 to a 240?

Right, and that's my point. If it's so friken ugly now that it simply won't sell without a coat of paint, then I'd be worried you're putting lipstick on a pig. On the other hand, if it's not so bad now, then let the new owner make that decision. Just don't spray a quick, cheap coat of paint over poor prep and rusty metal and then offload a temporarily, shiny looking, hidden rust problem car onto some other unsuspecting owner in... where are you... in the US. How about some pics of the car as it is and we can give some more detailed input?

I don't want to go on the cart! Seriously though... I'm just a guy with a latte. Those diagonal holes aren't gonna be the easiest thing in the world to do. You'll soon be in the market for a milling machine. Slippery slope I tell ya!!

Here's a link to the thread where we were discussing such matters. My photo links are dead because Photobucket SUCKS!!! but there are some other pics in there that still work: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56185-how-do-i-hate-rebuilt-components-brake-booster/

I'll provide a different opinion.... If you are painting the car "just to sell it" and I were the buyer, then I would probably prefer that you not paint it at all. That way, not only could I choose the style and color of paint I prefer, but I could also verify the integrity of the underlying metal instead of having potential issues hidden under fresh paint only to have them become visible shortly after purchase. The last two cars I bought were painted by the PO with the express intention of selling the car and I would have paid more for both of them if they hadn't been painted in the first place. So it all depends on who you're after. Maybe offer the car at two prices? Painted, or as it stands?

I'd be happy to, but honestly, if you actually saw arcing on the PC board, it's probably a goner. Was it a real expensive unit?

Wow. That guy really like$ his parts!! $$$

Stanley Jordan. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3gHtPLXQOI

No Joe, I did not. I took mine off and put them back on, but they seemed in good enough condition that I reused my originals. Other owners like @Mike W have though. I think there are some pics on the earlier pages of my rebuild thread from Mike.

Looking at your pic, it looks like the front carb linkage is way open? The part that is supposed to be in contact with the tip of the adjustment screw is a quarter inch away from the screw? Kinda hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like something else is holding the front carb linkage down? But (from a distance) it looks like the center rod is assembled in the right location. Can you take a closer up shot of where that center linkage makes contact to the front carb tab?

BTDT. Grew back. Thankfully. Actually, the last time I hit a tree was the first time I ever rode a four-runner. I'd been riding cycles for years, but had never been on a four wheeler before. I was going five miles an hour just to get the feel of the thing. Came time to make a turn and I was leaning just as hard as I could, but the damn thing just wouldn't turn! No matter how far I leaned!! Ran into a row of ornamental trees in slow motion. Only things that got hurt that day were my pride and reputation. And yes, I've figured it out now... I just have to turn off the cycle reflexes and turn on the four wheel reflexes.

I don't know what that hole is for either, but my theory is the same as site's. A tooling hole for a locating pin to aid in dash alignment and installation. I may have mentioned this already, but I think I'm going to sell mine. The lack of focus from other drivers is so scary. The constant worrying takes some of the joy out of it.