Captain Obvious

Haha!! Here's hoping it worked. Datsun cracklin. Still want to see pics if you can figure out how to get them posted.

I don't remember where all the attachment screws are for holding the foam onto the steel frame, but once the dash is on the bench, taking the gauges out is easy. I would probably just pull them. Do anything you can to make the install of the more delicate foam portion easier.

I've been musing about the same thing. I will hopefully have a F54/P79 combo in my car sometime in the not too distant future and I've been thinking about how I will dress the motor when it's in there. I could redress it as a 77 using just the block and head. That would use my original throttle body, intake manifold, and ECU. Or I could bring over the entire system from 83 including the ECU. The biggest thing there is that I would need to incorporate an O2 sensor. Or I could do something hybrid like use some of the 83 parts (like the intake manifold) but keep the original 77 ECU and wiring. As far as interchangeability goes for the intake manifold... I compared 77 and 83 intake manifolds and throttle bodies, and I believe they are interchangeable. Mounting holes are in the same spots and the diameters of the airflow ports are the same. The throttle butterfly plate is the same diameter and all that, so I don't think there would be any problem mixing and matching them. I don't think the ECUs would know the difference between any of them. The BCDD for 83 does not reside on the throttle body, but is separate and located on the underside of the manifold. So if you're mixing and matching, you would need to pick one. The only other complication I could find was that the inlet side of the throttle body where the ducting connects is a little smaller. It's the same ID so there's no functional change, but the OD is a little smaller. Not the end of the world, but something you would need to address. I don't know about other years, but that's what I found when comparing 83 to 77.

You use peanut oil, or motor oil? Pics or it didn't happen.

Looks good. Drilling and tapping that phenolic was a treat, wasn't it. I would describe it as "crisp" and easy to machine. Looking forward to hearing how it works when you get the meter on it.

I think the phenolic will take to drilling and tapping quite well. I'm with you though on how robust the threads are. I think the threads will be of good form and quality when initially formed, but there just won't be much meat there. Don't over tighten the adapter fitting, and you would probably be OK. I agree that something to seal the threads would be a good idea. You need it to seal, but you don't want to crank it in too tight to achieve that seal. I think silicone sealant would be a good choice too. Doesn't have to be a thread locker. Just something to seal the threads. Good luck with that project. I think it would be cool to try that balancer tool on the Z carbs!

All better? And no more hanging brakes? Or haven't you had your nightly spin around the area yet?

I wouldn't touch that carp with a ten foot pole.

LOL! I should have known!

Cool. Never heard of such a device. I like it. I think drilling and tapping vacuum holes to test vacuum would work great. My only concern is that I'm not sure the phenolic spacer is thick enough to do that without cracking it. You might have to go right into the carb body or intake manifold right behind the carbs.

What did it taste like? "Sure glad I didn't step in it!"

Nope. They all looked like arse. The only one that stood out from the rest was an exhaust valve from a different cylinder. That one looked like bent arse. Of course, there's no telling if my PO swapped the pistons around. Based on the fact that the "45" piston is in the bore marked "4", I don't think so, but at this point, who knows!!

Absolutely possible. Sometimes the interior lining deteriorates and acts like a check valve. Sometimes a steel mount will rust and effectively expand inward constricting the hose. Not saying that's what happened to yours, but it does happen. Although I actually consider it more likely that the questionable floating cylinder design was getting stuck on the backing plate.

You guys are the best. Stinky Wizzleteats would be pleased. Glad to know I'm in good company!!

I found the numbers on the block. Here's where the "34" pistons live. I got five of these: And I got one of these. This is where the "45" piston lives: I haven't measured the bores to try to figure out a correlation between the actual numbers and the measurements. It's another of those, "because then I would know" issues. The "STD" piston lives in one of the number three marked cylinders. I have no doubt it's aftermarket installed by my PO, but I don't know why. No idea what happened that necessitated replacement of one piston. But I do know that the block wasn't bored.

Welcome to the spindle pin club. These people who build spindle pin pullers and think that's the answer... Now you know the truth.

Nice. I don't think you're happy enough.

Haha!! It always does, my friend!!

https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/interior/a-pillar-cracked-plastic-trim-fix-r71/ I think I did two pairs... You want to buy my spare pair?

Cutting through the pins at the small gap between the control arm and the knuckle is SOP. Just make sure he has enough gap for the saw blade width and doesn't damage either the arm or the knuckle. Good luck. And remember that it's a rite of passage.

Beautiful work on the gaskets. Must be nice to have access to a laser cutter!!

Haha!!!

Yeah, it's just glued on from the heat and the petrified old gasoline. Razor knife works well since you don't have to worry about ruining the old diaphragm. Don't bend the disks. If you can't seem to get them apart and are worried about bending a disk, you can drop the whole thing into a sealed cup of carb cleaner. For a week.

I say we take off and nuke the entire site from orbit. It's the only way to be sure.