Captain Obvious

Here's two more pics. This is taken looking at the back of the speedo after the dash has been pulled out: And this is the same pic from above, but I circled the cable and threaded coupler hanging loose: Good luck!

I would start simple... Are you sure they aren't stock with overspray from a previous paint job? And if for some reason you are convinced that they are aftermarket, I would start simple... Which of the aftermarket versions are constant pitch (not variable rate) and are long enough that they don't leave a gap when the strut assy is off the car like in your pics. Some of the aftermarket stuff is so short that it results in a gap when the wheels are left hanging. It doesn't appear to be the case with what you have there.

I used Melling as well because I liked the cast iron body instead of aluminum. But if you don't care about that, you can get an original Hitachi style (aluminum body) version from Rockauto for less than thirty-five bucks.

There is a cable that connects to the transmission. A mechanical cable, not an electrical one. Internal cable rotates inside an outer jacket. This mechanical cable spins when the car is moving and provides the "speed of travel" input to the speedo. Big metal cable right in the center of the back of the speedo. There is a large (15mm) white plastic collar that screws onto the back of the speedo to hold the cable to the housing. It is possible to remove the speedo from the dash first, but it's not necessary. But if you want to do it that way, here's a pic that might help? And here's a pic with the dash removed. Note that you have to take the two steering column bolts completely out and let the column hang down enough to get the dash out from above it:

Only if we knew how fast he was removing the oil pump.

Been there, done that. Oil pumps are cheap. Front covers are not. There's no way you want to put a used oil pump of questionable integrity on your newly reconditioned engine. Sawzall is your friend.

You do not have to remove the tach or the speedo to pull the dash. You do have to unscrew the speedometer cable from the rear of the speedo, but I've always been able to do that relatively easily with the speedo in place. Just reach your arm up behind the speedo and unscrew the coupling. As for what it is that's holding your stuck dash in place, not sure. I used to have a list around here somewhere for what was necessary... I'll look for that list and see if I can find it.

One additional thought... How about making it the same accent color as the rear taillight panels and the grill, etc? That wouldn't directly blend with the color and texture of the console plastic, but it would tie in well with the other accents around the car.

Haha!! I've seen wrinkle finish, and hammered finish. And I think I've also seen something that looks like it has sand in it... Like a traction finish for stair treads or something? Good luck with the experiments and hope you come up with something you like. What's on there now? Semi-gloss?

That's what I would do. I wouldn't do it with the engine running though. I would shut it off first.

Looks cool, but I'm having a little trouble reconciling this: I think you're way beyond having it "blend". I mean. c'mon... Fancy laser cut script lettering with a flashy gold background. With LED readout and a row of shiny chrome switches. And you're wanting it to blend? Hahaha!!

Glad to help. Just remember that simply knowing where they go is only half the puzzle... Figuring out which one goes where is the other half. Some (most?) of them are relatively easy to figure out, but if I remember correctly, some of them can be a little tricky!

Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Thanks for clearing that up!!

Not that it matters (other than to satisfy my pedantic nature)... It wasn't just the 280's. The 260 also used plastic. If S30 doesn't turn anything up, I've got a spare pair here.

2 for fuel banjo inlet 1 for bowl air vent nipple 1 for bowl drain plug (later round tops only) 1 for needle valve 1 for damper stalk 1 for inside chamber to cushion piston end of travel As for the last one... Not sure. On the four screw round tops, there might be a seal between the nozzle holder and the bottom of the main carb body? Don't remember for sure.

It's pretty much the same procedure if you have to reinflate Otto.

Wait. You didn't cut yourself with the razor, but you cut yourself with the paint. Did I understand that correctly? Sorry... I know it's not really a laughing matter. But. So that adds a new meaning to it when someone says "Wow. That car is really sharp. I like the paint!"

Excellent. And did you test the temperature valve? Does it get cold when you want it cold?

Thanks bud! I'll sleep soundly. The screws holding your vacuum control switch don't match. One of the screws that holds the HVAC "stuff" to the transmission tunnel is loose. Bottom right of the pic.

You're kidding. How fast does your drill go???

What he said!

Yeah, why should you be so lucky to get everything perfect the first time? Speaking of which... I see in your latest pic (upside down gymnast style) that you haven't run any of the vacuum tubing to the control switch. That's not going to get any more fun as additional things get put into place.

Only because I don't have air conditioning. The non-A/C systems are simpler, but they have a drawback.... I don't have A/C.

I didn't study the 260 system, but I believe it's supposed to be more "dead man". I think the light is supposed to come on if the alternator is NOT spinning. The theory as I understand it is that you are being told that you may not have power brakes anymore because you have lost your source of vacuum energy. Are you sure the brake warning lamp doesn't use NC contacts? I know it does on the later years like my 77. That's why the brake warning relays always burn up. They get tired of being powered every single second the engine is running.