Stanley

I got at 0-10 psi liquid filled McDaniel gauge after reading some rave reviews of it on an RX-7 site. They also have gauges that would be right for F.I. setup. I've had it installed (under the glove box with a high pressure AN line tee'd from the mechanical fuel pump) for over a year, it's big, easy to read, steady. After removing a glass inline filter I could see the typical pressure go up from 3.9 to 4.0 psi. They're not retail but will email you information for local distributers. Mine cost $65. Good industrial stuff. Pressure Gauges, McDaniel Controls, Inc. - After all it costs more to replace a defective gauge than the original purchase

Rather than relying on the manufacturer's claims, unless you have personal knowledge, I would rely on my local muffler shop to choose a muffler that won't restrict flow, and won't be too loud. They should have plenty of experience as to how a particular muffler will sound, perform and fit. Also, there are some good threads on this site about specific muffler and exhaust pipe combinations, but what someone else thinks is perfect might be too loud for you (and your local PD). I've heard to use 2 1/4' exhaust pipe for 240Z engine, 2 1/2" exhaust for 280Z. From your previous posts, you have a built engine with a cam that works better in a higher rpm range. That means if you're driving 30 mph in high gear, performance might not be great. If you choke it off with a muffler or exhaust pipe that's too small, performance will be even worst. Your experiment may have confirmed that.

The instructions for those ten dollar glass filters say "not for fuel injection". For carbed systems they're good for diagnosing a dirty fuel tank. I don't want them permanently though. For one thing, there are six places they can leak: 2 hose clamps, 2 screw-in hose barbs, and 2 O-rings. I was checking out all the air bubbles in it (inline before the mechanical fuel pump), when I removed the filter and put a length of clear yellow Tygon in it's place most of the bubbles disappeared. Maybe the ethanol was eating the O-rings. They flow OK though. I have a good fuel pressure gauge, the pressure only went up about .1 psi when I removed the glass filter.

RobbMc Performance Products - Fuel Filters I got the large 100 micron for carbs (by the tank). 40 micron for F.I. after the pump. Seems like overkill but figure I won't have to clean it very often. Nice price compared to K&N etc. Hefty filters.

What model is your Carter, mechanical or electrical?

A few (two?) years ago I saw a rebuild kit for 240Z F.P. online; went back later and couldn't find it. Hope you find the parts. Looks like this thread was to find replacements for the OE Fuel pump but Denki is no longer made in Japan and the new ones are stamped metal which don't look right and are useless to me since I run a fuel pressure gauge from an AN hose tee'd from the outlet, impossible with stamped metal. My OE style Denki from Pep boys is fairly new but I want to rebuild my old Nikki that was on my '73 when I got it, for a spare. Also, been trying to get a OE style Carter (made in USA), but the new ones are stamped. I called the Carter factory many times, left messages and emailed them, trying to find the earlier type, but never received a reply. I called Rock Auto and they said they had the OE type Carter, and directed me to the photo of it on their site. Two days later the photo was removed (respect them for that). BTW my Denki is putting out 4.0 psi, and my float valves don't have a problem with it.

Wind will do bad things to a car cover unless it's a brand new, top of the line, like gold series from BD. My experience is only about 30 mph wind speed in a winter storm. 65 mph is almost hurricane force, although it would be a little less from being behind the towing vehicle. I guestimate a good cover would last about a hundred miles at highway speed if it was carefully attached, maybe more. My current 4 year old cover would be ripped to shreds in about five minutes.

That $4500 to finish it up sounds a little ridiculous. But if I had ten times the money, and ten times the knowledge and experience, and my own machine shop, I might be interested. Wait, better make that twenty times.

Maybe try it with vacuum advance hooked up? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/23991-bypassing-vacuum-advance.html

Should have read more carefully. Saw some silicon tape at O'Reilly supposed to temporarily repair leaking water hoses and pipes, but that looks so corroded it probably won't work.

Probably the tube through the intake manifold. Coolant goes from BSPT hose barb in lower thermostat housing to BSPT hose barb at front of intake manifold, through the tube, to Hot=closed thermostat, to short hose, to metal tube at back of engine, to short reducer hose, to the tee on the right side of the block. If it's the tube through the intake manifold, you can (maybe) buy a used manifold with good heater tube, or take it to a good machine shop. Otherwise plug the thermostat housing and cap the tee on the right side (rubber tapered plug and/or silicon cap). Those tubes get all corroded and beyond repair. If it's the tube around the back of the engine, buy a new one (expensive), or use some good heater hose instead.

What rpm when it happens? Only at mid-range? Good acceleration from about 4000 to 5000 rpm and from 1500 to 2500? I don't understand how ignition could cause a problem with light acceleration that would go away when accelerating at higher rpm or up a hill.

Hi Kats, I saw the Z432 has this nifty coolant recovery system and bracket. Don't see anything in my 240Z engine manual about coolant recovery. Most of the Z cars I see have something, from aftermarket plastic to chrome or beer can. It seems essential, at least in the desert. This one looks right, but I'm guessing it's difficult or impossible to find.

If my cam's battery hadn't quit, I would have gotten more photos. There were some great cars that I didn't get. Kats, I usually like to see modifications, but the idea of modifying the Z432 (other than carb jetting/tuning, and timing tweaks) makes me cringe.

Possibly slack in the linkage?

If it's the cam you could get smaller tires. So you'd have slightly higher rpm cruising around town at 35mph or so. I had the maybe the same problem and going to 65 series instead of 70 seems to have fixed it. Less top speed I guess, but when would I go 125 anyway.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]73513[/ATTACH This says it all.

I had a similar problem, verified on the dyno as fuel related. Raised the float levels slightly higher than stock (one was way low) and was able to rev higher but there was still bogging on acceleration from cruise at freeway speed. Switching from 20wt 3-in-one oil to 30 wt. helped noticeably, now it was put-putt- putting where it was totally bogging before. Then I installed some modified (by someone who knows what they're doing, not me) needles and it made a big difference. Almost there but I think the needles need a little more polishing to be perfect. The head's not stock, guess it needs more gas at mid-range. Got some good advice from members along the way, thank you. Maybe try thicker oil first, it's easy.

Thought you'd like that orange one. Here's a shot of the engine bay. Sent Mike the CD so all 98 shots should be in the gallery soon.

OK,OK, OK! I think I'll send a DVD to Mike, though. My ISP is getting slower by the day.

My braided radiator hoses seemed sort of thin. Forget where I got them. Nissan sells nice ones, not braided though. wirecare.com has braided sleeving. I put their black braided sleeving on my Nissan radiator hoses, and on some fuel lines by the tank. It looks ok and may protect them, but now I see on their site that they also have a gray, flat filament type that looks better IMO, and more like original.

Close-up of the nitrous injectors. Wonder why there's two for each cylinder. Maybe one is for nitrous, the other for alcohol or something. So looks like if you've got a F.I. head with carbs, turbo'd or not, you could use the injector ports for juice. Hmmm.....

Saw this interesting engine bay at Zcon. Don't know much about F.I. but don't think this setup is totally stock.

Yes there's a sensor for the carb heater line, it's a hot=closed thermostat that attaches to the rear of the intake manifold, as described in the FSM. If the stock one isn't available, there are substitutes, described in posts on this site. In Alaska, it might be a good thing to have if you drive in cold weather. That blue hose looks like a loop from the hose barb where the short hose is supposed to go from the thermostat to the tube through the intake manifold. Don't understand purpose of the loop. There's a plug in the thermostat housing where the hose barb is attached for the manifold heater hose. It's a BSPT thread, 1/4" pretty sure. Maybe use a header blanket if the stock heat shield doesn't work with the headers. Or use some header wrap on the area near the carbs.

Yes, someone can. They're probably going to need to see some pictures of this car, though, something about it's history, and so on. Was it running OK with the flat tops? What test did you do? Maybe one of three things. Clogged banjo bolt or filter, clogged float valve, kinked nozzle hose, low float setting, high mix setting, clogged nozzle, stuck piston, linkage not adjusted, butterfly out of adjustment, choke not adjusted, fuel rail or hose plugged. Ok twelve. Maybe more but that's all I can think of. Sounds like a minor issue if it was running before.