cgsheen1

The Precision door weather strip is crap! Not only did I install it on my 260Z, but have installed it on several other customer Z's because they bought the whole Precision kit. I finally got SO sick of mine, I pulled it off and used side-bulb welt (which is marvelous in comparison). But we still have access to Bob's 1975 280Z "museum car" and the original weather-strip is phenomenal.

What about door cards for any and all years. I'm talking about someone molding the MDF, fiberboard, pressed board - or whatever it's called - into the correct shape and with the proper cutouts. It would be nice to get proper vinyl also but I'd settle for new cards.

Bob's 1975 "museum car" has one and I thought it was added for an aftermarket alarm. Thinking about it, there is no other evidence of an alarm system. Looks just like the picture above and it's in the same spot. Guess I ought to check and see if it lights the dome lamp.

How thick is your spacer? Did you use the spacer with your previous wheels? The lower valence has some adjustment. Have you tried loosening that side to see if it will move forward? (We see quite a few Z's with this issue when owners are changing wheels and tires... I had this issue when I first mounted my sons Rota Grids on Goldie. -> airdam)

You won't find those on an early, but my 260Z has those outlets. (had. I have them but they're not currently installed) and my son's '76 280Z has them. Both are factory A/C cars. I don't think those are installed on Bob's '75 280Z museum car. It doesn't have factory A/C.

I'm a Journeyman Plumber (former life). We had to stop using, 'um, gender specific language, when referring to various plumbing parts due to the always offended. Certainly couldn't refer to the "toilet fill valve" as a "ballcock" like they did for generations. No more Galvanized Steel Nipple, or Male Adapter, well, you get the picture. The part you reference above plumbers now have to refer to as a Stop, Shut-off, or Valve.

I'd like to see that in person one day. Did you open up your gauges at all? Pepper and I are just going through some gauges - cleaning, re-spraying the white inside and the black if necessary, and polishing up the scratched lenses.

When you use paint stripper, don't scrape - use a brush with firm plastic bristles. Yup, it's messy.

???

I installed "bulbs" of this type in a customers 240Z years ago. They were WHITE though - that LED brassy white. Super bright - and they happened to work well with his rheostat. Brightened up his instruments double or more. I've not used a colored LED though.

To me, the dash install is so much simpler with the windshield out. And. we've installed a dozen windshields with the dash in place (dash in place - not the finisher). In the beginning, we were using a small cord and it really is much like grannyknot described but I find the lower corners much easier than the upper ("sharper") corners. Once we changed procedure to larger diameter wet cloth as the pull string (1/8" or so cotton cord) it became a non-issue. Decreased the time and effort ten-fold (that's probably an exaggeration - but it's a heck-of-a-lot easier...) Q, go ahead and install your dash and invite me up when you're ready for glass!

Picture of yours please. There is a difference between the Factory A/C and Non-A/C models. But, it's not cables (well, I guess it IS cables... read on). The A/C models have vacuum bottles, vacuum solenoids, and vacuum actuators under the dash (a vacuum actuator on the right side of the blower housing for the mode door - where the non-A/C has one cable on the right side of the blower housing to operate the mode door.) I've not seen two cables on the right side of the blower housing - only one for the mode door and one to the left of the blower housing for the heater valve. (I have the '75 "museum 280Z" in the shop - it's non-factory A/C. I'll look at it's blower box.)

It would help if the end of yours was rounded a bit like the cable in the lower picture. It would slip in the back of the speedo easier if it were. It's tough getting the proper alignment under the dash with all the crap you have to fight back there. That's likely most of your problem. If your Tach were out It would be much easier, but I'd probably follow the advice given above - remove the other end from the transmission, pull the cable back a bit, hook it up under the dash, and then push the cable (while turning it) back up into the speedo from the transmission end. Reconnect to the trans and you're set.

Bought one of these for my 260Z several years ago direct from Nissan. These replacement consoles are beefier than the originals - in the center section that really counts. I've enjoyed mine, I'm sure you will too! Nissan part #96911-N4725, right?

The 280ZX HVAC was a total redesign so I doubt it. I do know that the blower motor and fan spin the opposite direction of the S30. (But that may be help rather than hindrance in your situation... )

CO, you just made my head hurt...

Yup, I just had a late '72 in the shop with a working seat beat buzzer (first I've ever seen working (in a 240Z)...). Definitely has a neutral switch. The buzzer was active (while the seat belt was in the retractor) if the transmission was in any gear (including reverse) - off while in neutral. I'd vote for the OP's wires to be for the neutral switch.

Looks like sway bar end link parts to me...

Pictures always help.

Have you downloaded the 280Z Factory Service Manual for your specific year? They're free and readily available on xenons30.com and nicoclub.com. Might fill in the gaps...

Kia used the same blower in many different models and years. I have seen many with that hose to circulate air over the electric motor. You can modify your blower box to use it or block it off. Here's a picture of the Kia blower I installed in my 260Z (Goldie) all those years ago and a picture of a spare Kia blower that I have. I think most of the guys doing the swap lately have just bought them new from the dealer. Maybe Amazon... (edit: Yup, Amazon has them...)

Try this: It will require a helper. Loosen the four hood bolts to snug - you don't want the hood to drop or move by itself but you want to be able to force movement. With the hood up and the bolts loosened - using both hands, one on the front edge of the hood and the other towards the back of the hood (one hand down, one hand up on the side of the hood each man (or woman)) - push the front of the hood back and the rear of the hood forward as much as it will go. So, down hand aft, upper hand forward. The bolts should have been loose enough that the bottom bolts will move as far as they can towards the rear of the car and the top bolts will move as far as they can towards the front of the car. You don't want them to move up or down, that would spoil your hood-to-cowl fitment. May help, but if it doesn't you'll have to repair, modify, or replace the hinge as suggested above. This is a simple and quick thing to try to get the nose of the hood down. It has worked for me on several of the Z's we've had in the shop. Some just had to much wear in the hinges to be able to get the hood to stay where it belonged. If the hood sits properly when the torsion rods are out and pushes up when the torsion rods are in place, the hinges are too worn. Please keep in mind that these cars were built in a different era and fitment back then was nothing like the sheet metal fitment of modern vehicles. When we were putting Z cars back together after paint we usually tried to get fitment that was as "visually pleasing" as possible, not perfect alignment of all the parts and seams... (The factory certainly did not take the time to shim and correct body panels for perfect alignment.)

I have access to a 1971 (late 1970) and a 1972 at a shop near me. I have a 1973, my early 1974, and my son's 1976 at my house. I the next day or two I'll try to examine them for differences and get some measurements.