Patcon

Ditto

I should have clarified that, Thanks, Carl

That looks pretty good. I am epoxy priming all the parts and then shooting with a catalyzed product. I believe that will be a harder finish. Rattle can would be much easier and faster though. If I had more sense that would be the way I would have gone. I am halfway down this road now so I will see it thru. I shot some test panels yesterday flattened 25% / 35% / 50% / 60% I will probably go with 50% it flattened greatly from 50% to 60%. The 50% still give some reflection ( I can see my face in the reflections but not so glossy like the other samples). More like a semi gloss not quite satin. I need to post some pics when I get a little further. Charles

I was working on the insulators for one of my cars and cleaned them up and stripped the paint. I have two questions: How do you know when they need replacing. The rubber does not appear to be cracked or overly dry. I could respray them and install and put that money some where else. Also how do you remove the bearing from inside the insulator? The ones there now are very rough feeling. Thanks, Charles

When I mounted my 240z I used the bumper mounts which are tied to the rear frame cross member. Do you want to attached where the bumper mount to the shocks or where the shocks mount to the car? Charles

What is the VIN#?

Good for you Pictures please... They always help keep me motivated. Charles

Thanks, I have never done it that way only check for clunk when dropping. I will have to try that next time... Charles

How do you know when the carb dome is centered? Charles

looks like the vacuum advance for the dizzy. I wouldn't unplug that on a stock dizzy setup... C

If I didn't already have a gallon of Nason black, I might look at the Eastwood products but I am a little sour on them from a couple of other products I bought and their lack of customer service. I have a DuPont flattening agent and have cut the catalyst as recommended by the Jobber at the paint store. I am 8 paint : 1/2 catalyst (1 normal) : 1 1/2 flattener with no reducer. That makes the flattener like 15% I think, but doesn't cut the sheen very much. I can still see my reflection in the parts. I would like to get a little closer to the factory sheen because I think it makes the car look a little more classic. Could be obsessive though... Was hoping someone could get me a little closer on the percentages so I don't have to make 10 test panels. Charles

Still working on getting the sheen right on the suspension parts. Any help... Charles

No plates on the front of our cars in SC. At least no DOT plates C

Oh well. I am sure it will be nice to get it done... C

I was doing a little parts sorting in the shop today and came across a fuel pump assembly out of a 76 280z. If it would help let me know and I will post a picture to confirm its the right item and test the pump to confirm it runs. It could be had for postage... Charles

Love it. I like a great Bimmer. Do you have any 0-60 or 1/4 mile times. I would love to know. I like a great sleeper about as much as anything. That project took a lot of time and money. Especially the go fast parts. How fast do you want to spend? Charles

Won't be able to spin it very fast with those oil cans but just think of the TORQUE. Although there may be some other technical issues... C

At the end of the rocker panels there are two nuts welded inside the rocker to receive the bolts thru the lower edge of the fender. Many times those bolts are rusted up tight and I have actually broken the nuts loose from the welds inside the rocker panel trying to unbolt the fenders. I don't know if I have a good solution for you though... Charles

That is a very good idea. I like it, very clever... C

I wouldn't cut any of that out unless it is starting to get pinholes in it from rust. Clean it up so you can see what you've got. Treat the rust and seal it down. Assemble and drive. Most of that looks very minor compared to the early Z cars and many of them still get driven.

I think the hammer and dolly set I am using is a Harbor Freight $30 or Northern tool would also have reasonable tools. You really need the dolly to roll the metal around it and prevent stretching. You can hammer right against the dolly to flatten and hammer "off dolly" to shape. We have about the same weather as you; its like living in Seattle recently... C

Looking forward to it C

Double post

He does beautiful work. I have all the more appreciation for it after having done some of that myself. Charles

How do I add that as a picture and not a link? C