Patcon

I went looking there and can't figure out how you post needs and parts? Just in the timeline or somewhere else?

Found this by browsing dpangt on facebook https://dpangt.com/2016/10/10/railroad-z/?fbclid=IwAR2xjN7w5_CepcvUnatPyOJrkFhAnniWDrxd5InSt3hGc40a_4q3VNy7nTM This guys done ok with his car ? @madkaw BTW I hope you got all healed up!

I had to Google that to figure it out!

You mentioned fuel and I don't wan to muddy things up but you might consider a bottle of fuel treatment in case you got some water in the last fill up. With the help you already have, you should be able to get this sorted. Just keep trying what they ask and feed the results back.

Yeah, that can happen. They get rusty and then they self demolish. You could get by on points for a while but the electronic distributor is better and hotter. You would need to add the ballast resistor back in with the right coil if you want the points to last. Congrats on getting it to run!

Excellent

They will probably have one at your local big box parts store too.

I bought the kit from Harmon and did it myself. I don't think I would have an issue with him doing it for me. I think he will be substantially cheaper than White Post

That all makes sense. I have always found it a pain to get the input shaft engaged so I avoid that process if possible.

I might have a spare. I would need to look around some

What drove the choice to mate the engine to the tranny in the car? It is so much easier to do out of the car but a little more challenging to place in the car as one piece

The doors look nice and straight

Oh, here too! Although I'm getting better. I'm slow but not terribly slow any more. It makes a person understand why this kind of work is so expensive in a shop, even with relatively low shop rates.

I thought so. On Hybridz I don't go by Patcon. The access in the door is limited but it can all be done with out too much hassle. You just have to know the proper sequence. Glad you got it fixed!

Which thread? Are you sure it's mine?

Be careful removing the door panel. It is easy to tear the mounts out of the backer panel. A good removal tool or a wide "5 way" helps to not damage the door panel. Wrap metal tools with a little tape to protect the paint. Getting the door latch out with the window frame in place can be difficult. I don't remember if it's possible or not. Someone else may chime in. Many times latches can be cleaned up and rehabbed to make them right. You will know more once it's out. Sometimes it's old hard grease that makes them inoperable.

I've determined, that's half the battle with metal work

That's a pretty good show. Hadn't heard of that before

What did you do to refresh the starter internals? That one armature looks pretty rough

wal280z in his signature line too

I think I would still take the peel the onion approach

There are some current and previous Z32 owners here too

I suspect the inner pieces are perforated with rust. So I would remove the skin for access and then rework the inner pieces. I wouldn't want to totally cut the roof bracing, just repair or replace as necessary.

I think I would remove the roof skin and then patch the underlying structure where necessary. Then reattach the roof skin. As long as the rust doesn't get too far into the corners, this would give the best repair I think. I don't think I would trust my welding on an A pillar not to mention the potential warpage

I missed that. Why does the whole roof need to be done damage, rust?