Everything posted by Patcon
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1966 Roadster 1600, here we go!
Tailgaters!!!!
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Trying to get my 1973 Fairlady (RHD) back on the road
Does he not have a ring compressor? All of the rings need to be checked for end gap in their corresponding bores. This should have already been done before trying to install them. If he hasn't done this then I would take my toys and go home. I would not replace the cam towers. You would be asking for trouble. Make some simple flat block off plates with a gasket under them. Not too hard to do really
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Trying to get my 1973 Fairlady (RHD) back on the road
The cam towers look to be the early type. You can see the bolts just sticking out. Someone may have been running both the internally oiled cam and the spray bar. You need to block off the cam tower spray bar locations. Also on start up you need to verify that the cam is oiling. Don't assume it feeds oil out all the holes, verify!
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1973 Rebuild
What was the purpose of removing the carrier from the diff?
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1973 Rebuild
So those stub axles will mate up to the original halfshafts...
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1973 Rebuild
What are you using for half shafts?
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Trying to get my 1973 Fairlady (RHD) back on the road
The last picture is of the cylinder head. Is the mechanic saying there is a tube missing down the right side of the cylinder head? On the later cylinder heads the valve train is oiled from the internally drilled cam. The little holes in the cam lobes. There is no spray bar on the later heads like on the earlier car.
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Crème Brûlée with your Sushi?
Turbo charged 1.8L making 249 Hp! 236 ft/lbs Neat car but not very Z like in its styling. More like an Audi
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Complete roof R&R
So there's 4 separate pieces in the A pillar?
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Picked up a couple of hard to find parts recently
Can you not coat them with a clear coat to prevent them from dulling out on the lip?
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Picked up a couple of hard to find parts recently
Always nice to have confirmation!
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Complete roof R&R
I would consider trying to vary the splice location between the different layers at each corner. It would make the repair stronger. Also be sure and preserve the original leaded joint locations. The chassis needs these flex areas to survive
- Complete roof R&R
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I've been looking for a project
I would price out the pieces individually. I suspect you could pull it together cheaper and get paid for the time to do it. Use Rockauto for everything you can. they may even have it all
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I've been looking for a project
$150 or so is pretty typical of a rebuild service. I saw 7"ers for sale a while back but they were like $250 or so
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Picking up a 1977 280z 6 Hours Away. Tips?
Yes, congrats on a good trip. That's a good test for whether the car is solid or not
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Picking up a 1977 280z 6 Hours Away. Tips?
The soft suspension could be a combination of old bushings and old struts. Most of these bushing are available new in rubber from Nissan. Switching to poly bushings can make it too harsh. Some prefer poly Mushy brakes is normally air but could be swelling rubber flexible lines, failing seals or excess adjustment in the rear drums The combo switches can be cleaned and are getting rare. So if the one you have can be repaired all the better
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I've been looking for a project
I believe most of the boosters are available reman'd. Although the smaller 7" boosters have a premium. He could also send it to a rebuilder and have it reworked. I have tried sealing that diaphragm in the past and have been unable to get satisfactory results. Harmon Brakes in GA is one possibility. If the OP is really industrious he could rebuild it himself like in the booster rebuild thread. Reman'd boosters normally come unfinished; the boosters from a rebuilder come looking like new
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I've been looking for a project
You need to see if the booster will hold a vacuum. A vacuum gauge will be needed to accomplish this. Many fuel pressure gauges will also measure vacuum. It would be easiest to measure on an idling car. Then engine acts as the air pump. Plumb the vacuum gauge between the booster (the black thing on the firewall) and the check valve. Run the car, pull vacuum down and cut the car off. See if the vacuum holds or drops slowly. When master cylinders look like this, they have generally already leaked into the booster. The brake fluid destroys the diaphragm in the booster making it tear. Reconditioned boosters are available from vendors.
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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
I like those washer sprayers. They look great. Are they NOS?
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Transmission leaking from shifter cylinder
When I reworked a 5 speed recently that seal was so hardened we thought it might be metal or plastic. I ordered one and was surprised at supple it was compared to what was there
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A madkaw review
Depends on the kids. My two oldest have seen us sacrifice for them their whole lives and they get it. The younger ones have had it easier and it is harder to convince them that they have it pretty good. Still trying...
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A madkaw review
I totally understand that!
- SU carb/ running issues
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Cheap 260 for sale. Not mine
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