Patcon

I believe CSV is Cold Start Valve

@DC_Mike I am so sorry for you!!! It is a little surprising that the rust is that extensive. I have done the same thing with a Copart car out of Miami. You could try to run the car back through Copart and recover some of the money. That is what I did. If you keep it, be sure and salvage all those vent parts in the hatch even if you don't use a vented hatch. They are getting rare and bring good money.

I saw the shifter and suspected the same thing. That makes it even less valuable in my mind. I didn't even notice the roll bar. That is an endorsement for having one, if you going to turn your car upside down

72 at Copart Is this really worth $350?? At $250 plus fees that's about where it's at right now. Have no idea on what's under the hood. https://www.copart.com/lot/26551558

The early finisher is unique.

NLA = No Longer Available

I don't know any more. A few years ago, I would have agreed whole heartedly. Any more, I just don't know. I have a difficult time even guessing anymore

So with the BaT car at$66k, the blue car could be cleaned up and easily be worth a good bit more than it sold for. It might have lower actual miles and I think it was a 50% lower vin... I am not surprised it went that high. I would have guesses 50k if no major flaws. I didn't look at it that close but it seemed "presentable"

I once had a suburban I was datalogging. The fuel pressure gauge was wrapped around the drivers mirror on about 4' of hose. Very convenient ?

How does this car compare to the care Captain Obvious posted about the other day?

Great looking truck!

Yeah, I don't get why people do that. Basic dolly work is pretty easy.

Interesting

Wow! They weren't shy about using filler!

Penetrating oil. Soak it down. Make a flat spot on the end of the stud and center punch it. Drill a small, 1/8" or so hole all the way through it.On second thought if this bolt goes down into the water jacket, don't drill all the way through. If the bolt hole has a bottom, drill all the way through it and fill with penetrating oil. Then use an "easy out" to remove the bolt. Make a bigger hole for the easy out. The really small easy outs can break and they are very hard to remove if you break them.

Nice to see you back at it!

Unless it's really bad, that is an excellent price! Even if it had minimal rust it would still probably be a good price based on recent history. It looks to have the original paint. So, if it's a true survivor, probably worth a lot more than that

If the mechanical fuel pumps sit for a while, the internal valves can stick shut. If the pump is serviceable, you can disassemble and make sure the diaphragm is good and the valves move

There is a company in Greenville SC, circuit board medics. They might be able to troubleshoot you in-op display

I don't know that we have enough traffic for auctions to reach reasonable levels. Would an auction increase the "troll" traffic?

Have fun at school

Isn't there a spring internally in between the throats of the carb? Maybe it is weak or broken. Could be stretched

Jim, what years work?

Did you ruin the shifter fork?

@hls30.com Yes, what Guy said!