Patcon

May you an ad in the classifieds and ad some pictures. It would be interesting to see the quarters. especially the interior side

If someone closer doesn't have one. I might

MikeW also runs a fine mesh filter on his carbs

Jim I didnt see it above but which glass housings did you go with?

I believe a lot of the heat gain in carbs and itb's is through radiation not convection. I believe Ive got that right. So blocking the line of sight with an appropriate medium greatly reduces heat gain.

What do you mean by inner headlight bucket?

They would look good on the Goon! We could run 4 lamps high and low and still not pull too much power.... ?

Looks great Jim!

Your best bet is to talk to a good exhaust shop. They would have the experience to at least make suggestions

I was just looking at his location for just that reaso

Having started the tear everything apart and fix it thing ten years ago, I would strongly vote against that. Get the car running and all the details worked out the best you can and enjoy it. Then when you do the body work, the car can go right back together after paint and be off the road for the least amount of time.

I guess the fuel rail depends on how strict the visual inspection is? In some parts of the country they compare the engine to sample pictures to determine if components have been removed or tampered with. If a visual inspection isn't a big deal, Then the fuel rail can probably remain for now

Much better!

I would say its motorless the way it sits

Adjust the latch. The trick is to get it to sit flat with out too much tension. Lubricating the latch will help too. I make these adjustments with out the latch installed

You can use some blocks of wood between the center sections of the hood and the body and re-arch the hood. Remove the cowl first so you can push against the stronger inner structure. Massage it some then reinstall the cowl. The hoods are fairly workable. Be careful and make lots of tries. Don't crimp it!!! You could even use a 12"-16" block of 2x4 to push the corners of the hood down so you can apply even distributed pressure

Estimated at 180,000 pounds

What is the appropriate Bosch number?

Thats where I would start. Google might find one. Price the repairs and see if that makes sense over trying to source a replacement of unknown quality

Sounds like zspert might have some

Can they not be straightened? We have a company in our area that straightens wheels. I just had one done that had a 2" bulge in the rim. Can't find it now...

Brake systems don't like to sit. If it were mine I would start on one end and replace all the seals on the way to the other. Booster is a definite possibility

it's actually a spring. Like CG said it fits into a groove in the horn pad to keep it on the wheel.

I always fill the supply line from the fuel pump rearward to make it easier to prime

I saw that today. Seems like a waste