Patcon

Looks like 2L roadsters have the same Pin-ball stud

If you have great spark and you manually added fuel it should run. I find adding fuel can be hit or miss. Liquid fuel is not combustible. I have better success with Ether

The throttle shaft screws are brass and really soft. They are also staked on the other end. The staking has to be ground off to really get them out. which will necessitate new screws for reassembly

You could check movement in the bearings at the output stubs and the input flange. With a dial indicator you could probably check backlash. Spin it by hand and feel for roughness. replacing the seals is probably a good idea

turbo motor

I wasn't suggesting youre missing the plate. I was thinking the dimensions referenced in the other drawing seem to show the plate. I had forgotten this was the early 4 speed. We dont appear to know that your dimensions are incorrect. We have operated on the presumption they are...

Isn't there normally a front bearing cover inside the bell housing? and doesn't the fork ball normally thread into that? That would account for the disparity...

That is a nice drawing

I bought my epoxy from "color chips" https://www.originalcolorchips.com/ Its a high solids product. Buy some spike shoes. I have chips in mine to make it less slippery. Water, oil and especially glass beads make it slick!

That looks like the top of the jet. One is much lower than the other. I don't recall if you have set the floats yet, but if you haven't that is where I would start

The shaft screws are normally staked. It looks like someone got a little carried away staking that one. the shafts bend easily...

Ahhhh, Jim's emporium. I will have to make a pilgrimage one day....

Here is a source but I'm not sure it's who I used https://www.shoplicenseplates.com/ohio-license-plates there is a "26 ZR" plate there that might work if you can register it I believe this is who I used. He annotates which plates are register able or not http://www.scplates.com/for-sale/South-Carolina He covers Fl, Ga, SC, NC & Va

Make sure you know all the specifics In South Carolina they dont allow any vanity plates for year of manufacture plates. Also only certain letters are register able. I can't fully explain but as historic plates get registered they move down the alphabet. When we looked for Codys goon, I almost bought plates that wouldn't have worked. I had to look for a lower letter plate

In the current market I would say that number seems inline with other recent sales. So more than double where it was at but some less than 50k

That could leave a mark!

Paint is really the big hump in a project. The rest can really come together pretty quick.

Thanks for the feedback. I would say 10k is not out of line but I would have high expectations at that price. I'm not surprised by the timetable being off too. It seems like every car I hear about takes longer to paint than expected. Has it really been 3 years already???

Ouch!!! That may take a while to be 100%.

#4095 but clean and pretty. Will be interesting to see the results on the other one true mileage unknown believed to be 103k

Probably not enough to notice. With the proper chokes and jetting it would be hard to tell the difference, I believe

Yes, probably. I am probably low. I have been on n.v the last few examples like this As for the dents, I would get a good paintless dent repair guy to go over the whole car. If I thought the car would age ok as is, I might leave it original and patina'd

Could the OBX unit account for any of this movement. I was thinking they mounted in a way that didn't affect gear lash. Never mind, the OBX is a complete center section. The helicals could be introducing some of that lash. The side movement would still likely be bearings or damaged bearing surfaces. Did you check the fluid yet? Clean? Clear? No silver or filings on the magnet? No grit?

I'll be surprised if it doesn't double from here. Maybe even up to the 50k range