Patcon

This might be a contributing factor!! Secondaries won't even move. This is probably what happens when you don't buy a marine carb...? Fresh water boat only

I have never used a low noise type. But if it's anything like the low-noise type air ratchet I have; it wont be very quiet. Maybe the low-noise type are intended to be hearing safe I was wrong... I have more than 6 or 7 . This isn't even all of them. Sorry about the rotation. It displays properly on my computer and in an editor... This is my tool of choice for spot welds. You can tell it's been hot. It's done hundreds of welds. I find a straight one is easier to use than the angle grinder because of the better leverage This is also really nice for dressing welds. A 1" Rolok The biggest problem with it is the pads go very quickly!! They are also hard to source and about $0.35 each. I normally dress welds mostly down with the 3" cut off wheel. Then fine tune with the 1" and 2" Roloks

No, The revs drop fast and then chugs at 7 or 8 rpm before dying. I believe it is going completely into gear

or a bad day at the dentist!

Usually I pull the power to the fuel pump and run it dry. I don't remember if I did that last year, as my memory doesn't go back that far! 😉

I will have to look. I dont think I have float bowl sight glasses

Crash damage is a whole different thing. Sort of have to remake it with pressure the opposite to it being hit. Really gets easier with the right frame tools and hooks

Airbox on the boat has a flame arrester type filter on top of the carb. so pretty rodent proof I didn't figure it was fuel pump unless the bowls are really empty. Accelerator pump could be a possibility but you would think it would bog and then pick itself up. Just transition badly but it doesn't do that. One of my suspicions is trash in the carbs. Possibly stopping up the secondaries. So when you punch it; it goes really lean and falls apart... I would suspect gas too if it just sort of ran crappily but this is really bad.

This happens to be the biggest group of gearheads I know... So I need a little advise. I have a direct drive ski boat. Basically a chevy 350 with a Holley 4 barrel on it. I took it out today to test it and it went poorly. I dewinterized it a month or so ago with no real problems. Although I did have to raise the idle mildly to prevent stalling. I figured this was old fuel. Added ½ a tank of fresh fuel on the way to the lake. Started without too much effort but acted like the idle was weak. Headed out and tried to punch it and it fell flat on it face and bogging. Eventually stalled. Tried that a couple of times. I could gently get it up on plane 2-3k rpm but even then if you punched it, it fell flat Ideas for how to go about diagnosing, from the gearheads??

I have been dealing with Dave, very busy and emailing doesn't work. I do find he almost always answers my phone calls but the calls are short and you have to be persistent

I paid about $4600 plus fees and freight from NJ. About $6k to my door. I'll have $7-8k in it when done if I don't get too many surprises. Just find an M roadster Z4. S54 is already installed 😉 Much easier!

Has to be 1800 rpm or slower. I have a two speed buffing wheel. I use a string buff with plastic polish at 1800rpm's. Works great but have to wear a mask because That buff is very dusty. Ive done lots of lights

I have a drawer full of die grinders, maybe 6 or 7. Cut off wheel, 2" roloks, 1" rolok, 3 or four different burrs, steel brush. They're so maneuverable and fast. Just noisy...

The repairs look great!

That sub frame piece is supposed to be pretty thick. i'm not sure it will move the way you want with a large hammer. I had to use frame clamps and a come-a-long. I like a 1/4" grinding bur in a die grinder for spot welds. Fast and easy and the top panel can be reused if need be. It does make a lot of metal splinters though...

It is possible to hardpipe an oil gauge in at the oil sender to get a direct pressure measurement

Here is how I buy BMW Z4's I really like the color and the wheels. Most of the Z4's are silver, grey or black. Not many in other colors. It's an Si. I was watching a wrecked M roadster with 70k on it recently but just couldn't pull the trigger.

So you could take detailed measurements for looking for a source? I have thought of this too. the washers would be another reburb thing that would be really nice to have

The last I bought were about $50 each and came out of Japan

Yes, they have been NLA for a couple of years now. You would think a substitute could be found if a bushing mfg catalog could be looked over. We still use this kind of bushing in all kinds of modern applications. I tried at one point but I don't have proper Hoover skills!

That takes brass!!

This is what I bought but I haven't done a close comparison to the original as they are totally hidden.

I would pressure check with dry nitrogen not air. Air will introduce moisture. The nitrogen will help purge the system. Charge with niteogen. Then after testing, vacuum it down and charge with refrigerant

Those thick washers are available from Belmetric

I would rely on Dave Rebello for spring and cam recommendations or sourcing. SS hard lines are very hard and can be difficult to seal. A good flare wrench is necessary and more torque