Patcon

Serious money!!! Imagine the shop insurance? "Yes, we need a $100,000,000 of insurance coverge." "You need what???" 😂

If it quits knocking when pushing the clutch, then its a clutch issue or the front half of the transmission cluster. I dont remember the whole thread but I would suspect a main bearing issue

I would say blue is better. Black is also a dead give away someone's been in the motor

I agree. You need to try to move the valve by hand, like Jeff and others recommended. If it moves freely I would reassemble it and run a compression test. If all the numbers look reasonable, run it. After verifying oil flow and valve lash! Pogden's help would probably be good. Did you check valve lash before startup? Did you verify oil flow at the rockers before startup?

All kinds of possibilities: The valve could have gotten sticky The valve lock might not have been all the way in Could have just been a fluke I would have real hope if the spark plug wasn't trashed. The valve might be bent but shouldn't be cost prohibitive to get corrected

I think Jim is suggesting building a new 2½" y pipe and using two of the adapters at the header for transitions to the new y pipe

I would check the suspect areas. Maybe use paint stripper. If there's rust underneath, it needs to be cleaned. A nice paint job won't last over rust

Be very careful messing with that. The valve lock is gone. So if you take the pressure off the stem, the valve's gonna drop into the motor. Would be interesting to put air to the cylinder to hold the valve up. If it stays up and holds air pretty good. i would reassemble it and run a compression test. These engines are very tough. My first concern would be a bent valve stem

I would say no to stripping paint in areas that it's not needed

Columbia or Colombia?

Having been close to 130mph in my first 240z, many years ago. I would go with the higher numbers

Chas, I lnew I liked you for a reason! Thats alot of beer!!!

I got 4 coats of high build layed down. It's always amazing how bad it looks after you shoot a mono color shiny coat on it. All of a sudden there's flaws everywhere! I will use a little spot glaze on the bigger flaws, and then I will start guide coating. It will probably need another round of high build after blocking it down.

Look up my caswell thread Here it is, I can't do some of this on my phone...

They may make an exception for you Jim. Just because you're you 😉

That's too bad, but not surprising. It is a big risk for a plater to take on this hobby type plating. If the metal isn't clean you could contaminate his tanks. Which would be very expensive to correct and if the plating doesn't look good, then the customer is unhappy on a really low profit job. I suspect we will continue to have fewer options for platers. You might want to post this info in the "platers" thread so its all in one place

@pogden @Jeff G 78

I hate to say thats s parts cut, but that might be a parts car. At least its reasonably Priced. There looks to be a $1000 worth of parts there

Crack heads!!!!

$9,700 now !!!!

So Ive roughed out the rear end of the car I hope to spray some high build on it tomorrow

Alan is very knowledgeable about the history of these cars and is very passionate about it. It's nice to have that expertise on the forum

That was my understanding too. You could richen the whole range with a potentiometer but its highly unlikely to be good all across the range

Why did you go to pertronix from the matchbox?

@Terrapin Z