Patcon

I assume they are using the fuel to cool the diff. Liquid to liquid intercooler. Seems an interesting choice but I'm sure some engineer worked it out

I bought the firewall pad from Zcardepot. I haven't looked at it very close yet, but it looks like it will work ok. I have been working on the mounting cap screws. Some are missing and some are damaged. I bought a bottom tap so I could chase the threads. Then I forced some of the damaged caps out and pulled new SS acorn nuts using a bolt I found in the random bolt drawer So I have an issue with one of the JDM tail lights! I was trying to figure out why there was grunge in the turn signal section of the lens. Well this might do it! So I need to figure out what to do. I thought about just snapping the yellow section of the lens off and re-epoxying it. My concern is I don't want to end up with 5 or 6 pieces. I am not sure I can get the seam clean enough to glue with breaking it off. I thought about trying to cut a seam at the clear lens but don't want to lose the blade thickness. I have a commercial plastic welder but I think that will just make a mess. I would hate to have to scrap these tail lights and start over. I don't think the horizontal joint will be very noticeable because of the chrome trim bar. Ideas??

Somebody made a jig recently to flatten warped tail lights. Does anyone know where that thread is?

Very nice!

How is the firewall pad mounted? Some metal tabs and a couple of screws? No adhesive??

You can try a piece of ss cable chucked up in a drill to run into the feed lines to clean them out. I am all for saving an old tank.

Is the gas smell still an issue?

I dont know whether the patient is a 240, 260 or 280 but apparently the kick panel was a tall panel that extended from the cowl all the way to the bottom of the rocker panel. I dont know if the KF panel is in addition to that layer or a replacement for the bottom section of that panel but it is not the complete panel

Come on librarian, link it up and get you a tumbler of ice!

We made a little more progress. The new chain didn't have 2 shiny links. So we used the old one and marked it ourselves. We used clay and checked the clearance. It wasn't close at all. Barely touched it. We then got the head torqued down and the guides in. The long straight guide was touching the inside of the cylinder head pretty good but we got the bolt in regardless. We're trying to find timing cover bolts now. Who knows what we did with the originals! Timing cover cover gaskets are also a real issue. The timing set was correct for the L20 but the gaskets weren't. Fortunately the gasket set I bought originally for the motor had the correct gaskets. I also need to order a valve cover gasket. We might button it up next weekend. We'll see

We need to find the old thread and link it in here. So everyone can review with their favorite beverage of choice

280z? If it is, then this appears to be the relevant image. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/instrument-dash-side It would appear that stamping goes all the way from the A pillar to the bottom of the rocker panel

I doubt filing is necessary. Pins and wafers are normally plug & play

That is what Al says is in the engine. Unless you've verified all of this then it may or may not be there. Ultimately, I suspect there is an internal issue causing your fouling on #4. I'm not really sure what it could be but I think if it were induction or ignition related we would have solved it already.

I've never tried that but that is likely why the design has the adjust-ability it does and the lock nut. Good thought It will probably make it a little tougher to latch and the release cable needs to operate well with the extra tension on the hood

From the first pictures I can't even really tell what I'm looking at. It needs to be zoomed out some.

I think the mechanic is just guessing, but that is what most of us are doing. Educated guess work. It might fix it... But it's not going to fix your fouling on #4...

I don't know that you can if they have 9 wafers and you only have 4. You can't invert them because they're not symmetrical. I rekey kwickset and Schlage locks sometimes and there are only like 6 different pins. I would be surprised if there were 9 different wafers available for a 50 yo Datsun lock...

It looks great Kats! I'd be surprised if you could make it much better than that

Tried to locate parts in the shop today. I found the correct dash. Some of the rubber parts and some misc stuff. I also put some small rubber parts on. I predrilled these with a 0.140" bit first I might need to clarify, I installed the little rubber gas door bumpers I also installed the throttle boot, choke cable boot and heater hose grommets I also ran these under hot water to separate them. \ I have to figure out the best way to get the yellow goop off the lenses. What have other people used to reassemble the lens to the case? Once I get them clean, I will buff them and buy new trim pieces for the middle of the lens These are original JDM lights and they appear to have a black strip down the center. I am assuming this is paint and not integral to the lens?? It appears to be on the inside of the lens. Anyone know?

Differential link

Is the shifter boot still missing in the car. You can get a definite gas smell directly from the engine. Especially if all the vent tubing isn't connected

A bad Toupee'!!

Kats Heat is probably not going to work on FRP. It's likely to only break it down. Weight is unlikely to work either. I would set the bump stops at the correct height and figure out a way to make the latch tighter using the bump stops to hold the hood at the correct level.

SUs can do an aweful lot. An AFR might help alot to know what your fueling looks like. More fuel isn't going to help without more air to burn it.