Patcon

I was thinking the same thing. The little clean area along the bottom perimeter of #1 looks like an area that steam might have been cleaning the combustion dome.

That's sort of what I was thinking. Scrape the glass then mirror glaze. Lines are gone...

I would tap it and be done, provided you got enough epoxy in the hole. The epoxy is plenty strong enough to hold the load the M5's can take

I hope they work out great. I love the idea of a power, heated seat. I have always liked the 350Z seats. They are deep and hold you in place really well...I was never sure if they were too wide or not

That was a good idea. I had never thought of running them with out the screws

Zup's buying!!! That is tempting, hmmm Missouri 800 miles need a Z running for that one...

Good find

I looked for a part number but couldn't find it. Someone else might be able to find it. I suspect they are available new. I probably have one if you can't source one...

Looks great!

Just be careful when you polish around sharp edges and details (door waste crease, door bottom, hood bulge). You can protect them with tape until you get the big areas done

Orange peel is another challenge for the DIY painter. We don't normally have the equipment or experience to avoid it. You can run a little more pressure so it atomizes better but you use more material when you do. We also don't tend to have professional level guns that lay down a better finish. The best thing to do is lay down an extra coat or two of clear and wet sand it out.

I would help if I could, but I don't have my system up and running yet. Have you thought about Contacting Norm at Zeddsaver. He plated some stuff for me, he was reasonable...

Loose connection, bad grounds, broker wire? Do you have a meter?

If it were me I would go fiberglass for the whole repair. I think you're right to use some resin to wet down the board first. I would use resin to make the initial repair to the crack and hold it close with screws or some weight over wax paper as a release sheet. Then back up the repair with some light weight matt. I think HR's recommendation for using the door as a jig is a great idea too. Once the initial repairs are done you can remove it and back it up from the back side if necessary. I get a magazine from Epoxy works and they do all kinds of projects with fiberglass and resin. It should do fine for all the repairs you need to make. At the holes I would thin down the board around the holes for the repair. That makes room for the repair material without too much overbuild. Whenever you patch holes in fiberglass you all ways try to make transition areas for the repair, same principle..

You did good! It's hard to do much better than that in a homemade booth. Because you just can't get it clean enough after doing body work. I am sure it will clean up and be perfect after some light polishing

So the stainless would be a really good choice, correct size and no corrosion...

Very nice. Always nice to make progress

Glad you made some progress on the car. Hopefully it will start to get sorted out...

Has anyone "miked" the original cables to see what diameter we are shooting for?

That's tempting...I like beating on metal Mark's idea sounds like a good one too

I would love to come see your shop but it's a little far...

Sorry if I didn't make a complete enough description. I really need to make a thread with pictures to show this technique. Maybe in my spare time on the next floor board project..

Shape the floor pan. It's easy to do. Make a series of cuts in to the floor pan about every 2", closer where a tight radius is needed. Take a heel dolly and round the floor pan to it turn up where needed. Zip screw it in place. Take a body saw or cut off tool and cut the tunnel and floor pan in one pass. Tack it in place and form some more with a heel dolly. weld it all up...

Good! They got there. I hope they work great for you... make small welds and let them cool completely or they will warp

Worn out paint strips easier but I haven't come across anything it won't strip yet...