Patcon

The low vin's are hard to pin a price down on. I would say it's worth half that, but who knows. It might bring 10k with the market the way it is now

Texas car in LA. It also has more than a little rust! Seems like a lot even for an early car, maybe not though. It is still a big project

That most likely means you have problems with your brakes. One circuit is probably not working. Are your stopping distances longer than you think they should be?

Is the pump fully submerged? If so then there is no concern on overheating a restricted pump. Just thoughts. It is quite the pump!

There are certain views of that car that I think are great. Like the side profile view. then things like the front view I don't really like. I also like the exhaust in the center and the wooden dash interior. That's a lot of money with 5 days to go. I would think it would get close to $1 mil

So your taking a 2" discharge and necking it down? To what size? Then adding air at the gun?

Do you have one? Many people are able to clean them up with CLR

I'm 6'5" and have no issues fitting in a 2 seat S30 car.

Bertram, TX I've been through there. My wife is from Fredericksburg. Great area!! Like others have said, you will be money and years ahead to buy the best car you can with the least amount of rust. Always remember with rust, there is at least 100% more rust than what ever you can see!

You have this crew confused with some other group!!!!!

I like the idea of the six speed behind an L series motor. I wonder how the shifter lines up with the stock shifter location?

"the hardware" mostly refers to fasteners and it does include some smaller meal pieces. I have done no work on any chromed pieces. I don't know that I know which pieces are supposed to be black zinc. Although I have a fuel filter holder that I believe has been refinished by a vendor in black zinc. I have up to this point done all of my hardware refinishing on the car I am currently working on. All of which has been yellow zinc and blue zinc, which are both chromate finishes. This question has really surfaced for me due to some health issues that I am trying to run down. If there is cadmium on the car it will dramatically change how I process parts

To make the lip you were asking about earlier, you really need a metal brake. Then you brake the edge up for the seal lip and it stiffens the panel. You can weld a lip on, but it's tedious and easily warped. If I were going to weld one on. I would make it oversized and then cut it down to the right size along a scribed line, so it's straight

That may be where I end up eventually.

Chris or Alan do either of you have any insight on this? @26th-Z @HS30-H

The rebuild kit I am using was $75 from Harmon Brakes in GA off Ebay. I thought about having him rebuild it and I may do that on the next one, but this way I can replate all the hardware inside and out first and treat the rust inside the shell and paint it. If I have him do one, I will break it down for him and plate all the pieces first. Then send it to him for reassembly. Whether that happens will greatly depend on if I have a working booster at the end of this process

Are you trying to recreate the top panel, that is available, or the panel underneath it? It's not quite clear?

Thanks, I struggle to plate larger parts. I do fine on bolts and such, but it is difficult to get good plating on larger or odd shaped parts. There is a plater that is not too far away I may talk to

Rich, The dash looks great! On another topic, when you get all that hardware plated. How do you prevent it from rusting? I thought what you did was de-grease it and strip it. Then you take it to get plated. It seems like it would be prone to rusting while it is waiting to go to the plater.

Those look good. It's an idle issue apparently. I wonder if voltage at idle might be contributing to this. IE weaker spark due to starting with a lower voltage? This might also be due to a spotty wire or wire connection like Mark suspects. Would reducing the spark gap slightly be a bad idea? Less resistance to sparking that way...

I keep finding things that I have misplaced. It's really frustrating! I was looking for the ring that goes on the filler neck. Like this I probably have 3 of them here, but I can't find any of them. So I had a 280z filler neck and I was able to get that off the 280z filler neck. They appear to be the same and the holes in the chassis line up. The rubber is evidently bonded to the metal plate. I took a razor blade and separated them I would like to find one in better condition, but I suspect most of these are dry rotted in a similar fashion to what I have. The rubber portion doesn't look very good but I will reattached it with some black silicone. I plated the metal plate. Now it's ready to reassemble Overall a decent weekend. I also started blocking the car. Hey @Home Built by Jeff you wanna come help???

I also worked on the steering rack this weekend These tags were in the rack when I disassembled it. The were wrapped around the large nut that holds the inner tie rod to the end of the rack. I did not reinstall them Here is the housing with the rack slid into it Here is one of the bump stops. I had a hard time getting these off originally. They can probably be pulled off, but it is much easier to thread them off, once you get them turning Here are the parts layed out of the bench Greased up the pinion and drove it in. This was one of the hardest parts. It seemed like it was difficult to get it aligned with the smaller lower bushing in the housing. I pressed the bearing back onto before installing it, and added the snap ring. I wondered if it would be easier to install the pinion in the hole and press the bearing onto it and into the housing at the same time. that might be asking for trouble. the way I did it is the procedure laid out in the FSM. Once that was in, add the snap ring against the bearing. Then drive the seal into the housing around the input shaft. The next step is to assemble the inner tie rod ends. There is a spring that sits under the concave cap on either end. Then the inner tie rods are installed into the large tie rod nuts. Before threading these large nuts onto the rack, thread the thin lock rings onto the rack. Then thread the large tie rod nuts on. On this rack the left hand threads were on the drives side, so that is the way I put it back. As I was reassembling this, I greased all of it up, which is why there are no pictures of it. There is a FSM procedure for greasing the ends in place. The small holes on either end of the rack are supposed to have a grease zerk threaded into them. Grease them up. Then remove the zerk and install a threaded plug. There were no threaded plugs in this rack. So I didn't go that route. I also missed the instruction about centering the rack before installing the pinion with the bolt scallop up. I installed it almost 180 degees out, but I don't see how it really makes a difference, so it's staying for now. The lock nuts and nuts are 32 mm and it just so happens I have a thin 32mm wrench that is a specialty tool for doing BMW water pumps. It works perfect for tighten the lock nuts. I just sort of guessed at the tightness on the inner tie rods. If I tightened them all the way down, they wouldn't move. So I backed them off and approximated the 10 lb resistance to moving like the FSM wants. I wasn't sure why this was a critical as it was make to appear. Any thoughts on that? Here is the rack mostly together. I sprayed the outer ball joint ends with diamond clear. Hopefully they will stay nice looking for a while. If they don't I will black them with semi-gloss At this point I tried to grease up the rack from the zerk in the bottom of the housing. I have an 18v grease gun and after a little while. I was wondering where all the grease was going. Unfortunately it was going into the bellows on the drivers side. So I had to cut the tie wrap and clean up the mess. That may be the purpose of the threaded plugs, to force the grease into the tube instead of coming out through the grooves on the inner tie rod ball?? The Moog ball joints seem to be fine. Hopefully I won't run into an issue with the knuckles as I know there are two different sizes. the Moog rubber boots, weren't that great. The big end was a good bit too large and you had to cinch them down pretty good to get them closed. I may revisit this rebuild after the car is complete. For now, moving forward....

I worked on that turn signal some more I first joined the piece with the hot wire stapler. They make these staples in various shapes. You melt them in then clip the tails that stick out Then I used a white ABS rod to weld up the crack. I doubt these are ABS but they welded up ok with that rod. I will finish with a little satin white when I get another can

Pedal box is all reassembled with freshened hardware and freshly painted pedals. I was going to start installing these parts but I think I might wait until I get the paint further along