Patcon

I like the blue car the least... YES!

They only got 5-10 days in jail???

@Captain Obvious If you're feeling OCD, you could send me that bracket and bolts during the salt season and I can make it pretty for you!

Paint thinner is used to clean up Aircraft stripper. when it comes into contact with the thinner it becomes very rubbery and is essentially neutralized. I don't think I would try to strip just one layer of paint with aircraft stripper, because even if a layer doesn't come off it seems to be softer from the applied stripper. Mark, I love the look of factory metal after the paint is removed. Just think, that is how the panels looked in the factory 42 years ago! (Give or take)

If the floor boards were rotten then I would be amazed if there wasn't more rust. I would want to see that one in person. Look for bubbles or swelling seams, like under that vin plate. I suspect the flairs were added to deal with issues in the quarters.

I believe a lot of this is misunderstanding and the limitations of communicating through a forum. I dont think zed head is trying to impugn or injure anyone but for all I know he got taken by someone on the internet and is a little suspicious now. We have also occasionally had discussions on altering vins in the past and some people are more ok with that then others. As these cars become more valuable and the production history is so hit or miss it may become a bigger problem. History has shown zed head to always be available to help solve problems. By the way I'm not paranoid if everyone's really out to get me. ?

Be mindful that not all of our members live in the hill country of Texas. We as a forum group have done a good job of not letting politics get in the way of our fellowship and enjoyment of our cars. We have members from all parts of the US and I am sure we are not monolithic in our political views, and we don't need to be to enjoy getting together and inhaling exhaust fumes. It would probably be best to leave posts that include politics or political views unsubmitted... Just my 2cents

500k is a lot of tools. Snap-on makes good tools but you can buy most of those tools 2 or 3 times for what tool trucks sell tools for.

I have seen boxes like this for 3k new. Amazing amount of money

I got a new set of drawers for the shop last Friday. I bought these off an auction site. It's a Vidmar cabinet. They are stupid expensive. I was pleased I got them for a decent price. I already have them filled up. It did allow me to spread some tools out from my other tool boxes. It's like the shop, never big enough! I had to do some minor dolly work on some areas. I am going to build a big wooden top for these and use them as the table base. I'll remount my vise to one corner and mount the two grinders on the back edge of the new top

We got a stereo hooked up in his car this weekend. It's in the glove box for the moment. I don't know if we will move it into the dash or not. It's a full size DIN stereo we had and putting it in the dash would require some cutting I also tried to install this tach. I found an online article that gives a couple of ways to hook it up with a matchbox dizzy. One is inline with the coil power and the other is inline with the blue "C" wire to the match box. It also suggest reversing the connections because it is polarity sensitive. I tried all 4 ways and couldn't get any needle movement. I checked resistance on the inductive loop and got something like 0.3 Ohms and it also rings when tested for continuity. Any ideas on where to go from here? The black from the gauge was connected to the Neg on the battery and the green was touched to the Pos on the battery. I bought this off Craigslist so it has an unknown history.

So I think I made progress on the hatch. I rigged up a slide hammer with a wire loop . I had Cody hold the hatch down while I did the hammering. I did some shrinking with the shrinking disc and I over did it. I ended up with divots and had to dolly them back up some Blocked it all down again. The circled spots are low now. I also used the same technique to lift the vent areas on the hatch. It's pretty thin now. It also looks like the lock will work now. I now have to do some filling and reprime the hatch and block it again with guide coat.

Do they still foul at idle?

What a mess! It's already $5,300 reserve not met Every panel on that car will need work. Cowl is rotten, frame rails, floors, evidently has a sunroof, so roof panel, quarters, everything. At this point you're buying data plates and a minimal amount of metal. I hope it gets saved but I can't see paying that kind of money for this car. Although if it ends up at 100k in 5-10 years I guess that changes the calculus. Still, you better have a good welder and 50#'s of MIG wire

Looks good!

If it wont start with ether then it is either spark or a valve/intake issue. Have you checked compression? If the compression is good, then the spark is suspect

I think I want to avoid using a rust converter because of the possibility of Nitrogen embrittlement. I am hoping if I get it fairly clean I can lightly grease the surfaces to prevent future rusting. I think I will still probably open the cases up to check the oil gutter, the bearings and make sure the dogs look ok. I would prefer to not go further than that.

I have never tried oiling bare metal. It makes me nervous. I try to avoid touching bare metal or body work with my hands to prevent adding oils to the surface. I just have concerns about being able to get all the oil back off the panels.

I might have to go that way, but I would prefer not to break the tranny down that far. I may try a rotary wire brush first to see how it cleans up. I think the splines will clean up. The snout that goes into the pilot bushing might have some pitting though. I think there is a needle roller pilot bearing available. I wonder if that would be a better choice if there is some pitting on the input shaft nose?

Yeah, I liked that stand too. I also like the double staked nut. It looks like he added a set screw to the nut. Staked the edge of the nut and then staked the set screw as extra insurance. That's what experience will do for you.

Be sure and make note of the roof joint thread I started, and follow John's advise on high to install the rails properly. More weld is not always better!

We have a new project on the table. We wanted to have a 5 speed in his car before Zcon but we ran out of time. So we have sourced a transmission. It was pretty cheap but the input and output shafts have some rust on them from sitting in the salvage yard This car didn't have a motor in it. So it was exposed. I plan on trying to clean this up. We'll see The tranny goes through all the gears and turns smoothly but had very little fluid in it. It may have leaked out the rear because there was no drive shaft under the car. The plan it to open up the case and look it over and try to clean up the input shaft. The output is pretty greasy and looks a lot better than this end. I am working on figuring out how to disassemble the two cases. We also had to convince the fill plug to come out. What a pain! It was already chewed up where some one else had tried to get it out. So we started with some specialty vise grips, nope Then we moved on to a large set of channel locks, nope Then we tried a pipe wrench with a cheater. Can get the right access for the wrench, nope. Then I reground the flats onto the plug. tried a 15mm with a cheater pipe, nope. So we moved onto the welder. I took a large nut and welded it to the end of the plug. The welds didn't penetrate and the nut turned right off. So I got a large bolt. Turned up the heat and tried again Then we got out the impact I win!!! Now I will probably have to source a new fill plug. If I can't get the input shaft splines clean. The input shaft available new?

The engine aught to turn fairly smoothly with the plugs out. If it has been a while since it ran, there might be some rust scale in the bores. It is easier to turn from the crank bolt.

That car has been up for a few months now. It would need to be a lot cheaper for me to give a second look.

Passenger side too