Patcon

What is the air dam? It's interesting looking.

I don't know why you couldn't go right over it with color, now that it's knocked down to 400. I think the recoat window refers to running color over color with no sanding in between.

Yes what she said. Roll the car part way out, then pull the drive train. Rearrange and roll the car back in.

Dude!!!! That is super cool.

Truth is independent of perspective. Everything else is opinion, there is only one truth.

Actually the ECU relies on each O2 sensor independently. They are used as much to determine faults and OBD codes as real time fueling. They are also used to cross check each other. Not so much for accuracy but for function. I have found that when it an O2 sensor fails it's dead, not out of spec. So if my wideband O2 fails which it has in the past I get no AFR readings.

I totally understand. I think a lot of that is just experience. Both with stacking paint and knowing how much paint you've taken off. I am not sure any of us will ever paint enough cars to get to the level of experience where wet sanding is second nature and care free.

Your second cut looks much better. Wheee! is right sand then check, then sand some more. After a while you can tell by how your sanded panel looks if you have it smooth enough. It looks like guide coating does. There will be tiny round spots that are not the whitish color that the high spots are. When those are pretty much all gone then it's ready to cut & polish. You can use wax & grease remover to wipe down the panel and it flashes off quickly.

If this is directed at me, I have not run into anyone making them. If I need them I would make them in the bench vise. The new fabricated ones from the earlier pictures have a weld seam down the sides. So you can fold them all up and then weld down the side. That is what I would do if I needed some. Make a stiff paper template first to pattern from

I like the looks of the pan. I don't know if it's in my immediate plans right now.

But a good first post!

The shape in the panel makes it many times stronger than a flat piece of metal. Always remember car companies are always looking for ways to cut costs. If a flat piece of metal would have worked they would have never paid to make stampings to produce that panel.

Have pan ready when you pull and rotate the oil pump, because there will be some spillage.

The dizzy drive turns as it meshes the gear. You have to have it turned a little extra in anticipation of it rotating.

Looks like it's about to turn to a huge pile of mulch! ?

Yes, there is nothing like DIY paint. It will teach you alot. Good luck convincing the wife. I am not super fast at body work, but I have a huge appreciation for what it makes to produce perfect paint. When I go to car shows and see a boat of a car that has beautiful straight reflective lines down it, I know it took hundreds of hours to get there. Those hours translate to thousands of dollars. Which is why I end up DIY. Not only does it take a lot of time it takes a lot of experience to get it that perfect before you lay down color.

Happy Thanksgiving to all my "Diseazed" friends and those I haven't met yet!! Have fun, be safe and enjoy your family.

Ohhh? this sounds like I need more details of that!

You have done really well, considering you are learning on the fly! I try to make a point of shooting the edges really well when I paint. Edges like that always seem to be thin. I don't really know what causes that but I tend to intuitively add paint there when possible. Single stage is a more correct paint for these classic cars, but it can be more difficult to repair flaws. You paint looks really good after the cut & polish!

There is scheduled testing in Missouri!!!

All modern closed loop systems are built around O2 sensors. The fueling is modulated by the ECU based on the O2 sensors. If it didn't work and was unreliable than it wouldn't be the default engine model. Everything from Ford to Ferrari to Bugatti do it this way...unless I am mistaken.

Yes, you should!!! You shot single stage, didn't you? It is harder to touch up, than two stage. The halo you got, was the color good on that repair area? If so you might could have wet sanded the halo out. Then cut and polish

Ok, got it. I would still go at it the same way. Look for places where the metal got stretched and shrink those. If you over shrink an area you can dolly it to stretch back out a little.

Ouch!!! That makes Porsche maintenance look cheap! ?

I am having a hard time telling what I'm looking at. I would hammer & dolly it the best I could, then shrink what ever areas needed it. A propane torch and a wet rag or a shrinking disc and a wet rag. It doesn't have to get that warm to work.