Patcon

Excellent!!! That was good thinking to experiment on the panel to be recoated. I am filling and blocking right now. I'll take wet sanding over that any day.

We had a first Gen Miata at one point. It was like a gokart. Exit ramps at 60 mph, no problem. I will keep an eye out for that Red NA!

Ok we have another episode of "Ugly Welds" So I was looking at the drivers side of the hood and it wasn't right either. So I broke out the welder again, but I ground the primer back further so I wouldn't have to blow the flames out after each weld. A little welding Then some grinding with a 2" Roloc and then some flat file hand work. I actually made a second pass on this side to weld up some of the voids Looks ok now. I ran a coat of fiberglass to seal any pin holes and shape it up. On a different note, I need some feedback from you guys. I was blocking the rocker panels and there is a pretty straight groove near the bottom of the rocker. Is it supposed to be there? It is on both sides and pretty consistent. So I don't know if it's factory or if somehow the car got damaged exactly the same way on both sides. Which seems kind of odd, but maybe. In the second picture, it's the upper shadow line. It's maybe 1/2" to 3/4" from the bottom edge of the rocker where it turns under the car. They appear to run the full length of the rockers. Here is the tip of the day. I use Evercoat fillers. They cost a little more but they sand nice and work easily. Sometime thought the filler is difficult to get pulled out thin enough. Well, one day when I was browsing Evercoat's site trying to figure out the differences in each of the fillers they made. I came across this From what I have found online, it's straight styrene. It has a golden color and you use it to make the filler more flowable. I put some filler on the mixing board. Then you add some honey and mix it up. Then you add hardener, then mix and fill. It lengthens the working time of the filler and the filler has more of a glazing putty consistency. I really like it. I could almost just add a cup or so to the gallon can of filler to reduce it, instead of doing each individual batch.

Sarah, Not only have I enjoyed your post here but I benefited greatly from a thread you had about Z3 roof leaks. Because of that I was able to seal the little seals at the roof corners and get the Z3 much drier. At least as dry as a convertible can get. ? Take care and be safe. Enjoy the ride, however you get there! Charles

I have you verified your fuel pressure at idle with a reliable gauge?

@DoomGazey SteveJ was offering to come help you. He lives not far from Atlanta and he knows electrical!

I have heard the same thing. Although I have no actual experience to confirm it.

Here are some ideas I found in a quick Googling: You weren't joking when you said it's running rich. Standard injectors? Bad fpr? What are you're A/F readings (I don't understand the A/F reading lean.........) If you have a signal or ground problem with the sensor, the ECU is seeing lean, and that's why it's dumping more fuel. Well, if both sensors are giving a lean signal, you have a problem that is most likely electrical. And like I said, your ECU is seeing this signal, just like your meter is, and over compensating by dumping more fuel. You need to find out why your getting a low voltage signal from your 02 sensors. Bad ground, bad wiring, bad something. There should be 2 grounds also. Sensor ground, which should go to the ECU ground pin, 100. and heater ground, that should go to the chassis ground point, like 22,23,94. The heater lead should go to a switched 12VDC source, 69 looks correct. And of course the sensor signal should go to what ever pin the ECU is looking for the low voltage A/F from (57). Got it fixed. The iacv and vsv needed a 12 volt switched source. Runs perfect now. No more miss and pop. Thanks for all the advice guys. More than helpful as always

You may be right. I guess that's good and bad. Fewer VOC's, health issues and more easily changeable. I just love the look of a fabulous paint job.

I hate they cut up two cars!!! and the car is just covered in a wrap??? That kind of obsession with the fabrication and we skip top notch paint work?

That is exactly backwards of the perceived steering weight. More travel per revolution should feel heavier

Thanks for the great write up!

I always liked the Factory5 Supercar. I could consider doing one of those if I ever got caught up on projects ?

Are the steering knuckles the same length between these models. I wonder if they made the 280 cars have lower ratios to make the high speed steering less twitchy?

Thanks

Condensate could be a problem inside the walls too. If you use ridgid foam for insulation it won't be affected by the moisture. It is also very vapor impermeable, so it makes a good air seal and vapor barrier. It would also be something you could DIY to save money if you wanted to. 8' OC, that's pretty far! The trusses were made by somebody and they would have a truss design drawing that would specify acceptable loads for the trusses Eight feet is a long way to go even with metal, especially if you're going to load it down with insulation. I would want R30 as a minimum, preferably R38 or 40 or more. The more you have the more comfortable the shop will be. The ceiling insulation is the most important. The walls are next. I have had sheet rock bow over time from blown R30 on 16" OC (On Center) framing from the weight of the insulation, which is really pretty light. Eight feet of that will add up really fast. The trusses look pretty beefy but I would still want an engineer to sign off on adding the necessary framing, ceiling and lighting loads. If you can't get the original truss company to sign off, you might could get another truss vendor to check the design. Most of the truss vendors in our area use MiTech design software to do truss work. Existing loads, roof pitch, span, member size, and nailing plate size should be enough info to get close. You could also add a truss in between each bay at 4' OC and add a double 2x6 as a post on either end. I would think that would get you pretty close to doing anything you wanted with the ceiling. If you went gyp you would need to strap it the other way (perpendicular) w/ 1x4's @ 16" on center. Or you could probably run metal across the trusses at 4' OC. You would have to make sure the metal could handle the Insulation load.

Type 33 Only 18 produced about $10 mil https://uncrate.com/1967-alfa-romeo-tipo-33-stradale-continuation/

Did you look at tire width per car? That would make a big difference

I wouldn't do the shower because it adds a lot of cost. You could do a little point of use electric water heater to feed the sink or even a washing machine, but it won't feed a shower very well. They make a system that is designed for basements where the toilet has a holding tank below grade. Then a macerator pump lifts the sewage through a 2" pvc to the septic tank. The length of the line affects head height some, but the actual elevation is the bigger issue. From the looks of your layout I think that would be a good solution. You could either cut the tank into the shop floor, put it in the gravel area or even install a small catch tank outside and then lift from there to the house system. They're not overly expensive and have pump heads heights that should work. Just remember, some of this work will never be cheaper than now. Why metal on the ceiling? I think I would prefer sheet rock maybe Type X rock on the ceiling. If the metal isn't really well insulated it will sweat, and having it rain inside your shop will be no fun! Also sheet rock will make a better air seal. The better you seal up the walls and joints, the easier it will be to control moisture. That is an issue that hasn't been mentioned before. I have to run a dehumidifier full time to keep stuff from molding and rusting in my shop. I don't know if that will be an issue for you in your area.

There's an NOS one on Ebay currently https://www.ebay.com/i/382316818276?chn=ps $895

I am sure of that. If I didn't have one to use I think I would find somewhere else to put that money first. It seems amazing to me that such a simple part can cost so much. A new hood is $650 on Ebay a used hood is $400 to $450. A hood is many times more difficult to reproduce than the splash pan. Just my perception

The driveshaft shows as available from Courtesy $109. I think he is also looking for the dizzy too. In addition to the drive spindle

They're proud of that!

I'm a little confused here. You bought these bumpers, correct? What site did you end up buying them through? There were half a dozen listed. Was the transaction Ok? Sounds like they came in a reasonable time

I don't mind the wheel overall. They are not a style that is normally seen on older S30's. Even so, the price is very fair.