Patcon

Turbo charged 1.8L making 249 Hp! 236 ft/lbs Neat car but not very Z like in its styling. More like an Audi

So there's 4 separate pieces in the A pillar?

Can you not coat them with a clear coat to prevent them from dulling out on the lip?

Always nice to have confirmation!

I would consider trying to vary the splice location between the different layers at each corner. It would make the repair stronger. Also be sure and preserve the original leaded joint locations. The chassis needs these flex areas to survive

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I would price out the pieces individually. I suspect you could pull it together cheaper and get paid for the time to do it. Use Rockauto for everything you can. they may even have it all

$150 or so is pretty typical of a rebuild service. I saw 7"ers for sale a while back but they were like $250 or so

Yes, congrats on a good trip. That's a good test for whether the car is solid or not

The soft suspension could be a combination of old bushings and old struts. Most of these bushing are available new in rubber from Nissan. Switching to poly bushings can make it too harsh. Some prefer poly Mushy brakes is normally air but could be swelling rubber flexible lines, failing seals or excess adjustment in the rear drums The combo switches can be cleaned and are getting rare. So if the one you have can be repaired all the better

I believe most of the boosters are available reman'd. Although the smaller 7" boosters have a premium. He could also send it to a rebuilder and have it reworked. I have tried sealing that diaphragm in the past and have been unable to get satisfactory results. Harmon Brakes in GA is one possibility. If the OP is really industrious he could rebuild it himself like in the booster rebuild thread. Reman'd boosters normally come unfinished; the boosters from a rebuilder come looking like new

You need to see if the booster will hold a vacuum. A vacuum gauge will be needed to accomplish this. Many fuel pressure gauges will also measure vacuum. It would be easiest to measure on an idling car. Then engine acts as the air pump. Plumb the vacuum gauge between the booster (the black thing on the firewall) and the check valve. Run the car, pull vacuum down and cut the car off. See if the vacuum holds or drops slowly. When master cylinders look like this, they have generally already leaked into the booster. The brake fluid destroys the diaphragm in the booster making it tear. Reconditioned boosters are available from vendors.

I like those washer sprayers. They look great. Are they NOS?

When I reworked a 5 speed recently that seal was so hardened we thought it might be metal or plastic. I ordered one and was surprised at supple it was compared to what was there

Depends on the kids. My two oldest have seen us sacrifice for them their whole lives and they get it. The younger ones have had it easier and it is harder to convince them that they have it pretty good. Still trying...

I totally understand that!

@240Znomad Kudos to you!!!

"deleted by author" 9hours later

I went looking there and can't figure out how you post needs and parts? Just in the timeline or somewhere else?

Found this by browsing dpangt on facebook https://dpangt.com/2016/10/10/railroad-z/?fbclid=IwAR2xjN7w5_CepcvUnatPyOJrkFhAnniWDrxd5InSt3hGc40a_4q3VNy7nTM This guys done ok with his car ? @madkaw BTW I hope you got all healed up!

I had to Google that to figure it out!

You mentioned fuel and I don't wan to muddy things up but you might consider a bottle of fuel treatment in case you got some water in the last fill up. With the help you already have, you should be able to get this sorted. Just keep trying what they ask and feed the results back.

Yeah, that can happen. They get rusty and then they self demolish. You could get by on points for a while but the electronic distributor is better and hotter. You would need to add the ballast resistor back in with the right coil if you want the points to last. Congrats on getting it to run!

Excellent

They will probably have one at your local big box parts store too.