Patcon

Research where all the typical rust areas are. Check all of those. Not having to smog would be a big deal there because the engine condition becomes a very small issue. Rust damage affects the value tremendously.

As I recall, you have to thread the rod in as you put the handle into the door.

A few pictures might help

I like the 307 better. Since there are no records, only a few of us will know.

Me too

Is the donor from the same side of the car? Can you swap the part from the old door handle to the new one?

I'm not sure. One of our engineers want to weigh in? Tapering it together makes all three pieces act like one but I'm not sure of the forces acting on the area. Tying it to the inner wheel well requires that piece of metal to be in tension to prevent the rocker panel (beam) from opening up. You obviously have the skills to replicate the factory design. I think with out more information I would default to the factory design. They would have done it in a simpler (ie. cheaper) way if it had made sense.

Most of the people checking these cars in weren't even born 10 years after the z was popular. Sometimes that miss helps reduce exposure. I was surprised it got that high before the auction. I was interested in it until it got to $2,000. I would be afraid I would get it here and the bottom of the car would be gone. I don't really want another project but I hate seeing "homeless" Z's

She needs work!

Most of the bushings are available new through Nissan. I would buy them through Courtesy Nissan.

I wouldn't be surprised if the car was worth $5,500. If it is truly rust free, I would rather deal with the quarter damage than lots of rusty metal!

I wonder why they tapered it originally? There must have been a reason

I saw this on Copart. It might be rusty considering how the inside of the hood looks. Although the inside looks really good. I posted it as a reference since it has already run. It was $5600 before the auction started. I would have posted it earlier but Cody was getting his wisdom teeth out https://www.copart.com/lot/30378089/

Start with checkkng the rear drums for being properly adjusted and bleed the brakes. Then provide some feedback

There are some close up pictures here, page 4

@JLPurcell I did a little looking but can't lay my hands on one currently

Bad idea to delete all the vents

Tailgaters!!!!

Does he not have a ring compressor? All of the rings need to be checked for end gap in their corresponding bores. This should have already been done before trying to install them. If he hasn't done this then I would take my toys and go home. I would not replace the cam towers. You would be asking for trouble. Make some simple flat block off plates with a gasket under them. Not too hard to do really

The cam towers look to be the early type. You can see the bolts just sticking out. Someone may have been running both the internally oiled cam and the spray bar. You need to block off the cam tower spray bar locations. Also on start up you need to verify that the cam is oiling. Don't assume it feeds oil out all the holes, verify!

What was the purpose of removing the carrier from the diff?

So those stub axles will mate up to the original halfshafts...

What are you using for half shafts?

The last picture is of the cylinder head. Is the mechanic saying there is a tube missing down the right side of the cylinder head? On the later cylinder heads the valve train is oiled from the internally drilled cam. The little holes in the cam lobes. There is no spray bar on the later heads like on the earlier car.

Turbo charged 1.8L making 249 Hp! 236 ft/lbs Neat car but not very Z like in its styling. More like an Audi