Patcon
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Everything posted by Patcon
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There is either a problem with the lever that trips the switch or you need a switch with a longer plunger. Can you shine a flashlight into the transmission for a look? -
It would have to be slop in the ball joints, at the control arm bushings or the tie rod I believe. Those are the only places I can think of that would allow that type of movement. If you have spring compressors, you could jack it up, remove the wheels and take the spring tension off and see where the slack is. I would think it would be pretty obvious but maybe not.
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If there is slack in the output U-joints then the slack may be in the output shafts and not internal to the diff
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Do the output shafts move when you do that? If they don't move, that is inside the diff. It could be re-shimmed but might not last or it could whine once it's re-shimmed
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Cliff, If it were mine, I would only replace the places in the floor with patches that need it and replace the rusty frame rails. Now if you get it cleaned up and you find a lot more holes I might change my mind but on the car I am doing know that is what I did. I might have a partial floor pan from Charlie that would have the section you need. You would also need to get some frame rails. I'll be in "T-town" on Thurs evening until sometime late Friday Afternoon. If you wanted to try to meet up. I know you're pretty far North of I-20
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That was oddly coincidental! It wasn't me...
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Try to actuate the switch while it's not in th he tranny and see if the lights work
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If you're running carbs, I am not sure I would expect much of a change with the oil cap on or off. Maybe someone else will confirm this
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I believe it prevents oil that might leak out the rear seal from slinging around every where. That's my theory at least
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I suspect they were lacking the boat anchor original mount or they wanted to mount it in such a way as to not interfere with the fuel pump. Your current install is much better in a number of ways
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That doesn't do much for me but I bet it took a lot of work to get it that way.
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Can you turn the AC compressor by hand? Not the clutch part but the actual compressor portion. I am not sure they can be turned by hand but still worth a check.
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Steve gave you pretty good advise on the brake fluid before. If it were me I would use a DOT 3/4 compatible fluid. It won't surprise me if you have a leak somewhere. Many times a number of us are reading these threads but we don't get involved if you have already been given good advise
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It's probably leaking from the rear of the striker arm. If it is; it's not an in car repair.
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Take a better picture of the "pulley" on the lower drivers side of the car. The side view and a front-ish view
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Will the collar on the old drive shaft move over to the new drive shaft?
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$8,300 now!!! Runs in 4 days...
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If you look at the map, that car is West of Wichita Falls. I was thinking it was further into Oklahoma than that. I have a car that was stored for a number of years in the yard. It is rusty in all kinds of areas that are not normally problem areas. Every year it gets harder to save
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The green one's been sitting right there in the grass and snow for 20+ years! I wonder if there is any underside left to the car. Letting cars sit in the grass or dirt seems to destroy them really fast, from my experience
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My suspicion, is someone bought it and shipped it to Ky. Then they got to look it over and bailed on it. Run it back through the auction and try to limit the damage. The "greater fools theory"
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Yes, probably
