Patcon

That was my suspicion on the mileage being low. That's what made it seem odd to me that it needed replacement. Had it been bottomed out at any time?

The lower front end parts are different on a 280z but with an airdam they look like a 240z. The bumpers are different and the tail lights and front turn signals are different. The rear tail lights are the only real difference if you try to make a 280z look like a 240z. I agree with Av8ferg above! Since your in an apartment then I would try to get the best 280z you can that actually runs and drives. Don't buy a car that "runs & drive" but hasn't been driven regularly. Many times people get these cars running again to sell, but they can have lots of problems that can be frustrating to diagnose. The S30 market is very hot right now, even for the 280z. If you find the right car you need to be prepared to go look at it and buy it if it's the right one. If you can reach out to some members local to the car or local to you would be a good way to get educated and help you sort cars. You can also post up cars her for us to critique

How old are they? Any idea of cause?

Everything! If you already have a donor, then I would go with the 240z or the least rusted Z you can find. You are way ahead of most people as you have a selection of spare parts. Do you live in an apartment? You don't need a shop or garage to do most of this work. If you have a driveway and your local government will leave you alone much of this could be done there, provided it won't get stolen.

The other piece of this, is you may need to learn to be your own mechanic. These cars are pretty simple. Most of us on this site are better classic Z car mechanics than most modern mechanics. Also these cars need attention and paying a professional for that gets expensive, and you are obviously on a budget.

The automatic transmission is fairly easy to overcome.

Would be much better to solder them and shrink wrap. Resistance is your enemy in these EFI systems

@siteunseen GL with that!

Start looking outside of Florida and the coastal states. You will have to go get it or ship it but much better to have a lot less rust!

How did you connect the new CTS connector?

A donor is the best bet

I totally understand. That's a lot of money for a complete project!

If I were going to replace the springs I would do it when I did the struts. Although the bounce in the rear probably has nothing to do with the springs. Struts should help that. Most people change springs fo a slightly lower stance. I would suggest Eibach progressive springs. Just be sure whatever fluids you try are safe for yellow metals!

Ten years for me...

Bless you on the shingles! I've had that, no fun at all! Getting the rails adjusted properly in the doors is a big part of the window regulators and not overly worn or broken parts. The car sounds good and I didn't hear any worrisome noises.

@kats Don't you have room for just one more? ?

Just remember Chas (Eurodat) is one of the few resident transmission experts...

Awesome!! You're killing me. Like the tortoise and the hare!! I hate this hard shell!!!

I wonder if the GM tranny fluid would help? It does sound like the 3rd synchro could be a problem. Nice looking car!

He's a "sparkie"

You aught to be able to turn the freeze plugs out and with the head off blow the majority of the block clean. I know Rossiz did something similar and said he was surprised at the amount of gunk that came out. The freeze plugs can be difficult to get out. I have struggled to get them turned sometimes but a fabricator at your level will grind out some interesting little widget to make it easy peasy!

Also be sure they are in the correct locations

There is either a problem with the lever that trips the switch or you need a switch with a longer plunger. Can you shine a flashlight into the transmission for a look?

It would have to be slop in the ball joints, at the control arm bushings or the tie rod I believe. Those are the only places I can think of that would allow that type of movement. If you have spring compressors, you could jack it up, remove the wheels and take the spring tension off and see where the slack is. I would think it would be pretty obvious but maybe not.

If there is slack in the output U-joints then the slack may be in the output shafts and not internal to the diff