Patcon

After trying this a couple of times, you would be better off finding someone who polishes metal for a living. Its not that expensive to have done and it takes forever to get fully polished

How are you feeding the center fuel rail? I couldn't tell

Have you tried to adjust it? I have found many hinges will do this. Even a good pair. Many times you can loosen the bolts slightly and push down on the hood, then retighten them

IMPORTANT! Do not over tighten any jet screws. Lightly seat them and then back them out as desired. You can damage the precision holes at the bottom if you over tighten them!

I was talking about the link to their facebook page

A link to their page would be good too

Good find Mike! I like DB Electric parts and I run their starter on my 7.3 diesel and my John Deere mower

Cool idea

Some people have used chrome tape to refinish the chrome strip on the door card. I believe, trying to remove the chrome strip off the door card will ruin the vinyl

Yeah, not thrilled about the tensioner position with the .047 shave. Slotting might fix that but I was surprised how much the tensioner has to come out to remove that slack

Ahhh pictures...much better! Thanks Zed

I think that is a beautiful engine. Now imagine Jenvey ITBs instead of DCOE's!

You need a decent set of these Then measure one of the valve lobes across the bottom width. Not from the peak to the round end but from one side to the other. That should be the base circle measurement

Somebody seems to think it's worth North of $2000!!! V8 under the hood. Has Cobra valve covers but who knows https://www.copart.com/lot/48074379

@David F In the US most of the laws governing this are state laws. So there is not one right answer and I don't even know what the laws pertaining to this are in Canada or if they are provincial laws or national laws. Here in SC there is no law against rolling an odometer forward, that I know of. It is highly illegal to roll one backward. Now on the broader topic. If you roll one forward far enough to be 00,000, I would expect the law would frown on this too if the intent is to defraud. I have replaced odometers in cars and have tried to purchase odometers or set them close to what I replaced, but pretty much all of our titles for 10 year old cars or older say "Exempt" so the mileage is in "excess of mechanical limits". I think the OP's premise is, if the car has enough money invested in it then it's a "new" car and the odometer should reflect that but in reality I think that is too close to the line. The car is not new and it's not a super low mileage survivor. I think most states would agree and if someone were to purchase the car and make a big deal about it could become a problem.

Standard wrenches really aren't up to the job. Even flare nut wrenches won't do it sometimes.

If you had a good dial caliper you could just measure to determine cam lift. Might be some math here but somebody on the forum can probably help fill in the blanks. There is probably a simple way to determine duration, maybe a dial indicator and a home made degree wheel. That way you wouldn't have to pull the cam gear. Then match it up to the closest Schneider cam specs. Should get you really close

It might go for less than 10k but 3 days out is a long time

Also were you using flare nut wrenches to start with? If not, you will fail 90% of the time. Brake flare nuts are soft. So they are easily destroyed or damaged

These or these, might help If the system is old then all four wheels really need to be disassembled, cleaned and inspected. If there is any rust or pitting in them, they can be difficult to rebuild. If they clean up you can just replace seals and reassemble. This applies to the master too.

Be very careful removing the cam sprocket. If you let slack into the chain the tensioner will pop out and it will require a lot more disassembly!

Put down the brochure and back away slowly...

The factory system probably won't like the schneider cam. Schneider offers a lot of different cams. You will need to try to pin that down further

I thought I would add this here. MSA now sells a gland nut tool. Pretty reasonable and allows torquing https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic07/60-9956

The gap at the very top is normally large like that. There is some inconsistency right above the body line. My way of going at that is grinding off metal or adding weld bead along the edge to build it out. I think I would strip the front fender to make sure what the rear edge looks like