Patcon

You're doing good! You picked 2 of the hardest areas on a z for a stud gun. The end of the quarter is paper thin, which is why the studs tore out and the area behind the bumper has an interal frame rail that can provide an amazing amount of stubbornness to dents. The quarter turned out nice

"Track rats" don't car if it's harsh; only how it turns For me I went with new rubber because I don't plan on thrashing the car...much You could look in the "waking the sleeping beast" thread and see if something stands out to you

Work quick! You can use a rag or some paper towels to wick the oil out of the dampers with out having to disassemble the carbs

That is in really good shape!

Excellent find! Thanks for posting the solution

Wow!!! @motorman7 That's a nice clean looking car with a very clean install under the hood.

the coal slag is probably a lot like sand in some ways. It feeds really well and doesn't clump like sand can do. It cuts quick and leaves a finish suitable for primer I have 3m organic masks for painting. We use the Ellipse mask at work . I would also remove the battery tray. You can replicate the factory welds if you want, but I would never trade hidden rust for factory spot welds

It looks like the whole rear edge of the hatch is gone!!?

Many people prefer new rubber oem bushings where possible. The urethane ones can be overly harsh

A lot of people have used megajolt for a stand alone ignition controller

Super glue is not going to work. I made a metal band that fit tightly around the outside between the plastic and the foam

Be sure and use a good respirator. I like these for dust You don't want silicosis!! I use "black diamond" typically, which is coal slag Also be very careful if you do any of the thin sheet metal. You can ruin it easily! Use as low of a pressure as possible and try not to blast straight on. Shoot it at an angle and remember you are work hardening the panel as you blast it

Does anyone have access to Nissan Fast? I wanted to get the part numbers for the clutches and plates that go in the 1988 300zx clutch LSDiff. Does anyone know of an alternative to the Nissan parts? I know HybridZ had a group buy for plates a few years back I found an online manual for the 88 300zx and it had the differential procedures for testing, break away torque and reconditioning

Are you self performing the sand blasting?

That's why we don't need 6,7 or 800 HP in a Z!

Mark, I thought you might recommend that. I have considered the aluminum parts but they are not quite my thing and it's actually cheaper for me to build it. Chris, I believe those are the ST sway bar mounts. So they will come with the new bar set when I order it any ideas for inspecting the diff?

Excellent progress!!

Philip, I believe this is a timing issue. Carry on... C

So I have been trying to make some progress, even though the paint booth is occupied. So I pulled out my 2 LS differentials. I have done some searching but haven't found the info I wanted. I have a CLSD and a VLSD avaialble complete with drive shafts Here is the VLSD from an 88 Shiro Here is the CLSD on the bench with the driveshafts I want to make up something like this. So I can use the finned cover 2 I tried to contact Savage 42 by PM at HybridZ but never got a response. He said he would post up dimensions in the thread I found this in. I was hoping to get some dimensions for a template, but I guess I will have to start from scratch. So any thoughts on this? Also is there a way to inspect the condition of this diff before I install it?

The tank looks really good

I like the plan!

So was the car originally silver? What color will you go with?

I would expect higher vacuum on a cam with less over lap and possibly less duration I thought the leak down numbers were really good all things considered

You know, you could manually check the ratio by counting rotations to see if it lines up with Philips 3.18

Camshafts could contribute to the discrepancy