Patcon

Excellent!

2 Your earlier pictures are irrelevant at this point. Do it exactly the way I asked and make a picture. Make a picture of the cam, piston and timing if possible too.

Mine works the same way. Power from battery lug to start connection on the solenoid

Didn't motorman7 have an Ebay source?

A screw drive in the spark plug hole will work fine. Don't catch it between the piston and the head. And be gentle around the spark plug hole threads. The piston should be very close to the top when the timing is at 0. You can roll the breaker bar back and forth and feel the piston get right to the top. Thats TDC Camshaft ears pointed up, thats compression stroke

What about trimming the pin on the float valve? A little should go a long way

You need to remove the spark plug to check if the piston is all the way up

I burned mine when I turned 21...

Correct. Be sure and remove the #1 spark plug and verify the piston is all the way up. Dont get sidetracked, just give us the feedback we're asking for

Yes, but they are irrelevant at this time!

The oil pump is not that hard to do, a little messy but not difficult. Dont get distracted Get TDC and make a picture

One step at a time. Get the #1 piston all the way up and timing marks on 0. Camshaft lobes on #1 up. Then take a picture of the camshaft spindle with the dizzy removed

I think it's always a good idea to preoil an engine before firing. All the way up to the cam

When the #1 piston, closest to the radiator, is at TDC the #1 cam shaft lobes will both be pointing upwards. Both valves will be closed. Then take a picture of the drive spindle Don't rotate the engine again until the mechanical parts are all properly installed. Also take the #1 sparkplug out and make sure the piston is all the way at the top when the timing mark lines up at 0 degrees (TDC)

A word of caution, most of us here are old and tired. We have dealt with these issues for years. We have asked you do certain things. If you will do those things we ask, in order and show the results, we will get this fixed. If that doesn't happen the help will dry up!

Nice to see MikeW and that beautiful car!

The number 6 wire can be plugged onto the cap in any location. You need to start by getting the motor to TDC on the compression stroke

Is the needle valve too short?

So the reverse shifter rod has a lot more rod exposed on the end. That seems odd. Maybe that part is reversed. The parts fiche shows all the shifter rod ends being the same

Aren't the slots on the ends supposed to all line up? It looks like its in reverse in that picture

This should be in one of the other threads

Denser gas might have less evaporation therefore more desirable from an EPA perspective. Maybe the gas is less pure, uses a heavier portion of the barrel???

I lack expertise in this area. Maybe Chas will chime in

Your results look very good!

Try to not start a new thread if you already have one going on a similar or relevant topic. It junks the forum up and keeps all the information for solving the problem in one thread