Patcon

Update: They appear to have found my missing hardware, hopefully it's all there Thanks Jim I love Texans so that might be a good option. I also did some wiring of small parts prior to plating. We'll see what I lose and what I don't Chris, Thanks for that! I can get pretty good results with smaller parts. Larger parts can be more problematic. It is also very time consuming to plate in small batches. It would take 100-120 hours to plate a whole car's worth of hardware, that might be low. I was hoping to find a solution for bulk parts and then do some plating at home to fill in around that. It's bad when your DIY plating looks better than the professionals. Sort of disappointing...

I am wondering who everyone is using around the country and how do you feel about the results? It would be nice to find a plater that could handle the Datsun hardware and make it look good but wasn't irritated at helping the hobbyist out. Distance is really irrelevant because the difference in postage is insignificant to getting good plating. I have been trying out a plater in Phoenix who will for the immediate future remain nameless. I have been less than impressed!!! I sent a package out weeks ago. Got strung along with they're almost done, almost done for the last couple of weeks. They called and took payment last week and I received a box today. The parts are ok looking and will probably work but the bigger issue is I'm missing about 25#' of miscellaneous nuts, bolts, washer, etc.!!! We'll see if they find them...If they don't I'm screwed

I would think $100 is more than fair but I'm unsure a out the interchange...

I would think in a support role the electric pump would flow even more because the mechanical is helping pull somewhat

You can unscrew the bleeder all the way and hand thread a small drill bit in and clean out any gunk that way

Not worth the effort. I dont believe you would be able to tell the difference even on a dyno

Might be able to calculate it based on the FSM test

Have you checked voltage at the devices?

That is one of my objections to the flairs. Many times to run them you have to cut the wheel arches all up. Then try to weld them closed to keep water out of the car. That just doesn't seem like a good decision for a car that is likely to appreciate a lot in value in the next few years.

Nice Goon! I could do without the slammed bags look; it would be nice to find a limited slip diff like that though!

$68 seems like a really good price for a sub 1000# car in pretty good shape. Could be some unknowns going on behind the scenes like Zed said

Cody especially!

Im ok with the babying part to some degree, but I agree on accelerating and decelerating to set the rings. The idle part wouldn't be my choice. What kind of warranty is he offering? Motors are motors. His shouldn't need a special procedure compared to someone elses. @Diseazd What is yours or Eijis preffered break in method?

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/

Facebook market place

Hard to get the humor on the forum sometimes...

Maybe someone found the tracker and stuck it on one of your cars I think like many things, trackers are a get what you pay for item As for the 44 mag, I live in a very law enforcement minded community but lethal force in a theft situation is gonna get you in some serious trouble.

If you can get yhe other bolts out, then you might be able to rotate the housing by hand and pull it off the fragment . Then the fun begins

What kind of rpm do you need to hold?

Great video! I forgot I'd seen that before Picked up 2.5% with ignition upgrade 5.7% with EFI At the end of the video in their summary, they say that the numbers don't tell the whole story. Mid range power is better. Drivability is better. Sounds better and fuel economy should be better. That all sounds nice

My understanding of ITB's is there is only a butterfly at each bore the same way a DCOE would be. There is a map sensor and a throttle position sensor. Using those inputs as well as rpm a fuel map determines fueling. No MAF used. I agree that fuel injection was developed for better economy and broad range drive-ability. I also believe that all out power is better produced with fuel injection. Atomisation is much better at 40-50 psi than 3-4 psi. It would be interesting to see some dyno work using the same engine from carb to FI Somebody like Eiji probably already has this info as he sells the Jenvey ITB's

Not only that but I can set up a fuel table to fuel at different levels across a myriad of throttle positions and refine that fueling based on O2 feedback. Fire right up when cold and idle perfectly without any choke. Anecdotally, I would think if carbs were superior then somebody, anybody would still be installing them on new cars... Now, don't get me wrong, I like carbs. I have SU's and may run some triple webers, but if I get an opportunity to got ITB's, I will and not look back

I would expect ITBs to surpass all carbs. Fuel injection is almost always superior to carbs if tuned properly

Lot's of jetting in DCOE style carbs. Somebody really familiar with DCOE's might get the jetting pretty close first try but I would try it. Much less getting them balanced on a break in run. The nice thing about SU's is their simplicity. Mixture is easy to fatten up or lean out. I will violate religious protocol and say I'm not sure how critical a continuous break in run is. I have broken in a number of engines and never had a failure due to the break in period. These engines are incredibly tough...

The way car prices have been going, possibly It's not a super low number (sub 1000/500) but still an early car. It really depends on how rusty it is