5thhorsemann

What year car? I may have what you need new in the box.

I had to replace one, when I saw what a pain in the arse it was to replace, I went ahead and installed the Halogen housings that accept the newer style bulb only. Then I put a set of GE blue bulbs in it. Lights up the night now.

Look at the pic's above, your safty latch is indeed angled towards the front of the hood. there is a stop on that latch, I'll bet it's bent or gone altogether. There is no reason to have that latch on the hood at all, unless you regularly drive 100 mph in reverse. do what I did, get rid of it.

Be aware that the bottom tank will be your first point of contact with mother earth if you don"t make some sort of skid plate or guard.

Garage kept one owner like new condition

Thats B.S., CFC's create Ozone as fast as they destroy it, they are catalists. Dow chemical lobbiests created this rumor to get congress to outlaw the chemical family in favor of their new green refridgerants back in the 70's. Halon is very close to R-12 and is the only extinguisher agent currently used by the U.S. military. They made it unlawful to Mfg. in the U.S., so we import the stuff at a greatly inflated price from 3rd world countries as a recycled product. Your tax dollars at work. You pay a guy to pump your system only to buy back your own material when paying him to replace it. It's a racket.

This is what is in my 73 240, holes line up but you must remove the splash pan to make it fit, holds roughly 1 qt to 1.5 qts of extra coolent. P.S. it's an automatic radiator with the tranny cooler ports, no need to plug, just add rubber dust caps and you're set.

How bout "over $10k invested, asking $7500" Not a very good investment.

It's sand paper, don't think you will get much for that.

I like the remove the bumper idea. They are huge. At least try to early 240 bumpers.

At this point the vehicle service is scheduled for when I get to it. Good point on the pitch, it is quiet, meaning I don't hear a differance in noise on the compressors, But they are loud as hell from the git.

I look down at the right side white line for the oncoming, this keeps pupil dialation to a minimum, and try to drive faster than the follower.

No, It actually sits 0.25" up.

http://www.fennerdrives.com/high_performance_composite_vbelts/hpc_vbelts.asp?gclid=COut9fHnt6cCFYbb4AodHHOW_A I went to Grainger this morning to get maintenance parts for my shop compressors and they gave me a sampel of this new link belt material to try out, the Power twist plus. (link above) They claim longer belt and bearing life, among other things, so I figure, WTF, I'll try your free stuff, right? So being a tinkerer, I snaped the fluk meter around the power supply and started the motor with the old, but not badly worn belt. It read 7.65 amps at start up, and dropped to 5.25 amps at run. Then I put the PTP link belt on. A snap to install, literally, and it looks really cool. BEFORE changing the air filter or oil, I start the motor and the meter reads as follows; 7.14 amps at start up and 4.98 amps at run! Thats like 6% at start and 5% at run reduction in power consumption. So, I'm thinking of switching over the car and truck belts to this new product when I do the spring services on them. You have to check this stuff out, it"s really neat, and you can carry a few spare links in the glove box, if the belt brakes on the road, you can repair it and install it WITHOUT TOOLS! I am totally impressed.

Find a bolt with the right thread pattern and thread it into the knob with some thread locker in it. After the thread locker cures remove the bolt and put it on the welder. The residue will make the knob tighter. Make sure the clutch washers are in place and not binding or burred. That fixed my Miller"s drag problem.

235/14 on 8 " rims all the way around. Steering at low speed is a bit tight, and I do get some tire rubbing at times, struts and springs will fix that, but it handels great. It's a 73 240Z.

This is an extension of a recent thread. It seems to be the agreed upon opinion that urethane is the way to go for a bolt on spoiler. I however am looking to mould the shugar scoops, fenders and spoiler, while shaving the running lights. I also want to rid the car of it's bumpers and go with the gaping mouth look. Therefor I had to find a fiberglass air dam to make it easy on myself. Seems like the most compelling reason for urethane is the ease of repair and it's forgiving nature, when it contacts curbs, speed humps and such. Most of the urethane parts I've seen flex and buckel at high speed, and will need some braces installed to combat this. This pic won't help with your project, but WTF, this is sort of what I want to end up with. Less the moulding required.

I don't think the bumpers are in any way effective on a S30 anyway. A hit in any way will do big time damage to these cars. But we all should have known this going in. Built to drive not crash. BEW thanks for the info Venus. Also, a nerf bar is any aftermarket bar on a vehicle these days. I had a bronco and the step bars were called nerf bars. A cool word for the advertisers.

Venus, who did the body work on your car, and how long ago?

this one is pretty good too.

That second condensor under the coil, is that stock? mine doesnt have that. Of course I installed the pertronics electronic ignition, but there was only the distributor condensor. Try loosing that rascle and see if she fires.

I drove one some years back, was not impressed. Handled poorly (for what it was intended to be) and frankly, was a dog power wise. (again, for what it was intended to be) History is a good place for that car.

No that is just the best use for a delorian, what a P.O.S.!

Think he just posted the wrong pic, these are the cobra tee bars

Got pics? Oop's, didn't see the pic's first time around, nice car, my bad.