5thhorsemann

I can tell you on the after market system that I removed from my 73 240 there were no sensors or failsafe devices in the wiring or plumbing. I use the older style 2-70 AC now. (2 windows down and drive 70 MPH)

Position the clip in the slot onthe handel and push the crank over the spline on the regulator. Done.

McMaster Carr has the bushings. I think the bushings I got from them were brass though.

B a d - a $ $

thats dead on 10% variation, I didn't look up wear limits, but I don't think thats enough to neuter the motor.

search the relay circut herein, that will solve your polarity and voltage issues.

no to draining the tank to check your filter. You think you have half a tank, but no gauge. Read this http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42135-Car-won-t-swallow I just went through a similar issue with only getting a half tank off running out of fuel. Could be your trouble. Drain your tank and start by seeing how much fuel you can get in the tank from jump.

Try LOC-LUBE first before getting out the BFH, me thinks

The spring is off of a fuel pump nozzle, from a gas station, I found one in an old 69 Nova. the pre unleaded cars could get the spring past the filler neck rim unlike the new ones.

I wouldn't put a Dunlop on my sons trycycle. Based on past excperiences with their products, they are junk. I had a set of Yokohama Advan Neova AD08's on my 350 and loved them. My 2 cents.

I know it has nothing to do with the subject, but as a coincidence, a friend of mine's son bought a 240zx last night and it overheated on the way home. Long story short I went and looked at the car. Blown head gasket. The PO stuck a potentiometer in the temp gauge circut to dial down the gauge to get the car to sell. Buyer beware.

PM me, I have a plotter and can make whatever you want.

When you say "standard su's" does that mean flat top's? If you already changed to the round top SU's you don't need the electric kicker pump. That was a recall item to combat vaporlock.

Using The pearch remnent to support the sleeve would be sweet, I HOPE that works out. BTW the flap disks rule, I bought 3 fresh disks last week just for this job. I'll use the plasma cutter to rough the perch out and clean it off with the disks.

No sectioning is required, but I am removing the spring perch and adding weld rings although they are not required. (yea right) The rapture got in the way of this weekends planned install in the form of 3 acres of foot tall grass, took like 10 hours over two days to mow it.

Thats the first vote for both that I've seen so far, I like it! BTW Blue, thanks for getting rid of the freakish avatar...........It was creeping me out.

Beating on bearings is not something I would recommend, or tell anyone about after I did it.

did you find what the sensor does?

I've just spent the last two hours searching posts for this very thing as I plan to do this job over the weekend. It's a mistery, I've read used motor oil, lite grease, and none at all (which seems to be frowned upon) From what I've read the benifits are 1) heat transfer, which lends itself to the use of motor oil. And 2) Ease of future removal of the cartredge, where grease wins. I didn't see ATF discussed. I am going with the grease, and a new O ring and gland nut. FWIW

Seems to me it would be one way or the other.

Looks like you need to find the AC compatable unit. I don't know about your application, but I THINK if you use thas one, the AC compressor will run ALL the time when the heat is on. The sensor disables the AC clutch, again I THINK.

You can do one of two things; 1) replace the FL with the correct replacement part 2) substitute with any other style fuse component and buy a good towing insurance policy, then cross yoour fingers that it dosen't leave you in a bad cell.

First, always include year and model. second start by bench testing the switch before you go for the wiring harness,this is very important when trying to figure out what the PO has done to (you and) the car. Test continuity thru the switch in it's various positions to ensure the switch is good and then you can eliminate it as the problem. Once you have reliable switching check your circuts one at a time using first the FSM and second by tracing PO added circuts. My GUESS is that the switch is bad, or the PO wouldn't have gone thru the trouble of butchering the wiring in the first place. BTW, that picture shows almost nothing, and nothing of use to help us help you.

If anyone is intrested, I have a sign shop. If any of you guys need parts for your signs, like lighting parts or a set of changable copy letters for the sign above, I can help. I can also reproduce damn near any window or body panel graphics or decals that you get your hands on. Not trying sell anything here, just giving a place to start if anyone is looking for help.

Just bumping to whats new. Bought the strut bearings and bumpers, springs and sleeves should be here tomorrow. I want to do the rears this weekend and don't want to leave the car down in my shop. Any parts I missed and need to get?