5thhorsemann

On the flat boss below the head casting.

Why did you smash the wind sheild? They come out fairly easily. Was it broken and you were in need of some stress relief?

Is that a rally badge on the grill, if so from which race?

Today at the 7-11; Is it a 280Z? No Its a 240........ How hard was it to take the back seats out? I made them into fold aways (pointing out the slit in the carpet) Wow. that looks slick. Thinking to myself, MORON..................

. Six of one, half dozen of the other. If you have the right pump and properly protect the lines, I see no problems with either setup. FWIW, a carb (on a "normal" street car) needs only a slight amount of fuel pressure to run at reasonable RPM's a few pounds of pressure is required only at high speed. The return line has a capillary hole to maintain a tiny bit of pressure at the bowl inlet to maintain idle, the rest of the fuel flow is returned to the tank, the pressure mounts as RPM's increase to combat the dreaded VL. At some point the return flow will max out due to the capillary hole, but VL is not a problem when the car is moving forward at speed as the air flow through the engine compartment keeps the gas cool.

I wouldn’t recommend applying a clear coat to the wheel after you polish them, it is really difficult to get rid of all the polish residue to get good adhesion on the clear coat. That’s why I finish with mothers aluminum polish, it seals the casting and lasts for months. As I recall, my rivets are cross peaned and it would be a PITA to remove them.

Awsome finish product, but our wheels have those rivets around the center, which do not come off. So unfortunately, we are stuck sitting next to a big fat tub of elbow grease. I used the tal-strip a pressure washer to remove the clear coat, a pneumatic die grinder with a 3" buffing wheel and various grits of wet sand paper and rosin and finished with mothers and Budweiser. (more bud than mothers) On my pickup, it took like 2 hours a wheel, but they had a mirror finish and it is easy to keep up on.

Awsome finish product.

There are lots of things people use, carb cleaner, WD40 and the like. I like the propane and map gas because I dont have to hose my motor down with liquids, most flamable at that. Torches are cheap and very usefull tools.

If you are going to do it, now is the time, before you get the meats mounted. Use tal-strip (spray can type), the clear coat will come rite off. then use standard polishing techniques to bring up the shine. Also, make sure the tire shop puts the ballance weights on the inside of the wheel.

So are you now thinking you have a manifold leak? Use a propane torch, do not light the fire, start the car and slowley fog the intake with the gas while noting any spots that change the rpm.

Check out the tire rack site, they have excelent info and prices.

I agree, the 235 will not fit rite on the 6 inch rim, I think 215 or 205/60 is as big as you can go on a 6".

Mine are 14x7, by lighter, I mean they are thicker, not as many empty spaces in the mould when they cast the centers. Could be that they cast them heavier to accomodate the wider rim and deeper offset. But they definetly are different than what I have.

Nope, Not westerns, must be the american racing wheels. They look like the castings are ALOT lighter than mine. Thanks for the pic. With the fat tires it handels great, a little tough to steer in parking lots though.

$4200 is a little high for a 21 year old car with 200K miles, beat him to death on price, if you can get it for around $3K (in really good condition) go for it. With the economy where it is, nothing is moving fast.

If the drive shaft spline isnt fully ingaged, that could slip in one direction only if its worn, ust a thought, not real knowlagable on tranny drive shaft swaps.

My springs were mush, I did the fronts, then got slammed with work. Work load lightened, and I turned around and broke a few ribs. I actually drove the car for the first time today since hurting myself, but I'm still weeks away from being able to do the rear suspension. So, the rear of the car is still very loose spring wise, and when I hit a hump, dip or big bump the rear tires rub ever so slightly against the return, or lip of the quarter panels. Can you post a pic of the back side of your wheels, I was told that mine were westerns by the mechanic that mounted the tires, but I have no actual documentation to back it up. I'd like to see if the casting marks match up.

Western wheel "speedster directionals" The caps are not original to the wheels. I put 235/60R14 tires on all the way around and experienced rubbing till I put the new Stiff springs up front. The back still rub on big bumps but no longer on curves. The new springs will fix the rear rub when I get healthy enough to install them. They look really good when they are shined up. Hope this helps.

The bearing would be grinding in reverse as well as forward. Also, I think reverse and first share some cogs. Was the rear replaced too? What else is mismatched?

So ti goes into gear then grinds? Or, is it grinding going into gear?

It's silica, someone was running strait tap water through a leaking cooling system for a while. If you are on "city water" as apposed to "well water" or use alot of water softeners you will find the same stuff in the bottom of your home water heater. It is water soluable and will flush easily.

That is a major no no. The ceramic insulator is abrasive, it will pick up metal from the bristles and become conductive to an extent weakening or killing the spark. Replace them before going any farther, sorry I can't add any other input to help with the fule issue, I don't know a hole lot about these EFI systems, but the plugs aren't helping matters.

BTW, I've never had a problem with a fuel pump getting hot, warm to the touch perhaps, but hot, not.

I wouldn't go so far as to say that, I've done it (dead headded) several times with Carters, Holleys, Faucets and others, always with good results. Note that they were all internally regulated. But, if the return plumbing is all there and in good shape, I would use it.