cozye

Probably about the same. The MT gets about 1mpg less under normal driving due to being all time 4WD. I would think that the MT would do a little better towing, since you may be able to leave it in high gear. The manual suggest leaving the AT in (4) instead of OD when towing. It knocks the RPM's up slightly, but the motor doesn't work very much and the only time the truck will downshift is if going into a pretty steep grade. Under most interstate driving it stays in 4th and doesn't switch. I've probably got about 15k miles of towing on mine.

I've put the ATX Mojave wheels on it and that's it. I mainly use it for a daily driver and to tow my 6x12 enclosed tandem axle trailer to motorcycle races. It tows real well if you ever have the need. Only gets about 11mpg towing a big trailer at 75 mph.

Thanks. They do look very good. They will be great for my application. If I were building a show car I probably would have sourced some perfect OEM bumpers and had them show chromed, but for a "driver" they are perfect and corrosion free.

Thanks. The FJ is great. I've got 90k miles on it so far and it still like brand new.

I did final fitting of these over the weekend. Some of you guys asked for some pics out in the sun. I will say that I did notice that some of the mounting tabs were off by a few mm's, however this was not a huge issue for me as I had to one of fabricate everything to fit to my 78Z anyway.

Almost there. Only have a few more small dings to take care of and cleaning up the grill. Will start trying to find a local painter to spray it for me soon. Spent this weekend doing final fitting and adjustment of the bumpers, so that when I do get it painted everything will be ready to bolt right up.

Looking good! I'm almost there myself.

Based on those pics, you've got something else significant going on. All of those plugs should read approximately the same. The black ones are running way to rich. The #6 is a huge miss.

I got the lights very quickly. I finally had a chance to try them out. They fit great and are a very noticeable improvement. Super price as well. If anyone is thinking about this upgrade, jump on it and save yourself some money. Thanks again!

Looking good. I like the original wheels and covers as well.

FWIW, my State Farm agent told me that as soon as I'm done with my "restoration", get an appraisal from a third party collector car appraiser, document it and come back to them. He told me they will write the policy for the fair replacement value as an antique car. This is what I plan to do. Right now I just have liability on it until it's closer to completion.

black is faded out of the center of the wheels as well. I think the car has been painted. The rear tail light panels are way too faded to match that paint. They should be quite a bit darker than that.

There are 1 or 2 bolts on the bottom that might be covered up with putty from the factory, and are most likely rusted all to hell. I just took my fenders off and kicked the bottom off since it was nearly rusted apart anyway.

FWIW, Nissan is still selling the original fenders. I was able to talk them down to $310 each. Get them from a local dealer and you wont have to pay shipping.

Looks like after market fenders to me. The rust that's coming through on the outside will have to be cut out and metal replaced, or replace the fender. They make weld on patch panels you can use, I've got some that I don't need.

no such thing as good cheap injectors. I just had all 6 of mine serviced, flow tested and "refurbished". However one of mine must still be leaking as I'm still having the hot start issue occasionally and I've ruled out all other sources of leaks in my fuel system, so one ore more are still leaking. I just bought 6 new ones from MSA for about $300. I wish i wouldn't have spent the $100 to test and "refurbish" mine.

not so fast. Sounds like it's running rich. Perform diagnostic on fuel system, I would start with the water temp sensor, cold start valve, and thermotime switch. the motor doesn't die from just sitting all winter. More than likely something in your fuel injection system has gone bad. Full diagnostic procedure is in the FSM, you can do it with an ohm meter.

Good tip. Thanks.

Interesting. I considered adding a support anyway. Just out of curiosity, did you add a flex agent to the paint ? I had heard that the urethane air dams would flex some, but I was actually kind of surprised on how this one seemed sturdier in the middle than I would have thought.

More progress. This was done a couple weeks ago, I'm actually working on the drivers side now. Very close to getting all the major repairs done. Also the air dam is a urethane type 1 I purchased from MSA. It's just clamped up in the pic for mock up, I haven't actually mounted it yet. The passenger side "pocket" behind the original fender was quite rusted. I had to cut a bunch of it out and fabricate new metal in behind it. I just picked up some 8mm nuts from lowes and welded those in behind the sheet metal for the fender bolts. Also, the new Nissan fenders fit pretty well, but they do take a bit of tweaking. The tab that bolts on behind the windshield was off about a half inch. The reinforcement on the back side was tack welded too tight and has the fender bowing out about 1/4 inch too much, I had to drill out the welds and loosen it up a bit before welding it back. Overall it did fit as well as the original.

If you like 2+2's and you are good with a welder, go for it. Looks like it's been painted before, like someone bondo'd over that rust on the bottom. the 2+2 car's aren't that desirable. I would have to be attached to that car to fix it personally. If you want a 2+2, there is one close buy for sale that I could stop and take a look at for you. Seems to be pretty clean on the drive by. It's in ballardsville.

FWIW, you can still get new fenders from Nissan. If you decide to go the patch panel route, I've got two brand new patch panels I'll part with.

Keep it white. Not only will it be a lot cooler to sit on, It's more unique and correct for your car. FWIW, my 280 has a white interior, but came with black carpet.

Looks like quite a bit of rust in area's that are easy to see. What about the area's that aren't easy to see? Like frame rails, wheel wells, tc rod mounts etc ? My 280 has a LOT less rust than that, and I've spent several months already cutting it out and repairing. Just what you are showing I would estimate an easy 300 hours of DIY repair work.

fwiw, when I had my coolant temp sensor unplugged, it wouldn't idle at all and I could barely get it to run. LIke already mentioned though it could be loose or corroded connection. you can test the sensor with an ohm meter, the values are in the FSM What temp thermostat did you replace it with ?