Shade133

its possible. if all else fails take it to the driveline shop you got the drive line balanced and have them check it again

i was just reading the manual and noticed that it said the floor temp light is ONLY on california models.. could this mean my car is a california car and if so does that mean i have extra smog crap on it vs it being a arizona car? like stuff i can cap off or remove and still pass emissions IT also says that only california model cars came with a cat converter which mine has one.. this is in fact the 78 280z model manual

mine is all broken. it is broken in 2 pieces right by the ash tray.. and my storage console is rock hard and it hurts to put my arm on it .. plus i hate driving with a soda between my legs. ill be sure to buy that in the future

ya i am pretty familiar with how cars work (no where near a good mechanic as im still learning a ton every day) but ive owned around 25+ cars since i was 17 (im 22 now) and ive had to work on every single one of them i was a very big 4x4 guy so i know a ton about 4x4's and other trucks. as for cars the datsun 280z first one i owned was the first car i started to tinker with and actually be interested with.. ive had 3 other vehicle with i6's in them. a 88 BMW 325 2.7ltr, a 88 jeep cheroke 4.0 ltr and a 97 jeep wrangler 4.0 ltr all fuel injected and they are alll way different plus ive never had to really work on the engine on them. I do need to be familiar with this fuel injection system because i love the fact that its real fuel injection that isnt super computer controlled. i really want to adjust my TPS correctly because on my jeep cherokee that thing made the WORLD of difference in how it ran.. but my problem on my 280z is i can mess with it and it hardly makes any noticable difference. plus with the TPS on my jeep i could adjust it with a volt metor. i just with i could take the dizzy out and move it one tooth in the right dirrection like you can on other older vehicles.

welcome to the club and where in northern arizona do you live? i have a ant in rimrock by sedona and ive been thinking of having her register my car so i dont have to smog it

very inportant question!!!! does the clock work? and I WANT THAT CENTER CONSOLE

ok but that to me doesnt make since why does the HC apear good when its under a load and driving when the vacume advance is wouldnt the HC be even worse if thats the case?

ya. my bad .

ok see thats what i was wondering. if timing could make just the hydrocarbons sky rocket at idle. because the if its under a load. the vacume advance kicks in and it could correct the timing enough so it lowers the hydrocarbons? so if i think about it right, if the timing is to retarded its firing to late and if the vacume advance isnt kicked in at idle it will leave un burned fuel in the engine right?

look at it this way. your engine is moving at 3k RPM. when it goes through your transmission the rotation of the drive shaft coming out of your tranny is obviously not 3000 RPM. and once it goes through your differential your 2 rear drive shafts will turn at the same speed as the tires. so if it only changes with RPM. (and load seems the un likely issue here since the noise is a somewhat noise like you have a buble or wabble tire/wheel out of ballance? if im picture the noise its like a "WOM WOM. WOM. WOM. WOM WOM WOM" changing from fast to slow depending on speed right? well since your going the same speed but only changing RPM's that leaves the tranny and the rear drive shaft. rear tranny bearing maybe is dry and is litterally about to go out. or maybe your drive shaft being shortened and balance needs to be balanced WITH the u joints on (which is how i thought they always did it) its definately not an issue with tire or rear end or the 2 smal drive shafts if it changes with RPM. so your right thinking it might be the rear drive shaft going to the diff from the tranny. but it could also be the tranny to. or maybe its just how the ZX tranny's sound . i cant give any further info without knowing the condition of the tranny, as if you fully rebuilt it before putting it in or took it from a wrecked car that had good miles or what.

haha that is probably true. in california i always worked on my cars outside because i hated how stuffy and how a garage would get.

ah i hate the title issues. why couldnt he get it notorized? was it not in his name? when i get paid im going to replace every vacume line i see with new ones just because. whether they apear good or not. and go over my intake setup again.. as to i probably did it wrong the first time or there is a spot leaking after the mass air flow sensor.. the only reason i wanted to take it to the mechanic in the first place was because i was concerned about the timing issue. how if i use a timing light and hook it to spark plug #1 i cant see anything unless i unscrew the dizzy and turn it clock wize at least 30 degrees. then the mark will show not yet reaching the 0 degree mark but the car will die if i go any further. it seems to run good where the timing is at now even if i mess with it.. but if i advance the timing by turning it counter clock wise it runs like crapola. so i only got about 3 degrees of retardation to play with for it to work good.. i planned on replacing all the vac lines and sesnors anyways.. i like to do this on any car i get that i dont have complete history of whats been done. for all i know this isnt even the original engine, or maybe it was built with a cam hell if i know. all i know is when i get it to have good driving power its a tourqie bastard and halls arse.

is this story true? was it really just some dude with a crazy dream about the car he wanted his Z to be and he actually did it working on the street at his appartment complex? that sounds like me. people always look at me crazy when i work on my car in my parking stall .

wellll here in phoenix, you have to smog test a car 1967 or newer. also newer cars (i think if its under 5 years old) you dont have to smog test at all. but here in arizona there are only a few counties that have smog rules. (major cities) you have to smog your car even if its registered as historic. you only have to smog every 2 years. and smog goes with each new owner without having to retest until the 2 years is up.

thats a good way of doing it

ya i read. i signed up to the forums but my account hasnt been activated yet by the admins.

Dale at fairway auto in phoenix

i dont know, im not a professional restorer but i can see roughly in a worst case senario it costing that much. depends on how good of a salemen you are ive sold cars worth 200 for 1000.

they have a fee to join their club of 40 bucks. i might have to invest

oh sweeeet. thanks a lot.

that is true. didnt think to much about that reply.

that is a question i can call the emissions shop and ask. they have already done a visual test on it the first test and didnt even visual test it the second time even after i told them i replaced the exhaust and intake with aftermarket.. so we shall see. i just have a feeling im going to have nothing but probs with my fuel injection due to it being so old and it can be really annoying trying to figure everything out and pricey at the same time. as this in a future is going to be only a track car/weekend car. i feel carbs will be ideal.. as i can easily adjust them and buy new carbs, slap them on and go.. and it leaves a lot less to trouble shoot in my opinion. right now being new to phoenix, i know NO friend wise that can help me like i did in fresno, ca.. where i had my other 78 z running perfectly within a month at low cost. here im stuck to a apartment parkinglot stall to do all my repairs and the car has to stay running and licensed to be parked in the stall :sick:

thats correct. you WILL need to rent a spring compressor to take those off from the struts once dissconnected from the car. autozone and checkers auto will rent you a spring compressor for around 50 bucks for 90 days and once you are done with it, return it and they give you your 50 bucks back in full. no intrest. this in my opinion is the best way to lower a datson without wanting to replace the springs with stiffer lowering springs witch will need stiffer strut inserts.

i know this thread is kind of old. but i had a question that was left un answered. here in arizona you have to emissions test all cars 1966 and older.. and as some of you might know mine is failing horribly with high hydrocarbons. and here in arizona if you look at my post in the help me section they only test HC and CO at load and idle. so im assuming it will be really easy for me to get it running clean enough with carbs. my question is. is my assumption true? i need it to pass with 250 or less HC at load and IDLE and 1.50% CO at load and 2.00%CO at idle. possible? also i would like to know a ball park range of how much doing this conversion would cost.

sorry admins i didnt see there was a huge guide already posted on the forums about this please someone delete this thread if you wish. thanks!